Using S-998P 220V desoldering gun with 110V in the US?

[x79ftw]

Hi all, i was wondering how i could go about using a 220V S-998P desoldering gun in the US with 110V? I read there are some type of converters that should be able to do this, but not sure where to buy one. I was told i might be able to change the transformer and fuse of the S-998P to 110V, would that work ok?

This is the desoldering gun i want to use http://www.ebay.com/itm/Practical-S-998P-Electric-Desoldering-Gun-Vacuum-Pump-Solder-Sucker-220V-100W-/161412905566 Im able to get it for only $100.

Would a converter like this work? http://www.ebay.com/itm/100W-Power-Converter-Adapter-AC-110V-120V-to-220V-240V-Up-Down-Volt-Transformer-/191253758641 I think i would need a much higher quality one with more power, does anyone know of a good one?

I would really like to be able to use the S-998P 220V in the US with 110V, and am willing to invest on a high quality converter if required.

[tooki]

I wouldn't recommend deliberately buying a 220V device just to run it through a 120->230V step-up transformer. For not much more than the cost of that giant gun and a decent transformer, you could get a much nicer desoldering station like this: http://www.amazon.com/Desoldering-Station-Digital-Temperature-Controlled/dp/B00KQ6PR6K

Also, I don't know whether the membrane pumps care about line frequency or not.

[Brumby]

My understanding is that US households are fed from a 220v split phase supply and that high power equipment such as stoves are wired to the full voltage whereas ordinary power points are supplied with one half of the phase, giving 110v.

If wherever you will be using the equipment has a 220v outlet, then all you have to be concerned about is the frequency.  If no 220v outlet available, you might be able to get an electrician in to install one ... at a cost.



Anyone from the US please correct me if I'm wrong.

[tooki]

Almost right: it's 240V/120V (hasn't been nominal 110V for many, many years). However, only the areas intended for major appliances are outfitted with 240V outlets, and I've never seen anyone attempt to use a stove or dryer outlet to run a 230V small appliance. I suppose it's possible in theory, though you'd have to cobble together a cable and socket for it!

[x79ftw]

Thanks for the help all, would something like this step-up transformer work ok? I would like to work on getting the 220V S-998P to run, because in the future there will be more 220V accessories i will want to use, and it will be helpful to learn how to get the S-998P to work with 110v.
http://www.amazon.com/Transformer-Converter-connection-certified-ULT1150/dp/B00HDUUL40


The S-998P lists the specifications as AC 220V-240V 50Hz, my building is new construction built in late 2014, i think my outlets are split into 110V and large appliances have dedicated 220V outlets but they are all occupied by the appliances.  If i were to purchase the step-up transformer i linked above, would i need to purchase anything else?

I would also need a step-up transformer that accepts Type I 3pin power plugs that are used in China and Austrailia, and connects to Type A or B US plug.

[tooki]

Your household voltage is nominally 120V/240V. The US hasn't specified 110V for a very long time.

Yes, that transformer will work (you could easily use one of the smaller versions), but remember that it will step up only the voltage, but will not alter the line frequency. (US is 60Hz, many countries are 50Hz.) Most devices don't care, but some do and will malfunction.

The only part of that desoldering gun that might actually care is the pump, potentially. I'm no pump expert, but just remember that those pumps work by reciprocating the membranes at line frequency. My guess is that it'll probably be fine, but may have a slight change in suction, since it'll be moving 20% faster than specified, but the inertia and drag of the air itself might make it more or less efficient per stroke. (This is pure educated guessing, nothing more.)

I still don't recommend deliberately getting devices for another power standard. Instead, as much as possible, try to get universal devices, and if that's not possible, get something local. Transformers waste energy and take up space, and really only make sense for temporary use or for unusual devices you simply cannot get for your power standard.

[all_repair]

My experience with this brand of desoldering iron was not good.   I bought a lot of China gears, most are very useable and I like them but this brand I have black listed.

[x79ftw]

@ tooki
This is great to know thank you so much .  Would there be a way to alter the line frequency as well? Or would that be almost impossible to do?

