Yet another what DMM should I get thread

[Discotech]

More meters > less meters.
If you build a power supply, a very common project, 4 meters are very handy to measure input/output. I'd take a duo of the others.

But which ones ?

I'm thinking the ZT30x's because they're the newest models, but newer doesn't always = better

I know they're cheap DMM's but I don't like wasting money whether it's 50p or £50 so I'd like to get whatever combination is the best for the money

Or is there relatively little difference between them ?

[tautech]

Ok so this is doing your head in. 

Until you've owned one or two you won't really know exactly what you need (I didn't) so I could say a 6.5 digit bench DMM to cover most bases but that would be silly as you haven't got that kind of budget.

If you're willing to do a good bit more study check out Joe's excellent DMM testing thread:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/hear-kitty-kitty-kitty-nope-not-that-kind-of-cat/

He's trying to bust DMM's with zaps that ordinarily a DMM won't get to see but this is about robustness that should be factored into any investment you make. The cheapest 'good' DMM is the Fluke 101 but it's fairly limited in capability.
A AN800* or a Uni-T will be good enough for now I expect. You should set your sights on having 2 main DMM's to use.

[Discotech]

Ok so this is doing your head in. 

I've decided to go with the ZT301 and 302 just because I have some eneloop rechargeable batteries sitting in a drawer doing nothing that I can stick in them 

[bd139]

Let us know how you get on

[rstofer]

It seems like cat ratings then are more suited towards actual electrical engineers in industry doing proper electrical stuff rather than aimed towards hobbyists who are only tinkering (unless they get adventurous and decide to rewire their home ?) So am I safe to assume for the sort of things I'll be doing (starting off with at least) the Anengs will be capable enough and if/when I want to move to more complex and higher voltage than what you'd find in synths then that is the time to move to a more expensive bit of gear ?

Essentially, yes.  If you can stay away from the mains, the source of high energy, you should be good to go.

Stay away from large battery banks (arguably including automotive batteries) and large capacitors as well.  The meters are fused on the current ranges and, more often than not, the fuse doesn't have a suitable rating.  So things get exciting when you measure voltage with the probes set for current.

As with anything electrical, you need to take care.  Check your meter setting before you jam your probes in a circuit.

Later on, you'll see why 10V stored in a 1 Farad Super Cap can release a LOT of energy if it gets shorted out.

I'm using the AN8008 interchangeably with my other meters.  I work with low voltage stuff on my bench and I don't give it a moment's thought.  For me, +-15V is about as high as I go.  If I were working on tube amps, I wouldn't change a thing.  The meters are fine!

I see no reason to work on line powered high energy SMPSs.  If I need a power supply, I'll just buy one.

[PA4TIM]

It does not matter what you choose, in this price range they  are all more or less a toy/gamble, so choose the one with the functions you  need and looks pretty, Use it until it dies (most times because you made a mistake) and then buy an other. For hobby and low energie stuff they all will do the job.

Good meters (in every way, no compromise) will cost you much more. How much more depends on your needs. If you work on high energy stuff, or you need very good specs, or high stability, or a lot of digits,or  high speed, or fool proof or very safe, etc the price goes up exponentially.I have an Aneng 8002 but it would drive me nuts if I really had to use it.

[exe]

If you're willing to do a good bit more study check out Joe's excellent DMM testing thread:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/hear-kitty-kitty-kitty-nope-not-that-kind-of-cat/

I'd say that thread is more of entertaining value, rather than a guide to buy a DMM. Chances to get a DMM killed are rather low (unless you do it on purpose).

I'd say, a go-to DMM should have fast continuity testing and auto-ranging, a good big display, good current range (>=10A), fast bargraph, etc. I.e., it should have good usability in typical operations. Then the second/third/etc DMM can be more fancy: more precise, remote connectivity, two simultaneous measurements, etc. But that's far less important, imho.

[rstofer]

Until you've owned one or two you won't really know exactly what you need (I didn't) so I could say a 6.5 digit bench DMM to cover most bases but that would be silly as you haven't got that kind of budget.

And probably no ability to control the signal to a level consistent with the ability to measure it.

It does no good to measure with a micrometer if you are going to cut with an axe.

[exe]

Stay away from large battery banks (arguably including automotive batteries) and large capacitors as well.  The meters are fused on the current ranges and, more often than not, the fuse doesn't have a suitable rating.  So things get exciting when you measure voltage with the probes set for current.

Do you mean AC vs DC fuse rating? Yeah, this is true, most cheap DMMs have "only" 250VAC fuses. They are not even rated for DC. But I think for a few tens of volts it should be fine.

[IanMacdonald]

The important thing is that it HAS a fuse on the current range. Seen a few cases of minor burns and/or destroyed meter when a DIY'er put an unfused meter across a car battery, forgetting to change the prods back to Volts. Provided it has some sort of fuse, even a cheaponasty glass one, this kind of accident will be averted.

Having no fuse is the major safety issue with the very cheap meters, and the VC97 or AN800* are better choices as they do at least have fuses, even if not HBC ones.