Which new Multimeter i should buy

[Irukandji]

Hi guys,
i hope i write my question on the right forum page. I need a new multimeter becouse my old Peaktech 1075 makes me crazy.https://www.reichelt.de/multimeter-digital-1999-counts-spannungsdetektor-peaktech-1075-p36425.html?&trstct=pol_8

It don't measure the right Voltage or Ohms. It shows me ever a other resistor value on the same resistor when i make the multimeter off and then on. At a 1000 Ohm resistor it shows me 1009 ohm or 1050 ohm or 1000 ohm or 1023 ohm or 1100 or...... and the same issue it show me at the voltage range. I don't know what is wrong with it....It is my first multimeter so i think i was the issue and i killed it.
Now i need a new one and i don't know which multimeter i should buy.

I prefer:
- a big screen ( same like my old one or a little bit bigger)
- background light
- temperature measure
- fast count
- capacitor test ( would be fine)
- ncv (not must have)
- is auto range good or not?
- price near 50€

I need the multimeter for testing my curcuit on a breadboard. Not really high voltage but time to time i test my house plug/power point 230V 50Hz.

I don't know which multimeter is good or bad. I cant find many review for Peaktech multimeters. I think they only buy from other manufactory.

The eevblog makes advertising for aliexpress and call it BUDGET MULTIMETERS!! I see there a multimeter calls aneng 8009. Is this a good Multimeter for me or do you prefer a other one?

best regards

[Darkwing]

Is your battery at full charge?


But anyway: as a cheap entry level multimeter I recommend the Model VC97:

https://www.ebay.de/itm/Digital-Handheld-Multimeter-VC97-DC-AC-Volt-Amp-Ohm-NCV-Tester-Meter-TRMS-AC/173589311922?hash=item286abab1b2:g:d7wAAOSwtLtbw~xd

I measure "everything" with it. In my oponion it is very important that you can reach the fuse(s) very easily, without the need to disassemble the whole case of a multimeter. You don't see this at the pictures, but with the "rectangle" versions of a VC97 this is possible. Don't buy the "curved" versions.

You can still find loads of this model on Aliexpress; some on ebay.

And remember: don't buy the "curved" versions. (!) "Rectangle" you need.    VC97.

[Microcheap]

I have a some multimeters at my bench and I think one that tick all your requirements is the UNI-T UT139C and it is what I would recommend as it is my favorite of the bunch.

I have one VC97 that I like very much and it has served me for a long time, but it is different from that one linked above, mine does not have backlight nor NCV.
My second choice after the UT139C would be the UT61E. I like that it is 22000 counts and it has serial interface, but it also doesn't have NCV nor backlight, although I modded it to add this feature.

I also have the AN8008, it is nearly identical to the AN8009 except that it doesn't have the NCV feature. I don't use it very much, for me it is too small and the resolution at mA range is not great. It is the cheapest and its build quality reflect it. I think the Aneng are a good option to have in a bag to carry around just in case you need do a quick measure, but it is not my case.

Oh, and the UT139C has a little better input protection, not too relevant for low power electronics but as you said you occasionally need to probe mains, that is something to consider. You will find a lot of detailed information about these meter in this forum.

[exe]

I like my aneg meters (also know as richmeters and probably other "brands"), particulary AN8002 model, it's well balanced, imho. I also have AN8008, found I like AN8002 more.  UT61E is a good choice as well, but they are not spot on. So, you have good resolution, but not accuracy (it has trimpot inside to adjust, but it seems mine of poor quality, some modding is needed). It's still my favorite meter.

I suggest have at least two meters for simultaneous measurements.

PS my main criteria for a dmm are: fast continuity test, fast display updates, reasonably fast autoranging, high-contrast display.

[Irukandji]

Hi
thanks for your feedback. If i buy any of this multimeter have they all the same standard world wide or can they produce this products with other specs from land to land?
More person are welcome to give me a choice for a multimeter.


Btw: Yes i checked the batterie from my multimeter. It doesn't helped.^^

[exe]

Hi
thanks for your feedback. If i buy any of this multimeter have they all the same standard world wide or can they produce this products with other specs from land to land?

They all come from China . But yeah, some variation is possible. Like, different leads, different fuses, some accessories. Like more expensive ut61e came with with usb adapter, while mine came with just rs-232. Some people reported cheap ut61e had less protection circuitry inside. So, if buying from aliexpress/bandggood/whatever be sure to check user reviews and photos. Also worth goolgling a bit and checking relevant threads on forums.

On the other side, aneg meters so cheap that I wouldn't bother much with research. Just buy it and see if it works for you. Btw, I think they come without batteries.

Also worth mentioning that they do not meet safety specs (that's fine for breadboard usage). Esp. fuses are horrible, I'd avoid measure current in mains. There is a long thread on DMM safety. It's worth reading. It takes time, but gives awareness on the problem.

[gildasd]

A 1% 1k resistor that reads 1009 is within spec 

Joking aside, to paraphrase my electronic professor, a value multimeter is either for “good enough” absolute or rather precise relative measurements.
You won’t have very precise absolute measurements, especially in the V^-3 range and below - unless you spend money, get voltage references and be real careful (or get a second hand bench meter that has not lost its calibration).

I had rather good luck with a Uni-T 61E, it is quite capable if you know it’s limitations.
My only recommendation would be to get 2 relatively cheap meters rather than one more expensive.
Being able to mesure V and A at the same time is a wonderful luxury!

[GreyWoolfe]

Whatever inexpensive meter you choose, get a decent set of test leads.  I have 2 Anengs myself and the leads are atrocious.  They have been recycled.  Get a set of Probemaster or Brymen gold plated leads and your readings will be more predictable and accurate.  I have 5 or 6 pairs of these:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brymen-Silicone-Gold-Plated-Test-Leads-Probes-for-Multimeters-CAT-IV-1000V/171162377470?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

I am very happy with them.

These are a possibility.  I plan on getting a set to try them.

https://probemaster.com/8000-series-test-leads-only/

[Mr. Scram]

I know what I'm about to propose is about double your budget, but it may be worth the investment. How about a Brymen BM235 or BM257S? Those are real and proper multimeters both in terms of quality and safety. I accept it's a lot more than you want to spend, but you'd have a tool you can trust and will be useful to you even when you upgrade to even better multimeters in a couple of years time.

[Yolk]

I have the fluke 107 and it's a great meter,it's almost twice your budget but hey,it's fluke brand. You can search for pictures of the insides and see for yourself.. you really get what you pay for.

Caps goes to 1000uF that's my only problem,i wish it would go to 10k like the 87'V but i doubt you'd be testing those often.

[Irukandji]

Near 100 € for a Multimeter is me to expensive. My old multimeter for 16€ (Peaktech 1075) was enough for me but it let me alone .
I think the range of 40€ - 60€ is enough but thanks for your information. How can i know if the CAT certification true or not true on a multimeter. Is there any way to read if it true or not or did no one check the CAT certification like TÜV/DEKRA in germany?

[Darkwing]

With cheapometers in general you can not trust ANY ratings. Think of it like this: the (chinese) manufacturers themselfes don't even have a clue what they are printing on there.    They sell them to you, that's all. 

When I decided for the VC97, I loved M. J. Lortons videos about it; see them here:

Review: Part 1 - Vichy VC97 vs Victor V97 Multimeter


Review: Part 2 - Vichy VC97 vs Victor V97 Multimeter


They are around 25 Euro on German ebay.

[Irukandji]

That is a really big multimeter.
Thanks for the video i will watching these two.

No one knows what they do in his job sounds familiar with german politician.

[Mr. Scram]

I think the form factor is a copy of a Fluke 179. I'm not sure a Vichy can be considered a safe meter, though.

[Yolk]

https://www.google.com/amp/s/amp.reddit.com/r/HandsOnComplexity/comments/3qpn0d/multimeter_primer/

I found this to help explain my point on why you should have a good budget on a multimeter,even for starters.

Engineering is about eliminating errors,that's something that you always take into account. You change things one-at-a-time,see the change,then decide whenever to change something else and leave that thing how it was before,or keep going in that path.

A good multimeter will eliminate errors in this process,it's easier to work on something when you know that 1 volt IS 1 volt and can't be anything else.

You do whatever you want anyway,i can't suggest anything less than Uni-T for that budget and keep away from the cheap uni-T's.

[mvs]

How can i know if the CAT certification true or not true on a multimeter. Is there any way to read if it true or not or did no one check the CAT certification like TÜV/DEKRA in germany?

