What do I use to hot snot connections in place?

[FearTec]

What do I use to hot snot connections in place?  I'd prefer not to use hot glue guns and I'd like to know what the professionals use (dark blue or red stuff that is often in Daves tear downs)? I don't want to super glue or araldite either

Thanks in advance

[wraper]

The cheapest would be to order silicone for electronics from China. Usually sold under 701-708 number from various manufacturers. Can order from aliexpress or ebay.  Western companies sell them only in large tubes for a lot of money.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000416228722.html

[FearTec]

Thanks for the quick reply wraper

I'm a beginner and got my first N Channel MOSFET firing a high amp ( solenoid and I want to limit vibrations.

Ordering now.

[FearTec]

Thanks I ordered 3x tubes of the 704

[wizard69]

This is another it depends question.   RTV is great for many applications but it doesn't always stick well to some materials.   Even so I will go the RTV route before anything else.   I've actually used RTV to pot wiring into the the back shells of DB connectors that seem to fail way too fast.

In some cases I've used good ole fast setting epoxy.   Epoxy is good for repairing things that may have been torn out of a board like thread inserts, brackets and the like.   In this case I like the "double Bubble" packs from Hardman / Royal adhesive, which apparently has been purchased by H.B. Fuller.   Fuller's web site sucks unfortunately.   In any event the double bubble packs usually have enough for the small repairs common in maintenance.   Just make sure the epoxy is compatible with what you are gluing together.

As to other materials the various enhanced super glues from the likes of 3M or Loctite can be very useful.   Both of these companies have all sorts of stuff for the PCB industry that I've never used.   It can pay to download a catalog to simply learn what the companies offer and to see if any are available in the minor quantities you require.

[wraper]

As to other materials the various enhanced super glues from the likes of 3M or Loctite can be very useful.   Both of these companies have all sorts of stuff for the PCB industry that I've never used.   It can pay to download a catalog to simply learn what the companies offer and to see if any are available in the minor quantities you require.

Don't suggest that on electronics. Superglue is slightly conductive. Also expoxy and superglue is not something you want on things you may need to repair or modify afterwards.

[Rasterist]

For anyone:  what are the problems with ordinary hot glue when used in this application?

[SmokedComponent]

Spray some isopropyl alcohol or contact cleaner on hot snot and that will demonstrate you where to use and where not to use hot snot.

[wraper]

For anyone:  what are the problems with ordinary hot glue when used in this application?

Unreliable crap. It will delaminate within a few years. When used in cold environment may happen within a few days. Or will soften/melt in hot environment.

[SilverSolder]

Spray some isopropyl alcohol or contact cleaner on hot snot and that will demonstrate you where to use and where not to use hot snot.

This effect is used for the force of good, in Paintless Dent Removal! 

[tooki]

What do I use to hot snot connections in place?  I'd prefer not to use hot glue guns and I'd like to know what the professionals use (dark blue or red stuff that is often in Daves tear downs)? I don't want to super glue or araldite either

Thanks in advance

Well, the snarky answer is that you must use a hot glue gun to hot snot something into place, since “hot snot” is a synonym for hot melt glue, and thus no other type of adhesive can qualify! 

Realistically, silicones are the typical adhesives used, but they must be neutral curing types, since you don’t want the acetic acid curing type releasing acetic acid onto or near electronic components.

For wires, I prefer to use tape or zip ties, etc. To reinforce stress-prone wire attachments, heat-shrink tube.

[SilverSolder]

For home/hobby projects, there is a low cost and convenient option:  non-acetic cure silicone from the local hardware or big box store.

General Electric (GE) Silicone II is very good and available everywhere.  It comes in handy 2.8 fluid ounce tubes, both clear and white.  Just make sure it says "Silicone II" on the container, or you will be getting the acid cure type!