Do you know of a way to convert a Type I 3pin power plug, into a Type B plug? I cant seem to find a step-up transformer that accepts Type I 3pin power plug, if theres a way to convert it that would be perfect.
Would this converter be good and safe to use? http://www.ebay.com/itm/USA-Canada-Travel-Adapter-2-Way-Outlet-Plug-Convert-EU-UK-GB-AU-China-to-US-Plug/251471779716

Edit: Just found this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/130722906648 It looks perfect and has universal plug, im going to buy this one, Is 500W good or should i maybe go down to 350W or 250W to be more efficient?

@ All_repair What was wrong with this desoldering gun? My friend has one and likes it a lot.

[Ian.M]

That sounds like a disaster waiting to happen.   If you are going to buy 220/240V test equipment and tools, for use in a 110/120V supply country, you should plan on turning one corner of your test bench into 220/240V land.

That means you need a suitable case to contain a RCBO and thermally protected boost transformer (because even if 220/240V is available on some of your sockets from L1 to L2, the equipment will be designed for neutral to be near ground and wont have overcurrent protection in its neutral feed) with an approved USA plug with ground pin on its input and a suitable individually switched multi-way 220/240V socket strip on its output, possibly as a plug in extension lead.  Universal socket strips are available but they can be difficult to find and the safety, quality and contact area is often inadequate, so I'd standardize on UK sockets, which are notably robust and for which single country adaptors are readily available.  Also UK rewireable plugs are generally better quality than many of the alternatives.  Schuko (Euro) plugs/sockets are also a possibility but the ground contacts on the socket are pretty cheezy and vulnerable to damage.  You could go type I (Aus/NZ) but availability in the USA apart from crap from China is likely to be a lot poorer.  Whichever 220/240V socket strip you go for, order a box of rewirable plugs for it at the same time, and be prepared to change out plugs on anything 220/240V you buy that isn't a wall-wart.

[x79ftw]

For now the S-998P would be the only 220V device i would be using, although later on i would like to expand to about 2-3 more 220V devices, but for now one is plenty. The S-998P comes with a China/Australia plug. I found this device which is compatible with the Chinese/Austrailia plug. http://www.ebay.com/itm/130722906648

I should be able to plug the S-998P into the Litefuze LT-500 and it should work fine right? Is it safe also?


At this moment i cant modify any outlets in the building, so i dont think ill be able to add a RCBO just yet.

[Ian.M]

The RCBO should be a 240V rated model fitted in the stepup transformer case.

I cant say whether a Litefuze LT-500 is safe or not, but it does appear to be USA designed (by Enovize inc. Skokie, IL.) however the company website is down.

'convertingbox' seems to be some patented energy efficiency/ weight reduction technology for voltage conversion devices owned by Enovize/Litefuze. There is absolutely *NO* substitute for mass of copper and iron in the transformer for transformer based converters. If you don't have enough core area, copper turns and CSA, for the supply voltage, 1/F and load VA, your transformer will be lossy, both at no load and under load. While it is theoretically possible to rectify the incoming 110/120V to DC (with power factor correction), then run an inverter off the resulting DC bus to generate 220/240V 50Hz output (ideally well filtered 'pure sine'), with a low power standby mode the costs of doing so robustly at higher power levels are likely to be prohibitive.

[vk6zgo]

Thanks for the help all, would something like this step-up transformer work ok? I would like to work on getting the 220V S-998P to run, because in the future there will be more 220V accessories i will want to use, and it will be helpful to learn how to get the S-998P to work with 110v.
http://www.amazon.com/Transformer-Converter-connection-certified-ULT1150/dp/B00HDUUL40


The S-998P lists the specifications as AC 220V-240V 50Hz, my building is new construction built in late 2014, i think my outlets are split into 110V and large appliances have dedicated 220V outlets but they are all occupied by the appliances.  If i were to purchase the step-up transformer i linked above, would i need to purchase anything else?

I would also need a step-up transformer that accepts Type I 3pin power plugs that are used in China and Austrailia, and connects to Type A or B US plug.

You can certainly get a socket installed in the USA  giving 240v for leaded equipment.
They use a special socket.

Amateur Radio operators do so when they want to use Linear Amplifiers at the maximum legal limit.
They can be,& are,used from 120v,but come very close to the maximum current allowable.
240v gives a lot more "headroom".

The transformer will do the job,but is a more "messy" solution.

[Ian.M]

Non USA 220/240V equipment may not be safe on a USA 240V socket without an isolating transformer because in general the rest of the world uses electrical systems with one 220/240V phase conductor so tends not to have over-current protection for, and may not even switch the neutral side of, the appliance input circuit.