You may have a look at youtube channel of Joe Smith. He has tested a lot of DMMs using transient generator, incl. Uni-T UT139C, EEVBlog Brymen BM235, etc.

[rstofer]

People get all hung up on CAT ratings without realizing that we got by for many decades before this new 'standard' was invented, probably by Fluke.  Yes, a high end meter from a high end company (Fluke) probably does comply with the standard (is it really a legislated standard?).  Perhaps others do as well - but you pay for the rating and the name.  There was even a time when V-O-Ms didn't even have fuses!

CAT ratings simply aren't necessary for breadboard work and only CAT III 600V is necessary for working at the level of a wall outlet.  I don't trust any Chinese meter rating regardless of who has branded the meter.  Maybe they comply, maybe they don't.  Colored ink is cheap!

Here's the thing:  You only need to worry about CAT when there is some kind of high voltage transient condition - like a lightning strike right outside your house.  How about just make a rule:  No testing of wall outlets during a storm.  Read the Fluke article on CAT ratings:

https://content.fluke.com/promotions/promo-dmm/0518-dmm-campaign/dmm/fluke_dmm-chfr/files/safetyguidelines.pdf

In most cases, you can get by with CAT II.

Check out Dave's review of the Aneng 8008.  You will find that it is superbly accurate and dirt cheap.

https://www.eevblog.com/2017/07/15/eevblog-1007-is-a-25-multimeter-any-good/

I have a few DMMs:  Fluke 189 (expensive), Vichy 97 (decent meter), EEVblog BM235, EEVblog 121GW and the Aneng 8008.  I really like, and use, the 8008.  The two EEvblog meters are on the bench but generally not used, the other two are stored away.  I also have a couple of those really cheap Harbor Freight meters.

The AN8008 is so inexpensive that you can probably get 2 or 3 and this would be ideal.  Three meters is about right for most prototype work.

Why measure outlet voltage?  Is there anything you can do to change it?  If not, who cares what it reads?  Test for presence with a wall wart with LED or a table lamp or whatever.  And don't do it when lightning is in the neighborhood.

[rstofer]

I have the fluke 107 and it's a great meter,it's almost twice your budget but hey,it's fluke brand. You can search for pictures of the insides and see for yourself.. you really get what you pay for.

Caps goes to 1000uF that's my only problem,i wish it would go to 10k like the 87'V but i doubt you'd be testing those often.

Use a scope and watch the change in voltage for a series RC circuit.  V_out = V_in * (1-e^-t/RC).  10,000 ufd and 1k has a time constant of 10 seconds.  The output voltage will rise to about 63% of the input voltage in 1 time constant.  In fact, this is so slow it might be possible to watch it with a DMM, certainly with a V-O-M.  Put 5V in and expect 3.15V in 10 seconds.  If I did the math right...

[rstofer]

Why 3 meters?  Consider a simple common-emitter transistor amplifier.  Maybe you want to characterize the transistor by using 1 meter to measure collector current by a) putting the meter in series with the collector or b) measuring the voltage drop across the collector resistor and computing the value.  Next, you would want to measure V_ce and V_be.  In a perfect world, these three measurements would be taken simultaneously.

Yes it can be done with a lesser number of meters but then it isn't a perfect world.

[mvs]

People get all hung up on CAT ratings without realizing that we got by for many decades before this new 'standard' was invented, probably by Fluke.  Yes, a high end meter from a high end company (Fluke) probably does comply with the standard (is it really a legislated standard?).  Perhaps others do as well - but you pay for the rating and the name.

Yes it is legislated standard, IEC-1010 was adopted as EN 61010 and UL-3111 in Europe and US.

[soldar]

People get all hung up on getting really good, expensive, tools. Yes, it is nice but I generally prefer to have the cheapest tool that will do what I need. That way, when I lose it, burn it, drop it, have it stolen, electrocute it, inadvertently drop it in a vat full of acid, have it chewed up by the alternator belt in the car, or my wife hits me over the head with it, I lose something I can afford to replace and not something I need to get a mortgage to replace.

