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Are such larger variances normal? If so how would you use a transformer "reliably"?
This all depends on the quality of the transformer.
The magnetic circuit in a transformer is not ideal. The magnetic core material is not ideal, and the shape is not ideal either, causing leakage of magnetism through the air, outside the core.
The non-ideal behaviour is strongly frequency dependent.
Transformers can be made close to ideal, but now they become big and expensive. A high quality signal transformer can go from below 1Hz all the way up to nearly 50KHz, ruler flat.
Like this: