Need advice about buying multimeter Protek 6100

[SH@RK]

Hi

I am studying electrical engineering and I want to buy a good multimeter .

I am thinking about Protek 6100 {I don't need the things in 6300} .



http://www.protektest.com/ProdInfo.asp?prodId=6100

And this is 6300

http://www.protektest.com/Prodinfo.asp?prodid=6300

I saw it here and  I think it is good one .



So what do u think about it ?

===========================

I found this one and it looks the same of Protek 6300 but cheaper .

Sinometer MS8268



http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JQ4O2U?tag=wpfree100-20&camp=211493&creative=379989&linkCode=op1&creativeASIN=B000JQ4O2U&adid=12AETANM1T060W5QMSFC&&ref-refURL=http%3A%2F%2Ftoolstesters4reviews.blogspot.com%2F2011%2F06%2Fprotek-6300-multimeter-3-3-4-digit-5-in.html


So which product is better ?

===========================

Thanks

[oliver602]

Dave's multimeter videos are good if you want to know what to look out for when buying. Go to http://www.eevblog.com/episodes/ , do Ctrl+F (browsers page search) and type in 'multimeter'.  There is a $50 and $100 shoot out near episode 100.

(recently bought a multimeter!)

[SH@RK]

Thank U

I already watched them and can not decide yet .

#75 - Digital Multimeter Buying Guide for Beginners
#91 - $50 Multimeter Shootout
#99 - $100 Multimeter Shootout

The mane problem is that there are tow products almost the same but different in price .

So is it a good multimeter to buy ?

And which product should I buy ?

I am beginner so please help me .

Thanks

[Psi]

The Protek 506 i have is pretty badly made.
I can't say i'm a fan of the brand.

[IanB]

The multimeter you pictured seems to be a common design that you can find under many labels. Here is one that Harbor Freight sells for $39.99:



It has a lot of features for the money and I think it would be quite OK as a beginner's meter. It can be found under all sorts of other labels like Mastech if you look around for it. (Here's the same meter on Amazon as the Mastech 8229: http://www.amazon.com/Sinometer-MS8229-Auto-Range-Multi-functional-Multimeter/dp/B000JKMTDM)

I think there is no substitute for actually holding a meter in your hands and using it. Since you can never have too many meters, it doesn't hurt to make your first purchase a learning experience. Then when you buy a second meter you will know exactly what you want to improve on over the first meter and will be able to look out for specific things in the product reviews.

I'm in the same position right now with buying a first oscilloscope. I almost have to buy any oscilloscope, just to learn the nature of the instrument. It's hard to make an informed decision when you have not used one before.

[SH@RK]

Thanks

I think it will be first try before lerning .

Ok

Change in mind a little

I am thinking about Fluke 115 but I think the Current range is very small for electrical engineering .



http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-115-Comp.../dp/B000OCFFMW

What do u think , should I buy Fluke 115 ?

Thanks

[Kiriakos-GR]

but I think the Current range is very small for electrical engineering .

For those special tasks : above 10A , God made the clamp-meters.

[SH@RK]

but I think the Current range is very small for electrical engineering .

For those special tasks : above 10A , God made the clamp-meters.

Sorry , I meant the lower range , micro amp .

To make it clear I will use it with electronic things so I need very milli and micro .

Thanks

[amspire]

It all comes down to what sort of work you need the meter for.

If you are working in mains and high voltage, you want a trustworthy brand like Fluke.

If you are working in Audio, you will need a meter that does more then a few hundred Hz AC accurately which will almost certainly mean you need a true RMS meter. Check the specs.

If you are mainly doing low voltage stuff, the safety ratings just don't matter. You can start with a $30 multimeter as they can be quite accurate, they will always be useful as a second or third multimeter in the future, and the worse you blow is $30. At $30 to $40, it doesn't matter if you make a mistake. Next time you will know exactly what you need to buy.

