Ammo Jammo has it.
There is no one catch all wiring configuration that is correct.
All amplifiers have certain rating and specifications they will work in, same goes for the speakers.
Here's something to cook the noodle.
power does NOT kill speakers, at least it's not the cause of 90% of speaker failures.
What usually kills a speaker is driving them with a clipped signal. When a signal clips, it is pushing DC current to the speaker for a long time, while it may only be micro or nano seconds this is a long time to have large amounts of DC current going to a speaker repetitively. With the frequency that these clipped signals occur it does not give sufficient time for the voice coils to cool down. This excessive heat build up causes the voice coil to fail.
Many times you can run a lot more power into a speaker than it's rated for IF the signal NEVER clips. I have done this countless times over the years, both in my own audio systems, usually car audio and other people's systems. I had one car, a 1984 Sunbird, that I left the factory front speakers in, that were already 12 or so years old. These speakers were rated for 5W each. I ran these off a 50W per channel amp for a couple years, without issue.
Now that's looking at the electrical limits, mechanical limits are a very different thing...
I have only had one time that I can recall that power definitely killed a pair of speakers, 15" Memphis Audio LVS subwoofers that were connected to 4000W each. It was power that killed these because it wasn't the electrical limits that were reach, but the mechanical limits. The power came on so quickly (IIRC we were using a 60Hz tone at the time), and so strong, that the voice coils of both subwoofers jumped out of the magnetic gap and folded the cones inside out. I had never seen that before and haven't seen it again since.