Author Topic: Working with flat-pack planar components  (Read 549 times)

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Offline MathematicalJTopic starter

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Working with flat-pack planar components
« on: January 17, 2020, 03:48:16 pm »
I have some vintage Soviet clone microprocessors I want to play with. They are in a . (They look like the images attached to this post.) I have never worked with this format before. The instructional video seems to describe a standard surface-mount component soldering technique. (Correct me if I'm wrong.)

But what about bending the leads? A specialized tool is used in the video (and in other videos in the series). I could fabricate such a tool, possibly with the help of my wife who does metalwork. The video also mentions duck-billed pliers, but that sounds a bit dangerous for a beginner like me. I'm worried that with pliers I will accidentally stress the lead at the component and damage the component internally. A quick-and-dirty solution is to clamp the leads close to the component body in a bench vice, using a couple of strips of flat metal so that the component body is not clamped as well, and then bend the leads.

I'm considering a third option: I could fabricate a solderless socket, perhaps an adapter to a DIP socket. Or maybe these already exist for this kind of package? Using a socket has the additional advantage that I don't have to commit the component to a single circuit forever. (I could of course solder the component to a socket/adapter as well.)

Has anyone had experience with these types of components? What advice do you have for me to minimize the chances I damage my flat-pack planar components?

Unrelated: I love old-school instructional videos like this. There's something about them that modern instructional videos can't reproduce.
 

Offline Jwillis

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Re: Working with flat-pack planar components
« Reply #1 on: January 18, 2020, 11:54:31 pm »
I've never worked with Soviet era microchips. But looking at how the package is constructed it appears the pins are soldered on to the package. Now I'm not sure of the characteristics of that particular solder used. It could be silver which would melt at a higher temp than lead tin solder. Of course that is a guess.
 I would try pressing a heat sink of some fashion across  the pins and then soldering the pins to your PCB pads. This would limit the  heat from propagating up the pin to the package. Ground the heat sink to your soldering iron to prevent possible ESD (Electrostatic Discharge) to the chip it's self.
 
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