| Electronics > Beginners |
| Soldering iron tips |
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| Domagoj T:
If I type into the google "soldering iron tips" I get 15+ million results on how to select the proper tips for you iron, or how to clean it, or different brands etc, but what I was not able to find are tips on how to solder iron. I have several different fluxes available and all but two fail miserably. One of the two fluxes that works is an oily liquid that soils the soldering iron to such an extent that after a single joint I decided that I will never use a soldering iron with that flux again. The other flux that works is a powder for silver soldering or brazing and basically requires the metals to get red hot to activate the flux, which means a butane torch is needed. Unfortunately that is too hot for my needs. I am looking for a flux that can work at lower temperatures, preferably with standard electronics leaded solder and will help make a decent bond on iron based alloys, specifically model train tracks. Usually soldering to rail joners is fine and works, but Marklin K track is resisting everything I've tried (except the two above mentioned). The temperature should be relatively low so as not to melt the ties/sleepers. Any suggestions? |
| garethw:
I use Loctite Rosin core solder and a "No Clean" flux pen for larger jobs. It may be that the track is conducting the heat away too quickly and preventing the solder from joining. Gareth |
| Ian.M:
Getting most solder alloys to wet an iron or steel surface without aggressive flux is difficult. However you cant use acid fluxes, high halides fluxes, etc. because its impossible to clean them 100% from the stranded wire you are attempting to solder to the track, and their residue will corrode the strands up under the insulation and cause rapid failure of the wire. You can pre-tin with an aggressive flux, then thoroughly clean the tinned area and surroundings (and if the cleaning isn't a multi-step process with solvents and then very hot water, it probably isn't thorough enough), then solder the wire to the tinned area using ordinary solder with non-aggressive flux. Alternatively, try applying a drop of strong Copper Sulphate solution to the freshly cleaned iron or steel to 'flash' plate it with an easily solderable copper layer. After a minute or two wipe off with a tissue or disposable wipe, wipe again with a damp tissue or wipe to rinse the surface, dry. and immediately flux with an ordinary rosin based flux and solder. |
| Domagoj T:
--- Quote from: Ian.M on May 26, 2019, 02:50:46 pm ---Copper Sulphate --- End quote --- Thanks, I have some. I'll try it and report back. |
| zomehi:
Hi, If you can live with weak mechanical strength and very very high price then you could look into ultra sonic soldering stations. These are used to solder tinned copper ribbons on steel substrates in photovoltaic industry. The soldering temperature can low as 150C with these stations. Another solution could be to use pure indium instead of Sn based solder. |
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