I have about 8 or 10 meters, some better than others, some more specialized, and I try to use the cheaper ones for routine work and only use the better ones I keep at the bench when I absolutely need to. About every two or three years I forget to change the leads or the scale or something and I blow up a meter. Thankfully it has always been a cheapo meter and I only felt bad for a few minutes while I went to find the next one in line.

BTW, the first thing I would do is review/check/repair what you have. Make sure battery is good, contacts are clean, rotary selector switch contacts, etc. I see no reason why it should not work.

[rstofer]

People get all hung up on getting really good, expensive, tools. Yes, it is nice but I generally prefer to have the cheapest tool that will do what I need.

The thing about the Aneng 8008 is that it really is a good tool.  Not very expensive but with astounding accuracy according to Dave's tests.  It also has a square wave signal generator - it won't replace an Arbitrary Waveform Generator but it might be pretty handy.

I also have a couple of bench type DMMs that I rarely use.  Sometimes these show up on eBay at very attractive prices.  If the prices hadn't been compelling, I wouldn't have bought them.  A handheld meter does all I need.

As to accuracy, if the meter hasn't been calibrated in the past year, all of the readings are suspect.  None of my meters have been calibrated since they left the factory if it was even done then so I just consider the measurements as "about".  Close enough for a hobbyist!

[exe]

Also, more expensive doesn't mean better usability. There are quite a few meters that even cannot do continuity test properly (read fast).

[Mr. Scram]

Let's not pretend people are recommending more expensive meters here because it's some sort of fashion statement. It's not about price, it's about safety, build quality and general trustworthiness. It's also about reducing the cognitive load while you're already engaged in a demanding activity. You don't want to be dealing with wobbly and intermittent contacts while troubleshooting a real problem. A cheap meter is a liability if you don't know the differences between a good one and one purely designed around a budget. Considering OP has opened this thread he falls into that category.

Especially safety is about that one time in all those hundreds of times you need it. A good tool is always worthwhile. You don't need a Fluke 87V, but having a proper meter which will both protect you and help you best as possible to solve your problem is worth it. If you must go out and buy an AN8008 and rub off the CAT markings, but do yourself a favour and buy at least one "proper" multimeter as well. It doesn't have to be stupidly expensive, just good.

[Neilm]

There was even a time when V-O-Ms didn't even have fuses!

True - but the people using them tended to know what they were doing. Many people using them today just do so cos they want to do a measurement without understanding the dangers.

Here's the thing:  You only need to worry about CAT when there is some kind of high voltage transient condition - like a lightning strike right outside your house.  How about just make a rule:  No testing of wall outlets during a storm. 

You can get some pretty large transients in the event of load switching or grid fault conditions.

In most cases, you can get by with CAT II.

For an ordinary user who isn't probing the mains in the wall true. However since the new version of IEC61010-2-033 all meters must be at least CAT III.

[Irukandji]

Can the Aneng An 8001 - 8009 or the renamed models measure 10mA or 20mA? I dont know if i understand it right on the eevblog video to the aneng 8008 but it saw like he cant measure it. But the aneng 8001-8008 is not safe to measure 230V if i only put the probe in the 230V socket?

The Uni-T UT139C looks save when i understand it right on the video from joe smith.

[mvs]

Can the Aneng An 8001 - 8009 or the renamed models measure 10mA or 20mA? I dont know if i understand it right on the eevblog video to the aneng 8008 but it saw like he cant measure it.

AN8008/AN8009 DMMs can use 1A range to measure this currents. It is not the best way to go, but it is acceptable for small meters. The problems are 0.1 mA resolution and 1% +3 digits accuracy (for 10mA it is +/-0.4mA).

UT139C is larger, has better build quality, more functions (REL, MIN/MAX, NCV, ...) and current ranges. It can make 10mA and 20mA measurements using 60mA range, with 0.01mA resolution and better accuracy (0.7% +2 digits, for 10mA it is +/-0.09mA).

But the aneng 8001-8008 is not safe to measure 230V if i only put the probe in the 230V socket?

I would not recomend you to use any pocket meter for this job.

[Irukandji]

I think i buy now two multimeter's. One is the Uni-t UT 139C and the other one is one of the aneng 8002,8008 or 8009 or renamed model. These 3 models and the renamed models are same accurate or?
If i buy the Uni-t UT 139C about Amzone how i can know if it a europe version? I read there is a china version of the ut 139c on the market is it true and what is different?

best regards

[rstofer]

If you want the CAT ratings to be real, look for the icon of an independent testing agency like UL or ETL (and whatever the German equivalent is) somewhere on the meter.  CE doesn't count because that is usually a self-certification.

