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Type of solder to use: important for a hobbyist?

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Dundarave:
I was a full-time electronic service tech from about 1972 to 1992, doing discrete component repairs on audio products in the pre-RoHS days, and I've still got tons (well, a couple of pounds, anyway) of Kester's finest eutectic 63/37 tin/lead rosin-core solder left over that makes soldering a joy, compared to the newer lead-free compounds.

So I'm back into electronics now after 25 years, and luxuriating in the miracles that have occurred in the interim ($450 200M DSOs!  $50 T12-accurate soldering stations that heat up in seconds!  4 decimal place voltage standards that cost $20!  60MHz Arb. Wave Generators for $120!  All unheard of in my day!) and was wondering if I need to change my ways with respect to my now-prehistoric soldering practices given the presence of lead-free solder, fume extraction fans, and the general sense that lead solder & rosin fumes = certain death.

I had imagined that the leaded vs lead-free solder question might be one of those forum religious issues, but couldn't seem to find any threads on it (perhaps the subject has been simply burned out by exhaustion). 

So, my question:  given that I've survived over 20 years of lungfuls of lead & rosin fumes over a bench (with a cigarette hanging out of my mouth in those days, to boot) is there really any compelling reason or need for me to toss my tin/lead solder out and embrace the lead-free way?  I'm aware of the higher temp needed for lead-free, and its propensity for tin whiskers, both of which suggest that for me, leaded is the way to go, assuming everything else is equal.

What do other people use?  Does "everyone" use lead-free now?  Is it, like, 50-50 some do, some don't?  Do just the old-timers stick with leaded & the Gen X team go with lead-free?  Just trying to get a handle on the situation...

Thanks!
 

mariush:
I'm using 63/37 with 2% no-clean flux

I don't see any reason to use lead free as a hobbyist.

All I can say to a hobbyist: stay away from solders with water soluble fluxes - you may think it means "you can use water to clean the flux residue" but it's a bit more complicated than that, and it's better to just avoid them.
Also, "organic" or "green" fluxes are often more toxic, worse for your lungs...plain RA or RMA fluxes or no-clean are best choice solders

Oh yeah, and I can't stress how much having liquid flux helps you... it's a must purchase for every hobbyist.

Ian.M:
The *ONLY* reasons a hobbyist should use Pb-free solder is repair and other rework on post-ROHS equipment (to avoid the mixed alloy solder joint reliability issues), or if you are making anything for sale.    Pb-free and its fluxes are harder on your soldering tools, stress components more, and, without exacting process controls, result in lower reliability joints.

It doesn't take much to keep a spare bit for ROHS compliant work, + a spare bronze wool tip cleaner if you use that type, and a minimal supply of Pb-free solder.  Nothing else that a hobbyist uses is likely to introduce enough cross-contamination to matter.

The health risks of SnPb solder are minimal if one follows the usual safety practices to minimise ingestion of it, and the environmental consequences are also minimal as long as you keep as much of it as possible out of the domestic waste stream as heavy metal contamination of acid leechate from land-fill is a significant issue.

rrinker:
 A eutectic solder is easier to use, and makes nicer joints.

 I still use 63/37. The danger factor has been well overblown. Don't eat it. Wash your hands after using it. Basic common sense. Had darn near the same argument recently on a model railroad forum about using chunks of lead to add weight to the cars. Someone wanted to know if it was safer to paint/seal the lead after installing it - well, if the temperature is high enough that lead vapors are being given off, there also would be nothing left of your plastic models.

I've never done production levels of soldering, just hobbyist, but always with leaded solder and I'm perfectly normal  :-DD :-DD :-DD

Buriedcode:
Whilst leaded solder is more forgiving and generally "easier" to use for hobbyists - if you use half decent lead free, say SAC305 which is near eutectic, a temperature controlled iron set at 315-350C and flux, it really isn't much different.

A lot of the hate lead free got from hobbyists came from early cheap lead free solder with poor flux leading to dry brittle joints.  That and too low a tip temperature (just upping the temperature by 30C doesn't cut it).  I can't lie, I can tell the difference, and standard flux cored 67/37 is very hard to "get wrong", but with the above conditions is almost as easy with lead free.  Pretty difficult to screw up.

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