What's the cheapest acceptable soldering iron to repair TS100 (oled connector)?

[epigramx]

I'm at a point that I want to connect a "hot barred" connector on my soldering iron and my secondary iron is not good even for children (not even a temperature reading is up there ). Are there any alternative irons that are the cheapest (ideally with an accurate temperature metering (e.g. directly plugged to the wall))? I mainly buy from ali and similar -> eu.

[Solder_Junkie]

I’m not sure what you are asking for. A soldering iron lasts a long time, so buying cheap is pointless. Quality is more important than price.

Don’t obsess over temperature control unless you are manufacturing for critical uses, such as aerospace.

The humble Antex XS (25 Watt), or M12 (12 Watt) are perfectly adequate for nearly all home uses.
https://www.antex.co.uk/

SJ

[DavidAlfa]

Did you even try searching "Soldering iron” in AliExpress?
Because you wil get flooded with temperature controlled, 30-60W, sub-$5 irons.
I had one of these years ago, it lasted fof 2 years or so until the heater burned down, did the job well for what it cost.
Performance isn't great but it's more than enough to replace a simple oled screen.

[epigramx]

Don’t obsess over temperature control unless you are manufacturing for critical uses, such as aerospace.

does everyone agree with this here?

[DavidAlfa]

The only situation you need 1°C  accuracy is for growing bacteria

[artag]

Just get a good one. there's no harm in having a decent spare.
The pinecils are supposed to be just as good as the miniwares at a lower price and use the same tips. Or get another TS100/101.
Spending money on poor tools is a false economy.

Of course, you should still fix your TS100. I'm not suggesting throwing it away.

I#ve personally got more than half a dozen good quality viable irons as well as 2 or 3 I no longer use, accumulated over 55 years of hobby and work. One good one (An Oryx 50 temperature controlled mains  iron)  is nearly 50 years old and still work well.

[artag]

Don’t obsess over temperature control unless you are manufacturing for critical uses, such as aerospace.

does everyone agree with this here?

I would agree that you're unlikely to cause damage by using a non-controlled iron, but a good one is more pleasant to use, gives more consistent operation, will handle a wider range of sizes of joint etc. I've never worked in any production department that didn't use them, not for the safety of components but because they give better quality control. If they could use cheaper irons with no loss of productivity, they would.

But for the job you're contemplating, I'd at least want a nice clean tip, not some relic that's been in your garage for 3 generations.
 

[DavidAlfa]

Who said uncontrolled soldering iron?
You can get a decent one for very little:

https://a.aliexpress.com/_EI0e6bl

My version was older, had 5 leds to indicate the temperature range, and I can say it worked very well for $5!
Now I remembered, I bought it at DHGate in 2012 or so, worked until 2017 when I got the Quicko T12 station.
Except for heavy ground  planes (Underpowered), it did pretty well for everyday stuff.

[epigramx]

The only situation you need 1°C  accuracy is for growing bacteria

what about 100C differences when some irons don't even have a display?

[epigramx]

Who said uncontrolled soldering iron?
You can get a decent one for very little:

https://a.aliexpress.com/_EI0e6bl

My version was older, had 5 leds to indicate the temperature range, and I can say it worked very well for $5!
Now I remembered, I bought it at DHGate in 2012 or so, worked until 2017 when I got the Quicko T12 station.
Except for heavy ground  planes (Underpowered), it did pretty well for everyday stuff.

you think the temp was semi-accurate? I was thinking I probably need a temp meter.

[BBBbbb]

Just get a good one. there's no harm in having a decent spare.
The pinecils are supposed to be just as good as the miniwares at a lower price and use the same tips. Or get another TS100/101.

I second the Pinecil (from Pine64).
I have both TS100 and Pinecil (first batch)
Mechanical quality of Pinecil feels a lower in the hand, but they both do a good job, and Pinecil is significantly cheaper with more power supply source options (closer to TS101 in that regard).

[Gyro]

...
I#ve personally got more than half a dozen good quality viable irons as well as 2 or 3 I no longer use, accumulated over 55 years of hobby and work. One good one (An Oryx 50 temperature controlled mans  iron)  is nearly 50 years old and still work well.

Ah, the old Oryx 50! I had on of those. It works on the principle of a long thermally expanding rod up the centre actuating a microswich in the handle. Mine worked flawlessly until I changed the tip, somehow this introduced enough slack (I think the rivet was loose) that it would occasionally glow Red hot until I pressed it hard the tip!

[DavidAlfa]

you think the temp was semi-accurate? I was thinking I probably need a temp meter.

Don't overthink too much around it, the worst will be $5 loss.
It was good enough. I never burned a pad unless cranking it really high.
Soldered all kind of stuff with it, definitely a simple oled screen in a small pcb will be no problem.
I never made measurements, the temps might be 20-50ºC off, who knows, I simply set the range I noticed it worked well, which was usually the 3rd of 5 leds, supposedly 300-350ºC range.
You could definitely notice the different ranges.

[EPAIII]

I purchased a $40 to $50 Tenma a few years ago as a second iron. It has a digital temperature control with display, interchangeable tips, and front mounted power switch. It has worked well for me and is probably a lot better than the $5 ones mentioned above.

I don't know about any special requirements for the particular connector you mentioned.

