| Electronics > Beginners |
| Soldering station simple modification |
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| oskimac:
--- Quote from: soldar on April 22, 2019, 08:25:46 pm ---In irons without temperature control it was common to put a diode in series and a switch would short the diode when the iron was picked up. --- End quote --- something to have in mind. thanks. :-+ |
| Old Printer:
--- Quote from: oskimac on April 22, 2019, 02:58:54 pm --- Hi, and thanks for your time! as i said it was my first time asking here and i have learned a few things, don't write details that might distract the main subject of my question. the oxidation, the high temp etc. people keep answering to tose things that arent the real problem. --- End quote --- The thing is, we see new posters say all the time - I know it's not that, I know that's not it.... then two pages later, oh shit, it was that. Most often the obvious gets brushed over because it's too obvious, but 9 times out of 10 that's what is wrong. It really sounds like you are running too hot on a steady basis. If you know that's not the case, a brief description of how you know that, will quiet the people pestering you about the obvious. Welcome to the forum :) |
| KL27x:
--- Quote ---already added a litle relay inside the unit that is activated by the reed switch. i think i should try change the pot resistance value or something but i already try it unsuccessfully.. any help? --- End quote --- This might be slightly difficult to explain. I might have to draw a schematic. The pot is the easiest way to utilize your reed switch. 1. Figure out which direction the voltage moves to turn the temp up/down. 2. Bugger that voltage in the proper direction with the reed switch; one end of the reed switch connected to the wiper of the pot, and the other to ground (or positive rail, depending on the logic/direction) with a series resistor. So when the reed switch closes, the voltage at the wiper is skewed down/up by the pulldown/up resistor. If you had room in there, you could use another potentiometer to "skew" the voltage. There are many ways to do that. You could either use it like a variable resistor and wire it just as previously described, so the amount of temp drop will be adustable. Or you could use a relatively stiffer pot (lower resistance) than the original and wire the wipers in parallel. Then you can use the pot to change the temp up or down, so you don't even have to figure it out which direction does what until after you close the thing up. What you would really want to do in this case is cut the trace off the original adjustment pot wiper and bridge it back with a resistor. Then the reed switch will connect the wiper of your auxiliary pot to the original trace, bypassing this resistor you added. So your auxiliary voltage will largely override the original signal when the reed switch is closed. This is all operating on the assumption that the original pot is producing a variable voltage between DC rails, which the value of this voltage is what is ultimately controlling the temp. But it is also possible that the pot is used in other ways, as part of a ladder, as a variable resistor. In which case you have to figure that out and adjust your game plan. Figuring out what the rails are and seeing if the pot is attached to both power and ground or not would be a good starting point. |
| oskimac:
--- Quote from: Old Printer on April 23, 2019, 02:31:03 am --- --- Quote from: oskimac on April 22, 2019, 02:58:54 pm --- Hi, and thanks for your time! as i said it was my first time asking here and i have learned a few things, don't write details that might distract the main subject of my question. the oxidation, the high temp etc. people keep answering to tose things that arent the real problem. --- End quote --- The thing is, we see new posters say all the time - I know it's not that, I know that's not it.... then two pages later, oh shit, it was that. Most often the obvious gets brushed over because it's too obvious, but 9 times out of 10 that's what is wrong. It really sounds like you are running too hot on a steady basis. If you know that's not the case, a brief description of how you know that, will quiet the people pestering you about the obvious. Welcome to the forum :) --- End quote --- Yes! i totally agree what you says. and is true. :-DD but my point was that i dont care about the tip or the oxidation or how to solder or anything else. I just wanna mod my iron to be in a "sleep" state when in the stand. And was asking about that. thanks! |
| Psi:
Your reed switch needs to adjust the temp sensor circuit in the handle so the electronics thinks the iron is hotter than it really is. That way the electronics will let the element cool down to some degree. You need to investigate your soldering iron handle to find out what kind of temp sensor it uses. Then measure it to see what property changes with temp, resistance, capacitors etc. and in what direction. Then you can figure out what you need to do with the reed switch to make it read hotter than it is. |
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