The Aneng 8008 is NOT UL Listed, the Brymen BM235 is.  One can assume that the 235 actually meets the CAT ratings.  No such assumption can be made for the 8008.  For my purposes, the CAT ratings are not important.

The EEVblog 121GW meter is not UL Listed but it is listed by ETL - an independent testing agency approved in the US.  So, it's listed...

[Darkwing]

I think the Uni-T 139C is a good choice for you. With it you have the ability to easily access the small fuse. When you buy a meter, also buy a set of fuses in the right size. You may need them one day.

In case of the Uni-T 139C that is: 6x32 mm  FF 600mA H 600V (according to manual).


EDIT:  About safety and mains, here is how I see it:
Every Phasenprüfer for 1 Euro is more "unsafe" than your multimeter. When people say, "the meter is not save on mains", this does not mean that it will automatically turn into dust when you measure mains with. I read the linked article above: it basically says, that you need to be careful and that a good quality meter doesn't protect you from main, but it helps to protect you a little bit from your own stupidity. I ALWAYS treat mains with respect. I plan every hand move very slowly and don't take any risk, when I work with it. And you should too – but most of all: don't be afraid, or you shouldn't do it at all. Don't be too concerned about CAT ratings, they don't protect you from your own stupidity. Such a meter is ok, when you occasianally want to work with mains. Should some day come and you find yourself working on mains routinely on a daily basis: then by all means get a very good meter, that is suitable for this kind of job! But for now, I only can say: I measured 15A 240V with my 25 Euro Multimeter VC97; I'm still alive and so is the meter.

[mvs]

I think i buy now two multimeter's. One is the Uni-t UT 139C and the other one is one of the aneng 8002,8008 or 8009 or renamed model. These 3 models and the renamed models are same accurate or?

8008 and 8009 have more counts, so in some cases you can get better accuracy and resolution.

If i buy the Uni-t UT 139C about Amzone how i can know if it a europe version? I read there is a china version of the ut 139c on the market is it true and what is different?

I doubt that UT-139C has country specific versions like it was the case with UT-61E. Check the fuses as it arrives, they should be HRC.
Or you can buy it from pollin or reichelt to be sure.

[FrankE]

I spent a fortune on cheap meters when I was younger. None lasted and it was a false economy. The traces lifted on every cheap one with a rotary switch. Though I've more expensive meters including a logging one and a bench one I use a Fluke 117 extensively. It's aimed at electricians and has no microAmp range.
Even if I'm not working or doing much in the way of electronics it gets used for checking fuses and batteries and other household stuff.

[exe]

8008 and 8009 have more counts, so in some cases you can get better accuracy and resolution.

Only in some cases . E.g., for 3.3V they will have same resolution. Only between,e.g., 6V and 10V AN8008 will show one digit more. Also AN8002 uses same (or similar) 10000 count chip, you can get more counts by changing flags.

[joeqsmith]

.... The traces lifted on every cheap one with a rotary switch. ...

Wow, that's pretty bad and not something I have run into.   Would have liked to have seen some closeup pictures of the traces. 

[Irukandji]

Hi guys,
i want to tell your that the Aneng AN 8008 and the Uni-T UT139C arrived me. Thanks so much for your help. 



https://www.bilder-upload.eu/bild-1698ed-1550252675.jpg.html

[alex-sh]

With cheapometers in general you can not trust ANY ratings. Think of it like this: the (chinese) manufacturers themselfes don't even have a clue what they are printing on there.    They sell them to you, that's all. 

When I decided for the VC97, I loved M. J. Lortons videos about it; see them here:

Review: Part 1 - Vichy VC97 vs Victor V97 Multimeter


Review: Part 2 - Vichy VC97 vs Victor V97 Multimeter


They are around 25 Euro on German ebay.

Vichy

This was my first DMM.
It was very precise until it stopped working.

For you budget, I do not think you can get a really decent meter. Maybe Uni-T or Vichy?
However, I would seriously consider Brymen (Korea). For a little more, you are getting a better quality meter, which you can trust.