If for some reason, you have to have RMS AC volts and current, then you are probably looking at the $100 plus meters. But if you don't know you need RMS, don't pay the extra now.

Just find a cheap meter that looks good to you and buy it.

Richard.

[amspire]

Sorry , I meant the lower range , micro amp .

To make it clear I will use it with electronic things so I need very milli and micro .

Thanks

You do not need to have every current range you might need. If you have a 4000 count multimeter with a 400mV range, then you can find an accurate 10K resistor to use as a current shunt, and measure the voltage across it to get a 40uA range.

[SH@RK]

If you are mainly doing low voltage stuff, the safety ratings just don't matter. You can start with a $30 multimeter as they can be quite accurate, they will always be useful as a second or third multimeter in the future, and the worse you blow is $30. At $30 to $40, it doesn't matter if you make a mistake. Next time you will know exactly what you need to buy.

If for some reason, you have to have RMS AC volts and current, then you are probably looking at the $100 plus meters. But if you don't know you need RMS, don't pay the extra now.

Just find a cheap meter that looks good to you and buy it.

Richard.

Thank U

So u think I can start with cheap one like Protek 6100 { or 6300 } or Sinometer MS8268 as a beginner then when I bacome pro getting something like Fluke   .

So which one do U think I start with Protek or  Sinometer ?

Or U tell what other brand U prefer .

Thanks

[SH@RK]

Sorry , I meant the lower range , micro amp .

To make it clear I will use it with electronic things so I need very milli and micro .

Thanks

You do not need to have every current range you might need. If you have a 4000 count multimeter with a 400mV range, then you can find an accurate 10K resistor to use as a current shunt, and measure the voltage across it to get a 40uA range.

I do not think I can do it in my level .

=============================

I want to get DC power supply and found only this in shops in my local  MCH-305D China made for 400 SR == 107 $ .



What do u think about it ?

Power supplies are heavy so it will cost no less than 60$ for shipping one to my place .

Thanks

[Kiriakos-GR]

but I think the Current range is very small for electrical engineering .

For those special tasks : above 10A , God made the clamp-meters.

Sorry , I meant the lower range , micro amp .

To make it clear I will use it with electronic things so I need very milli and micro .

Thanks

I do understand your needs, you seek max features in the budget side of things.
Well it does not work that way, speaking about pricing.

Currently I am working on the review of the Brymen BM869 , that is marketed in Europe in the sweet price of 200 - 230 EUR ,
and it is an complete device about basic features.
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?topic=5065.0

My only suggestion to you, will be to raise your offering to 200$ , so your list of choices to grow.
Currently the " I do everything with speed " DMM is the very fresh Agilent U1272A.
If you can jump that high, you will never need another DMM for many many years.

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?topic=4190.0

 

   

[amspire]

Thank U

So u think I can start with cheap one like Protek 6100 { or 6300 } or Sinometer MS8268 as a beginner then when I bacome pro getting something like Fluke   .

So which one do U think I start with Protek or  Sinometer ?

Or U tell what other brand U prefer .

Thanks

I don't think it matters. I am sure both can do a very useful job.

You are a student.  Which one look the coolest to you when you pull it out of your bag in front of everyone else?  Sounds an odd thing to say, but if you like a tool, you will put up with a lot of shortcomings and you will keep using it. If you don't like it, you will never feel happy no matter how well it works.

Richard.

[IanB]

If you are a student you don't want to be spending a lot of money or trying to buy the best tools, you want to be learning.

For a multimeter, this one would be entirely adequate at US $4.99:



I'm sure you can find it online from many places for a similarly low price. Buy two or three of them.

Likewise, for a power supply, why do you need an adjustable supply with current limits? For almost all experimental circuits you might build you only need a 12 V regulated supply (maybe dual rail) and a 5 V regulated supply. These are easy to construct from cheap parts like pluggable wall warts and/or voltage regulator IC's.

