wire size help needed for 60V 15A DC

[ledtester]

I am trying to assemble the sloping enclosure for the DPS5015 as seen here:

https://www.banggood.com/RUIDENG-DP-And-DPS-Power-Supply-Housing-Step-down-Casing-Digital-Control-Buck-Voltage-Converter-p-1143234.html?rmmds=detail-top-buytogether-auto__6&cur_warehouse=CN

It comes with some hookup wire which measures around 2.0mm in diameter. However, this wire is too thick for the pads marked "Key" on the small circuit board (see attached pic.) The pad holes are only about 1.5mm in diameter.

The supplied wire works find for the connections to the DPS5015 main board. The "Key" pads connect to the power switch. Perhaps the key pads were meant for some sort of connector.

The question I have is what gauge wire should I use for the "key" pads. It will be carrying DC current, max voltage 60 volts, max current 15 amps (since this is a buck-ony converter.) Length will be only a couple of inches.

My 14 AWG stranded wire doesn't fit, so I would have to go to 16 AWG. Or perhaps use solid core wire?

[Paul Moir]

As long as the leads are reasonably short 16AWG will be just fine.  Inches are well within "reasonably short."

[Paul Price]

First of all, the higher the AWG, the smaller the wire size.

 You shouldn't even think of carrying the amount of current(15-amp) you describe with <2mm diam. wires. 10-12 AWG would be more like it. Solder the wires directly to the pads, do not use the too-small though-hole approach.

[Monkeh]

You shouldn't even think of carrying the amount of current(15-amp) you describe with <2mm diam. wires. 8-AWG would be more like it.

You're kidding, right? 8mm² for 15A?

You shouldn't even think of carrying the amount of current(15-amp) you describe with <2mm diam. wires. 10-12 AWG would be more like it.

You're kidding, right? 3-5mm² for 15A?

[Gregg]

As Paul Moir stated, 16 AWG wire will be quite satisfactory (as long it isn’t that crappy copper plated aluminum stuff that seems to be so prevalent lately).  Since it basically is single conductor in free air circulated by two fans, and it is short length, the wires will easily carry the rated current of the power supply. 
I personally used 14 AWG in my DPS5015 power supply because I had it on hand and know it is real copper.  Also I didn’t solder any of the larger wires to the fan board or the switch, but used crimp connectors.  Soldering large wires to that little board didn’t appeal to me and the solder creeps up the stranded wire stiffening it.
Pictures enclosed are from a DPS3012, but the wiring is similar. I used one nut behind the board so the connection wouldn’t loosen if the plastic of the binding post insulation started to compress and I used some internal tooth lock washers. 

[RobertHolcombe]

If you did want to use larger diameter wire you could solder it to the pads without poking through the board; treat it like a large plane rather than a through-hole.

[ledtester]

Thanks for all of the tips. It took a while, but I finally got it assembled. Attached are some pics.

Some things to note:

1. I really liked Gregg's idea of using crimp terminals and connecting to the binding posts where possible. I soldered the other switch connection as others suggested - along the plane of the board.
2. I found it too difficult to use the supplied fork terminals for the binding posts, so I substituted them for ring terminals. It was just too difficult to hold the connector in place while tightening down the screws.
3. The clearance between the +/- terminals on the main board is really tight. The upright connectors on the DPS3012 look better suited for a small enclosure like this. I had to use electrical tape to prevent the +/- IN fork terminals from touching each other (and I'll do the same on the +/- OUT terminals for good measure.)
4. I determined the gauge of the wire supplied with the enclosure kit to be 14 AWG (or its metric equivalent). The supplied fork terminals were too big, however. Fortunately the DPS5015 itself came with some smaller gauge fork terminals which worked better.

Thanks again for all of the help!

[RD Tech]

as the designer, it is ok for this ...
because you need weld it ,not only plug in

[RD Tech]

now we have new producst DPS8005
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/RD-DPS8005-programmable-constant-voltage-current-Step-down-power-supply-module-Voltmeter-Ammeter-buck-converter-80V/32849962454.html
there are 3 version, No communication version, USB communication version , USB+BT communication version.
Input voltage: 9-90V, output 0-80V/0-5.1A, Most function are same to other DPS series power supply.
But this time, there is new function for PC software, data download and data export.
You can download all file http://www.mediafire.com/folder/i1766ch7ec97a/DPS8005_file and there is a simple video : https://youtu.be/7SZcuMmvhtw
As the old rules, when new products was published, there is 4 days lower price.
Now no communication version 27.88 USD (normal price 33 USD)
USB communication version?30.43 USD (normal price 36USD)
USB+BT communication version: 32.98 USD(normal price 39 USD)
Only 4 days, please hurry… hope you like it
Lastly, there are 2 kinds power supply case, but they are not suitable for DPS8005, because the fan board MAX input voltage is 60v. but you can use the case, not use the fan board

RD official store https://rdtech.aliexpress.com/store/923042

[danadak]

Wire size table so you can select how much drop you are willing to tolerate.





Regards, Dana.

[RD Tech]

the wire connection is a little wired, but it is good ..
hope you like it

[RD Tech]

good work... thank you

[Gregg]

as the designer, it is ok for this ...
because you need weld it ,not only plug in

Can you please explain this a little more?  I don't quite understand what needs to be welded (or soldered ) and what you are referring to being plugged in.  I understand we have a language barrier and I am not being critical.
Thanks, Gregg