Electronics > Beginners

The "I made this!" thread - Beginners achievements with pride.

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paulca:
This thread is for beginners to post their achievements with pride.

So you got an LED to blink for the first time, your wife thinks you're nuts and isn't interested.  Then post it on here.

Got your first op amp working?  Don't want to make a new thread, post it here.

Managed to figure out that tricky transistor circuit that's been bugging you for days?  Post it here.

Got your first Aduino sketch working, you're super happy, let us know below!

So...

What was your big achievement today?



Some rules:
* Post one liners or guides with pictures, anything goes.
* Feel free to discuss and advise but !!!KEEP IT POSITIVE!!!
    - Don't do that. You might want to try this instead.
    - You are doing wrong.  A better way to achieve this would be...
* Purely discouraging posts may be removed.
* Be as trigger happy with the "Thanks" button as you can be.
* Longer technical discussions, please start a new thread.
* Remember the first time someone achieves a blinking LED or first Arduino sketch is still an achievement they can be proud of, remember when it was your first time?

paulca:
To kick off...

I got an STM32 Arduino "Blue Pill" board to work.  Blinky! Blinky!  Neat little device.  Also tested out PWM and verified it with my oscilloscope.  PWM does not work on the built in LED pin though, it does bizarre stuff as apparently it's not a timer enabled port.

Cerebus:
Well done.

For your reference, here's the "blue pill" board pinout with the PWM capable pins marked:

BrianHG:
Here I go:

This was my first project using AdvancePCB/Schematic, which became Protel98/99se, and now is Altium, back in 1997.

It is a sub-woofer enhancement processor I called Subwoff.  It takes line level in, allows you to boost 25/20/15hz and below to ridiculous gains with an inaudible soft smooth rounding clip function allowing you to boost your speakers/amp subsonic rumble for movies.  Yes, the filter is so perfectly tuned that no bass will be added to the voice or music, just the rumbling effect.  It is stereo and allows you the feature to turn off the main audio so you can also use it as a active sub-sonic filter for a dedicated subwoffer instead.  Documentation and full schematic is in the .pdfs.
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I've included schematics & CAD CAM GERBER files with BOM.  It is a 2 layer board under 10cm X 10cm allowing for cheap 5$ prototypes for anyone who wants to build it.  The .pdf files have hi-res versions of the full schematic and PCB.  It requires a 9vac or 12vac output wallwart to opperate, not DC.  All the 10uf and 1uf caps should be non-polarized.
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Full Gerbers/CAD cam files, bom and source files and forum topic for questions is located here: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/free-subwoofer-audio-processor-project-for-forum-members/msg1434525/#msg1434525

Peabody:
Here's one I just finished that any beginner could do.  It started with building the DSO150 "Shell" kit oscilloscope, which is powered by an external 9VDC power supply (not included).  You could use a 9V alkaline battery, but the scope draws 120 mA, so you would go through batteries pretty fast.  So most buy a 9V wall wart to power the scope, and using that is not exactly convenient.

But then I saw on the JYETech forum that guys were modding their scopes to be battery powered with a single cell LIPO such as one found in a phone or a quadcopter.  The project requires a battery, a charging module, and a stepup boost converter to take the 3.7V LIPO output up to around 8.2V.  It turns out there's room for all that inside the case.  Everyone who does this does it a bit differently, but the pics below show where I put things, and how I connected them.

The kit is about $21 at Banggood (a known source of genuine kits, and you have to be very careful about that because fakes are not supported), plus about $6 for a real scope probe (alligator clips come with the kit - not good).  Then all the mod stuff totalled about $8.50, which is close to what a wall wart costs.  And you need some resistors and wire, and a hot glue gun.

Anyone considering doing this mod should install the kit's rotary encoder and the DPDT SW5 switch differently than described in the manual.  Most of the work required for the mod was in undoing and redoing differently those two parts.  Better to do them right in the first place.  I'll post more on that if anyone is interested.  Or just go to the JYETech forum, in the DSO150 group, and look for the long Lipo Mod thread.

So in the end you get a battery-powered, single-channel, pretty slow oscilloscope, which it turns out is useful for checking all kinds of things, and for learning how to use a scope.


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