I've done a few PS3 boards, which looks like a similar problem. It's best to first mask off the components around whatever you're reflowing, kapton tape works nicely as it's highly heat resistant. Try and keep the static down when you do this though. Then, as it's a multilayer board with a lot of copper planes, it's easiest to take the whole board to a little under the solder reflow temperature, say 180 degrees C or so; being careful to make sure any plastic parts don't melt! Doing this with a toaster oven or kitchen oven is normally pretty straightforward, but the temperature readings on these can be way out, use a thermocouple or similar to read the temperature!
You can then take the board out and use a hot air gun to heat up the part that needs reflowing. The cheap hot air soldering tools that come up on here frequently work well for this. You can take the part up to the full reflow temperature and it should seat back down again.
Generally, you'll then have one of three things happen. It'll either not work and never work again, which means you've heated it up too much. Or it'll work for a while, and then break again. This means you've got to do the same process again, but being a bit more aggressive with the heat in the final stage. Or it'll be fixed!
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