EEVblog Electronics Community Forum
Electronics => Beginners => Topic started by: Morad Tamer on April 19, 2017, 04:03:06 pm
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So I am going to buy a new soldering station which specifically the Pro'sKit SS-989 (I know there is better but it is the best in my country)
With that being said what should I do to extend its lifetime (mainly the Soldering iron tip but other tips and tricks for the Hot air gun would be appreciated)
I know it is tinning but I really never understood what to do
I watch a video of someone doing it
tries it out with out really knowing what I am doing
then watch another video of someone else and he does it in completely another method
What am I doing wrong ? :palm: :palm:
Thanks a lot
P.S here is a picture of how I solder
Am I doing this correct
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/soldering-iron-maintenance/?action=dlattach;attach=309352;image)
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You want to get a Brass wire "sponge" to clean your soldering iron tip. This is way better than a wet sponge.
Pro's Kit has one: Model: SH-1025 http://www.proskit.com/soldering-assy/stands/solder-tip-cleaner?cPath=65_120&zenid=ke6frcfed84khpdf4r7k3cbn11 (http://www.proskit.com/soldering-assy/stands/solder-tip-cleaner?cPath=65_120&zenid=ke6frcfed84khpdf4r7k3cbn11)
You can probably find it locally.
:)
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When finished soldering, apply some fresh solder to the tip. Then wipe that off in the brass wool, then finally apply another generous layer of solder to the tip and turn the iron off.
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If you're coming from a non-temperature controlled iron, I can tell you that tip life is going to extend by itself for two reasons: the idle tip temperature is much lower and you are much more likely to turn the iron off when not in use because it heats up so much faster. I haven't managed to wear out a tip since switching.
I wonder if that iron fits Hakko or Weller tips? That would be nice.
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I avoid wet sponge like the plague! The thermal shock may cause microscopic cracks to the tips reducing heat spreading across it.
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When finished soldering, apply some fresh solder to the tip. Then wipe that off in the brass wool, then finally apply another generous layer of solder to the tip and turn the iron off.
I was doing that religiously for a while, then I started to think... I am spending more on solder than I do replacement tips. For the past year, I have not done that and the tip doesn't look much worn from not having done it.
Now the big BUT. But I am just a light user (hobbyist), and I use the "cheap stuff" from China. A fresh tip is just USD$1 or so. So, my math may differ from many of you.
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That models iron looks like a Hakko 907 clone handle so that means it should take Hakko T18 tips.
With genuine T18 tips (and that means sourced from a legitimate Hakko dealer) you should avoid any foreseeable problems as long as you don't over overheat or thermally shock the plating off the tip.
You can maintain the tip in the following manner while you work:
Prior to starting use brass wool only to clean the tip.
Prior to soldering the joint add only a slight bit of solder to the tip (aids in creating a thermal bridge).
Proceed soldering the joints, pause to clean the tip if required during soldering.
If done soldering and returning the iron to the holder clean the tip and apply generous fresh solder.
If not using the station further switch it off immediately while solder is freshly applied.
Repeat this when soldering.
Some other tips!
When cleaning with brass wool the temptation is to stab it, instead I just wipe it on both sides.
If the tinned portion of the tip is not bright and clean and balls up solder then it's oxidized so it requires cleaning.
Don't leave the tip for long without fresh solder on it, the solder will help protect the tip from being oxidized.
When soldering a joint heat it and apply solder to the joint not the iron, this is proper technique and will keep the tip cleaner otherwise your just loading up solder on your iron and won't get nice joints.
If you have an analog controlled station, or a digitally controlled one with presets you should be able to quickly dial down the temperature, this can be used as a cheap substitute for standby/power saving.
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When finished soldering, apply some fresh solder to the tip. Then wipe that off in the brass wool, then finally apply another generous layer of solder to the tip and turn the iron off.
I was doing that religiously for a while, then I started to think... I am spending more on solder than I do replacement tips. For the past year, I have not done that and the tip doesn't look much worn from not having done it.
Now the big BUT. But I am just a light user (hobbyist), and I use the "cheap stuff" from China. A fresh tip is just USD$1 or so. So, my math may differ from many of you.
