| Electronics > Beginners |
| Yet another what DMM should I get thread |
| << < (7/7) |
| PA4TIM:
It does not matter what you choose, in this price range they are all more or less a toy/gamble, so choose the one with the functions you need and looks pretty, Use it until it dies (most times because you made a mistake) and then buy an other. For hobby and low energie stuff they all will do the job. Good meters (in every way, no compromise) will cost you much more. How much more depends on your needs. If you work on high energy stuff, or you need very good specs, or high stability, or a lot of digits,or high speed, or fool proof or very safe, etc the price goes up exponentially.I have an Aneng 8002 but it would drive me nuts if I really had to use it. |
| exe:
--- Quote from: tautech on June 01, 2018, 09:07:17 pm ---If you're willing to do a good bit more study check out Joe's excellent DMM testing thread: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/hear-kitty-kitty-kitty-nope-not-that-kind-of-cat/ --- End quote --- I'd say that thread is more of entertaining value, rather than a guide to buy a DMM. Chances to get a DMM killed are rather low (unless you do it on purpose). I'd say, a go-to DMM should have fast continuity testing and auto-ranging, a good big display, good current range (>=10A), fast bargraph, etc. I.e., it should have good usability in typical operations. Then the second/third/etc DMM can be more fancy: more precise, remote connectivity, two simultaneous measurements, etc. But that's far less important, imho. |
| rstofer:
--- Quote from: tautech on June 01, 2018, 09:07:17 pm ---Until you've owned one or two you won't really know exactly what you need (I didn't) so I could say a 6.5 digit bench DMM to cover most bases but that would be silly as you haven't got that kind of budget. --- End quote --- And probably no ability to control the signal to a level consistent with the ability to measure it. It does no good to measure with a micrometer if you are going to cut with an axe. |
| exe:
--- Quote from: rstofer on June 01, 2018, 11:04:44 pm ---Stay away from large battery banks (arguably including automotive batteries) and large capacitors as well. The meters are fused on the current ranges and, more often than not, the fuse doesn't have a suitable rating. So things get exciting when you measure voltage with the probes set for current. --- End quote --- Do you mean AC vs DC fuse rating? Yeah, this is true, most cheap DMMs have "only" 250VAC fuses. They are not even rated for DC. But I think for a few tens of volts it should be fine. |
| IanMacdonald:
The important thing is that it HAS a fuse on the current range. Seen a few cases of minor burns and/or destroyed meter when a DIY'er put an unfused meter across a car battery, forgetting to change the prods back to Volts. Provided it has some sort of fuse, even a cheaponasty glass one, this kind of accident will be averted. Having no fuse is the major safety issue with the very cheap meters, and the VC97 or AN800* are better choices as they do at least have fuses, even if not HBC ones. |
| Navigation |
| Message Index |
| Previous page |