[tooki]

@ tooki
This is great to know thank you so much .  Would there be a way to alter the line frequency as well? Or would that be almost impossible to do?

Do you know of a way to convert a Type I 3pin power plug, into a Type B plug? I cant seem to find a step-up transformer that accepts Type I 3pin power plug, if theres a way to convert it that would be perfect.
Would this converter be good and safe to use? http://www.ebay.com/itm/USA-Canada-Travel-Adapter-2-Way-Outlet-Plug-Convert-EU-UK-GB-AU-China-to-US-Plug/251471779716

Edit: Just found this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/130722906648 It looks perfect and has universal plug, im going to buy this one, Is 500W good or should i maybe go down to 350W or 250W to be more efficient?

@ All_repair What was wrong with this desoldering gun? My friend has one and likes it a lot.

I wouldn't buy either of those Chinese devices, they're often dangerously poorly built, and while that's somewhat OK with small DC gadgets, it can literally kill you when you're talking about mains AC. Look for a good quality Australia (I) to USA (B) adapter, or buy European Schuko (F) plugs and standardize all your 230V equipment on that plug, as it is the most common.

But I still want to emphasize that I think it's a bad idea to collect 230V devices for use in USA. I don't mean the following to be in any way rude or condescending, but the questions you ask indicate that you don't quite know enough about the subject to deal with it safely. I would feel terrible if we all gave you advice and you ended up hurting yourself in the end. I implore you to learn more about mains AC safety before doing this. (I recommend watching YouTube videos from John Ward and bigclivedotcom, both of whom demonstrate how dangerous Chinese stuff can be. John Ward in particular focuses on mains devices, while bigclivedotcom focuses on Chinese junk, mains and low voltage alike.)

As someone who has moved back and forth between USA (120V) and Europe (230V) and thus have had to deal with the mains voltage issue repeatedly, I ultimately gave up on using transformers and plug adapters. It's just plain better to do it right and have devices that match the local power.

As for your question of whether it's possible to convert the line frequency as well: Yes, but it's hugely expensive.

[Zero999]

I agree that it's generally best to buy appliances that match the voltage in your location.

However, I've done a similar thing before with my Hakko soldering station. It's very difficult to get a genuine 230V Hakko soldering station in the UK so I bought the US model and run it from a 110V transformer. Rather than buying one of those cheap autotransfromer based converters, I used a 110V isolating transformer I already had available. I cut the crappy US connector off and replaced it with a robust military style connector. The transformer is enclosed in an earthed metal box with a power switch for the primary and a fuse on the secondary. I use it regularly and it's still working nearly two years later.

I wouldn't recommend this. The down side is the transformer is bulky and I'm sure the Hakko's transformer gets slightly hotter, as it's not designed to run off 50Hz. Changing the frequency from 50Hz to 60Hz is possible but it would require an inverter which would be expensive.

[vk6zgo]

Non USA 220/240V equipment may not be safe on a USA 240V socket without an isolating transformer because in general the rest of the world uses electrical systems with one 220/240V phase conductor so tends not to have over-current protection for, and may not even switch the neutral side of, the appliance input circuit.

Indeed------in fact,strictly speaking,it is illegal to fuse the Neutral line in Australia,although it is rarely policed.
The Ham Linears are normally designed for US 240v supplies,so it is not a problem for them.

It works the other way,too-----capacitors on Mains filters for US 240v stuff is often only rated for 120v service---in an Oz,European,or whatever 230v system,one cap has zero volts across it,& the other has full Mains potential.

[Ian.M]

I agree about the illegality of a fused neutral in most 220/240V developed countries, but it is possible to use alternative protection circuits like a double pole circuit breaker in equipment.  However unless it was designed for the 240V balanced antiphase US system, and has been wired with neutral through its L2 side, it probably wont detect over-current in what was designed to be the equipment neutral conductor.

[all_repair]

The desoldering pump cannot last.  It became very hot, burned after a normal duration suction.  I bought a replacement pump from the authorised store off taobao, and this time I did not burn the pump because I stopped before it burned off but the pump was as hot.  BTW my desoldering iron was bought on aliexpress, and being a nice guy, I acknowledged the good after a quick test, but when I approached the seller and told them about the bad quality, the response was: you had already acknowledged and accepted the good, and good luck to you.