Electronics > Beginners
Think I can make it? (electric 9-pole radial engine replica)
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james_s:
The large frontal area was long assumed to be a serious limitation in terms of fast aircraft but in reality once the aerodynamic cowling had been developed this proved to not be such an issue. The German FW-190, the American F4U Corsair and the British Sea Fury  were some of the fastest planes in WWII, all powered by radial engines. Part of this is of course brute force, the enormous amount of horsepower available from such large engines but the aerodynamics are not that far off from the sleeker looking inline powered aircraft.

I've always wanted to fly on a DC-3, it's probably the most versatile aircraft ever built, others since have been faster, bigger, sleeker, longer range, etc but nothing has quite captured that *perfect* balance of rugged versatility that has made the DC-3 so iconic.
jpanhalt:
And my favorite, the F7F Grumman Tiger Cat.  Bit late in the war, but fast.
james_s:
The Tigercat is a fantastic plane, I got to see an airworthy example named "Bad Kitty" up close at a local museum. Unlike most where everything is roped off, was able to walk right up and get my hand oily touching one of the engines. One of these days I need to go there on a day they fly it.
Gregg:

--- Quote from: metrologist on May 11, 2018, 12:10:57 am ---I remade a new rotor out of steel and just one flange. I am having a problem bringing the 12th magnet into position - it will jump on top of an adjacent magnet.  >:(

--- End quote ---

An attempt to get back on the original subject:
If you have the equipment to make it, I would suggest a three part (plus magnets, of course) rotor. 
The center or hub made out of steel, the middle ring made out of aluminum, brass, plastic or some non-magnetic material and a thin outer ring to retain the magnets against centrifugal forces. 
The middle ring would have radial holes to fit the magnets and made out of non-magnetic material wouldn’t bypass the magnetic flux but would keep the magnets apart. 
The center steel hub could be two parts screwed together like a tire rim with flanges to keep the middle ring located and tight so it wouldn’t slip. Some small screws would work to clamp the two halves together with suitable force to keep the middle ring from slipping. One half could be press fit on the shaft and the other a slip fit.  Making the center form magnetic material will make it part of the magnetic circuit.
The outer ring should be something thin like the brass drain pipe under a sink.  It could be a light press fit or leave it a little wider and make some bend tabs to keep it from walking axially.
I would probably start with the dimensions of the outer ring and build inward in CAD for real world dimensions. 
Another possibility would be to glue the magnets without the outer ring, but the magnetic forces combined with centrifugal forces of a working motor may cause catastrophic failure.
Enclosed is a very rough sketch, if you want a better sketch just ask. My old AutoCAD only works on an old XP machine that is in storage and I don’t want to spend the $ for a new version.
jmelson:
When I was about 20 I worked for NASA for a couple years.  They had a pair of C-47s with various sensing gear in them.  We replaced a TV camera and they needed to start an engine to have AC power.  It made an absolutely incredible sound from cranking up to the last cylinder rolling over TDC as it coasted to a stop. R-1830, I think.

Jon
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