Well this won't be the case as the solder I use is 2$ USD while the tip costs me about 5$ - 7$ USD
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That models iron looks like a Hakko 907 clone handle so that means it should take Hakko T18 tips.
With genuine T18 tips (and that means sourced from a legitimate Hakko dealer) you should avoid any foreseeable problems as long as you don't over overheat or thermally shock the plating off the tip.
You can maintain the tip in the following manner while you work:
Prior to starting use brass wool only to clean the tip.
Prior to soldering the joint add only a slight bit of solder to the tip (aids in creating a thermal bridge).
Proceed soldering the joints, pause to clean the tip if required during soldering.
If done soldering and returning the iron to the holder clean the tip and apply generous fresh solder.
If not using the station further switch it off immediately while solder is freshly applied.
Repeat this when soldering.
Some other tips!
When cleaning with brass wool the temptation is to stab it, instead I just wipe it on both sides.
If the tinned portion of the tip is not bright and clean and balls up solder then it's oxidized so it requires cleaning.
Don't leave the tip for long without fresh solder on it, the solder will help protect the tip from being oxidized.
When soldering a joint heat it and apply solder to the joint not the iron, this is proper technique and will keep the tip cleaner otherwise your just loading up solder on your iron and won't get nice joints.
If you have an analog controlled station, or a digitally controlled one with presets you should be able to quickly dial down the temperature, this can be used as a cheap substitute for standby/power saving.
That really helped me a lot
I wonder if you have seen my first thread (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/how-to-know-if-two-parts-are-compatible-with-each-other/msg1187155/#msg1187155) asking the question you just answered which is what tip models does this iron take
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No I didn't see the thread, I don't reply to everything anyway. Yes it looks like a 907 clone handle which was used on the Hakko 936 station and a few other models. It used 900M (or 900L with an adapter) tips when it was being sold.
The Hakko FX-888 station with 8801 iron supersedes that model and takes T18 tips. The same dimensions are used so you can use the superior performing genuine T18 tips instead of the 900M tips.
I use a 936 clone with the genuine T18 tips and get great results, I'm fairly skilled even with primitive equipment but half the battle is good thermal transfer (tip selection) the right temp and dwell time.
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Regarding the quality of your soldering I'm not sure what your trying to solder there, is it a high current track? Buy a few cheap kitsets from China and practice through hole and smd soldering.
Feeding copious amounts of solder on a joint is not the best way to learn, the idea is to use as little solder as possible to get a concave fillet or as close to it as possible. On veroboard the joint will spread out a little more as there is no solder mask over the copper.
Watch the videos from these channels and you will pickup valuable techniques.
Pace video links here and on their channel.
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/basic-soldering-lessons-from-pace/ (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/basic-soldering-lessons-from-pace/)
https://www.youtube.com/user/paceworldwide/videos (https://www.youtube.com/user/paceworldwide/videos)
Marc Siegel and John Gammell do great videos as well.
https://www.youtube.com/user/MrMarcSiegel/videos (https://www.youtube.com/user/MrMarcSiegel/videos)
https://www.youtube.com/user/jkgamm041/videos (https://www.youtube.com/user/jkgamm041/videos)
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Regarding the quality of your soldering I'm not sure what your trying to solder there, is it a high current track? Buy a few cheap kitsets from China and practice through hole and smd soldering.
Feeding copious amounts of solder on a joint is not the best way to learn, the idea is to use as little solder as possible to get a concave fillet or as close to it as possible. On veroboard the joint will spread out a little more as there is no solder mask over the copper.
Watch the videos from these channels and you will pickup valuable techniques.
Pace video links here and on their channel.
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/basic-soldering-lessons-from-pace/ (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/basic-soldering-lessons-from-pace/)
https://www.youtube.com/user/paceworldwide/videos (https://www.youtube.com/user/paceworldwide/videos)
Marc Siegel and John Gammell do great videos as well.
https://www.youtube.com/user/MrMarcSiegel/videos (https://www.youtube.com/user/MrMarcSiegel/videos)
https://www.youtube.com/user/jkgamm041/videos (https://www.youtube.com/user/jkgamm041/videos)
No it is not a high current track
I was just practicing with some piece of bridge wire
anyway thanks for linking the tutorials