Learn how to scavenge for second hand items, reclaim used parts, and build things from what you can find. You will learn more and will follow in the footsteps of all the most inventive and capable people.

If you are studying in a university or college, the complex and expensive instruments will be available to use in your lab classes.

[EEVblog]

So u think I can start with cheap one like Protek 6100 { or 6300 } or Sinometer MS8268 as a beginner then when I bacome pro getting something like Fluke   .

So which one do U think I start with Protek or  Sinometer ?

It makes no difference, they are the exact same meter, and they go under other names too like Mastech.
Welcome to "badge engineering".
Just buy whichever is the cheapest one.

You can compare cheap multimeter until the cows come home, my $50 and $100 shootout barely scratched the surface.

If you don't have the experience to wight up the pros and cons yourself, then just by the one you like and can afford, it will likley serve you well until you learn more and know what makes a good meter for you. You are going to end up needing more than one multimeter anyway!

Dave.

[don.r]

And by some decent gripping probes. Those pointed probes will get you into trouble eventually.

[SH@RK]

Thank u all for helping me and sorry for not replying for three days   .

I ordered  Sinometer  and it is in shipping to me now .

Hopefully not more than a weak .

And when I receive it I will tell u the news .

Now looking for good soldering station .

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?topic=5660.0

Thanks

[robrenz]

If you are a student you don't want to be spending a lot of money or trying to buy the best tools, you want to be learning.

For a multimeter, this one would be entirely adequate at US $4.99:

I bought two of these and they work but they only have 1 megOhm input resistance so they heavily load the circuit you are measuring. I consider them junk if you need anything remotely accurate.

[alm]

1 Mohm represents a huge load? In some circuits 10 Mohm might represent a huge load, in other circuits 20 kOhm/V is acceptable. Most circuits have a fairly low impedance these days, especially compared to the tube days. Common resistors are in the 100 ohm - 10 kOhm order of magnitude, so 1 Mohm should be quite acceptable. 1 Mohm may be an issue if you want to use a high voltage probe, since many are designed for a 10 Mohm load, but I wouldn't want this meter anywhere near high voltage anywayi. No doubt it's cheap junk, what do you expect for $5? I wouldn't expect it to be very accurate either, especially if the battery is low. That doesn't make it completely useless, though. Until it dies, it will probably be fine for distinguishing 1 kOhm and 10 kOhm resistors. Or short circuit vs. open circuit. Or 5V vs. 9V. Does high DCV accuracy really matter if it's a power supply for a digital circuit that accepts 4.5-5.5V? Just don't use it for anything high-voltage or mains related, or where a correct measurement is important.

[robrenz]

Ok, I was a bit harsh.  I just happened to be trying to measure mV levels from a high impedance source with one of these and wondered why my readings were much lower than they should be.  You are right that the meter works fine and is fairly accurate for general work.

[IanB]

I wouldn't expect it to be very accurate either, especially if the battery is low. That doesn't make it completely useless, though. Until it dies, it will probably be fine for distinguishing 1 kOhm and 10 kOhm resistors. Or short circuit vs. open circuit. Or 5V vs. 9V. Does high DCV accuracy really matter if it's a power supply for a digital circuit that accepts 4.5-5.5V?

On testing a few samples of that meter the DC volts accuracy is usually good to within 1 count on the third digit or 10 counts on the fourth digit, even a little better if you adjust the calibration pot inside it. I would say that's good enough when testing for proper voltages in most circuits you might be building.

The main problem with this cheap meter is a lack of reliability in the rotary selection switch. It can sometimes go high resistance and need twisting a few times to polish off any accumulated oxides on the contacts. This shows up as a fluctuating or unexpected reading.

That, and the lower input impedance than many other meters, are all good opportunities for learning about how tools work. After all, my venerable analog meter has an input resistance of 50 kilohm/volt, and reading the indicator position off the analog scale gives you a much better appreciation of how significant that third digit on the measurement really is.