EEVblog Electronics Community Forum
Electronics => Beginners => Topic started by: petreza on November 03, 2016, 02:50:52 am
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Hi,
I have spent more than an hour searching for such a thing and this is the only place I know to ask. It seems to be rarer than the teeth of a unicorn riding hen.
Basically I need this:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-15-Amp-125-Volt-Combo-Self-Test-Tamper-Resistant-GFCI-Outlet-and-Switch-White-GFSW1-0KW/206000203 (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-15-Amp-125-Volt-Combo-Self-Test-Tamper-Resistant-GFCI-Outlet-and-Switch-White-GFSW1-0KW/206000203)
but with a little dimmer slider like this:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lutron-Toggler-600-Watt-Single-Pole-3-Way-Eco-Dimmer-White-TG-603PGH-WH/100663449 (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lutron-Toggler-600-Watt-Single-Pole-3-Way-Eco-Dimmer-White-TG-603PGH-WH/100663449)
that is LED compatible.
Any help would be greatly appreciated as I am at my wits end.
Thanks!
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I don't know that they would make such a thing.
Can you not just get a dimmer and mount it next to your outlet?
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It's for the bathroom. There is only one switch hole in the wall and modifications are impossible. So the only choice is to find a replacement.
Thanks!
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Hole? Lol.
Just install a double device remodel box. If there's no room between stud location for a double box, install two single boxes vertically. Not ideal, but works, and allowes for the installation of two standard devices, switch, dimmer, recep., etc...
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I am imagining he doesn't want to try and cut a tile on the wall.
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The wall is made of some kind of cement mix with a metal mesh for support half way through the wall - its not hollow. Also I am renting this place and if I did what you suggest the landlord will evict me.
Thanks though! But replacing the switch is the only way.
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You'll have to go without a dimmer. They can't fit a receptacle and all the dimmer electronics plus heatsink into a single combination device.
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One other thought... since you're renting, you shouldn't be messing with anything electrical for liability reasons. Just be careful. ;)
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Use the GFCI+switch you found, plus an in-line dimmer: http://www.truevalue.com/thumbnail/Electrical-Lighting/Switches-Outlets/Dimmer-Switches-In-Line-Cords/pc/4/c/58/497.uts (http://www.truevalue.com/thumbnail/Electrical-Lighting/Switches-Outlets/Dimmer-Switches-In-Line-Cords/pc/4/c/58/497.uts)
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Use the GFCI+switch you found, plus an in-line dimmer: http://www.truevalue.com/thumbnail/Electrical-Lighting/Switches-Outlets/Dimmer-Switches-In-Line-Cords/pc/4/c/58/497.uts (http://www.truevalue.com/thumbnail/Electrical-Lighting/Switches-Outlets/Dimmer-Switches-In-Line-Cords/pc/4/c/58/497.uts)
Ummmm, I'm guessing he's trying to control some canlight or a hardwired light fixture...
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Yes, the dimming should be for the hardwired light fixture that is connected to the flip switch. The outlet is for general 110V use.
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If it's a standard light socket, perhaps buy an LED bulb with remote control
Just a thought
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run a long cord for the plug :D
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Would it be such a nuisance to run the light at 100% with no dimmer ? That is what I have in my newly remodeled master bathroom.
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Make the problem easier? Move the GFCI breaker to an outlet upstream in the circuit. Then you only need to source a dimmer/outlet.
I'd hesitate to do this as a renter; as a landlord, I wouldn't be too happy if a renter did it without asking, but I'd be cooperative if they checked first and the work was done to code (i.e., a licensed electrician, at their expense).