Looking at the DS for the XL6009 it has UVLO which gives some protection to the battery and shuts down the switching.
It has thermal shutdown designed to protect the MOSFET switch.
So at face value, self protecting.
The most common failure mode is the converter's switching MOSFET (or other transistor type) going into meltdown.
They usually fail short connecting the the battery to ground. That pops the input fuse.
In that case your kit is safe. An input fuse is an absolute must for battery protection.
A Lipo battery can bloat, burst, explode and burn if shorted!
You also have to make sure its not going to get crushed or punctured.
PPTC fuses can be used, they trip in about 100mS
You could add an electronic over voltage and over current circuit to the output.
Hot swap and some POE controllers are just the thing eg TI's eFuse among many others, from AD Onsemi, Microchip, ST....
Typically less than $1 each.
You could make a muti channel system with one controller per output without breaking the bank.
The batteries I'm using are camera batteries - originally for sony videocameras, but they have been adapted for a wide range of uses for video production. They are basically 18650s in a hard plastic case, so not too much of a crush or puncture issue (within reason, obviously)
The batteries are internally protected, so will shut down with a short circuit, low voltage etc..., and stay off until you put them back on the charge, so that's something. Obviously it's not something to rely on though, so in the design I'm working on right now, I'm planning on putting a polyfuse on the input of the device.
I'm also contemplating putting a crowbar overvoltage circuit on the output to limit any possible high voltage output in a failure mode. It can operate between 9 and 18v on the power input, so I'm not going to have issues if it goes a little above the 12v I'm planning on using, but is it possible for these boost converters to fail in a mode that causes them to generate a much higher voltage?
I'll look into the eFuse, it sounds like a helpful component.
Check if the battery can provide the current:
2A*12/6/0.85=4.7A
A fully discharged battery is ~6V and assuming 85% efficiency.
Also see if the XL6009 can handle this input current.
Just looking at the manual for the recorder I'll be powering, it drawers 15w, and will take an input between 9 and 18v. That puts the output current at 1.25A as opposed to the 2A that I quoted (the DC plugpack that it comes with is 12v 2A, for some headroom i guess), so that should be a little less taxing on the battery.
I'll need to investigate what current the batteries can supply
Cheers for the info, It's certainly given me some points to work on.