[EPAIII]

The main reason for temperature controlled irons is to prevent damage to the PCBs and the parts you are soldering to them. From what I have seen in the shops where I worked, many such irons are always set to the maximum temperature by the ignorant users. And I have had to repair many PCBs with traces that were overheated to the point where they de-laminated from the boards.

The iron is only as good as the user using it. And many users have NO IDEA how to do that.

When I purchased irons for common use in a shop, I ALWAYS looked for ones that were temperature controlled by the selection of a tip for the temperature you needed. The tips came in 600, 700, and 800 F ratings. So, +/-50 degrees F was OK. And I never purchased tips for over 700 F. So the dummies could not overheat the boards and components.

One degree accuracy is absurd. Ten degree accuracy is more than is ever needed. Twenty-five degree accuracy is the most anyone ever needs. And +/-50 degrees is perfectly OK.

I have two electronic benches at home and the irons on them are set for 600 F. I almost never need them any hotter than that.

Don’t obsess over temperature control unless you are manufacturing for critical uses, such as aerospace.

does everyone agree with this here?

[epigramx]

The main reason for temperature controlled irons is to prevent damage to the PCBs and the parts you are soldering to them. From what I have seen in the shops where I worked, many such irons are always set to the maximum temperature by the ignorant users. And I have had to repair many PCBs with traces that were overheated to the point where they de-laminated from the boards.

The iron is only as good as the user using it. And many users have NO IDEA how to do that.

When I purchased irons for common use in a shop, I ALWAYS looked for ones that were temperature controlled by the selection of a tip for the temperature you needed. The tips came in 600, 700, and 800 F ratings. So, +/-50 degrees F was OK. And I never purchased tips for over 700 F. So the dummies could not overheat the boards and components.

One degree accuracy is absurd. Ten degree accuracy is more than is ever needed. Twenty-five degree accuracy is the most anyone ever needs. And +/-50 degrees is perfectly OK.

I have two electronic benches at home and the irons on them are set for 600 F. I almost never need them any hotter than that.

Don’t obsess over temperature control unless you are manufacturing for critical uses, such as aerospace.

does everyone agree with this here?

I just assume I need the lowest possible that will do the job, because that will be the safest for the things that can be damaged.
If I'm lazy I just set the TS100 to 300C and don't even check but I generally notice I can go as low as ~280C or as high as ~350.

[slavoy]

I'm at a point that I want to connect a "hot barred" connector on my soldering iron and my secondary iron is not good even for children (not even a temperature reading is up there ). Are there any alternative irons that are the cheapest (ideally with an accurate temperature metering (e.g. directly plugged to the wall))? I mainly buy from ali and similar -> eu.

It's hard to find any soldering iron that will not manage to do it. Just pick any  https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33006061723.html

[u666sa]

I'm at a point that I want to connect a "hot barred" connector on my soldering iron and my secondary iron is not good even for children (not even a temperature reading is up there ). Are there any alternative irons that are the cheapest (ideally with an accurate temperature metering (e.g. directly plugged to the wall))? I mainly buy from ali and similar -> eu.

You don't just need Iron, you need hot air, and disordering. It's pointless to have all 3 separate on your desk. Because it's space. So I would suggest you get what I have -- Aoyue 2703A+
It is a professional grade station. It will last you a long long time. You can do anything with it, just buy tips, and hot air nozzles.

Great future of this station that I started to appreciate with time is fume extraction. It's just nice when the fumes don't hit you in the face when you solder.



Besides station you might need pre heat. If that's the case I recommend -- termopro, model based on table size you need

Excellent future of this setup is that it is compact on your desk, unlike 99% of preheats on the market. This one stays on the desk and you tend to use it everytime.

[EPAIII]

Oh, yea! That is undoubtedly the cheapest acceptable one.

 

I'm at a point that I want to connect a "hot barred" connector on my soldering iron and my secondary iron is not good even for children (not even a temperature reading is up there ). Are there any alternative irons that are the cheapest (ideally with an accurate temperature metering (e.g. directly plugged to the wall))? I mainly buy from ali and similar -> eu.

You don't just need Iron, you need hot air, and disordering. It's pointless to have all 3 separate on your desk. Because it's space. So I would suggest you get what I have -- Aoyue 2703A+
It is a professional grade station. It will last you a long long time. You can do anything with it, just buy tips, and hot air nozzles.

Great future of this station that I started to appreciate with time is fume extraction. It's just nice when the fumes don't hit you in the face when you solder.



Besides station you might need pre heat. If that's the case I recommend -- termopro, model based on table size you need

Excellent future of this setup is that it is compact on your desk, unlike 99% of preheats on the market. This one stays on the desk and you tend to use it everytime.

[DavidAlfa]

"What's the cheapest acceptable soldering iron to repair TS100"

Like usual, so much overthinking and ***.
For the love of god, this is it, it needs nothing special.

[epigramx]

"so much overthinking". he proceeds to show an iron that is pretty expensive. also that guy with the screenshots seems like a shop pushing product.

[DavidAlfa]

Showing it's a 20x40mm pcb with simple connections that could be repaired almost using a hot potato  .
It was the only good video not taking 40 minutes of nosense and good lighting.

[benrr101]

I'm pretty partial to my Weller WLC-100. US$30 on amazon, got a dial for temp control, and a screwdriver style tip as default. It's handled just about everything I've thrown at it, including SMD down to SOT-23s and 1206 packages. Only thing I dislike is that the cord is a bit stiff. Maybe someday I'll upgrade to a better Weller, but no reason to right now.