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| bmwm3edward:
First: Hat's off to David. You're out of control, and I agree with everything you've said thus far. I'm really getting into this EE stuff. But I am having a little bit of a challenge with these high density chip packaging (SOIC, SSOP, etc). I'd love to see some tutorials, even a video blog on how to get your SOIC chip onto a breadboard. Soldering tips for this, or whatever. Do I need special flux/solder? Breakout boards? I've seen some breakout boards that look better than others (eg, have solder in channels, already, etc). Special temperature settings, considerations? Best regards, Edward |
| KuchateK:
Did you google for SMD/SMT soldering tutorials? This site has pretty good one and they have videos. http://curiousinventor.com/guides/Surface_Mount_Soldering http://curiousinventor.com/guides/Surface_Mount_Soldering/101 This guy also has very nice videos. Drag soldering is cool. https://www.youtube.com/user/jkgamm041 Additional flux when soldering SMT components is almost necessary. SOIC to DIP adapters are available pretty much everywhere. You will also need male goldpins. It all comes to how much you want to pay. But I never had bad adapters, even cheapest I could find from china. If you don't have soldering station you really dont have to get anything expensive. But you can't save on tips. I have AOYUE 908 rework with hot air, but you can get 936 which is basically the same without hot air. The secret is that they are copies of old Hakko models. If you get Hakko tips (not "for hakko" but genuine "hakko", with logo on plastic wrap, each tip is wrapped individually) you'll have very good equipment at the lowest possible price. AOYUE tips coming with stations are useless. |
| bmwm3edward:
Great articles & videos. Very helpful. Thank you. I have a XYTRONIC AUTO-TEMP 379, but not sure if my tips are right for the small stuff (first try will be a SOIC, which isn't nearly as tight as those extreme density SMCs). My soldering station works great, but if I'll have to see if my tips are adequate. I'll have to go get a loupe and some flux and see how it goes!! With my past experience with heat I just cringe watching those guys drag their iron SLOWLY across those pins, but ... they must be designed for that! Thank you for the info... I'm sure this will be helpful to others too. Cheers, Edward |
| Andrew:
--- Quote from: bmwm3edward on October 20, 2009, 09:35:34 am ---With my past experience with heat I just cringe watching those guys drag their iron SLOWLY across those pins, but ... they must be designed for that! --- End quote --- Drag soldering? That is done with standard stuff. It is simple. A temperature controlled normal soldering station, and a chisel soldering tip do. A hoof tip would be slightly better, but is really not essential. I wouldn't be surprised to see drag soldering with an unregulated $5 AC soldering iron, but I never did it with one of these. What you do when drag soldering is that you essentially role a ball of melted solder over the pins with the help of the soldering iron. A little bit of the solder keeps sticking at the pins and pads, and also melts the existing tin on the pins and pads (if they are pre-tinned). That little (really not much) what "sticks" and solidifies makes the solder joint. The key is not the iron or the tip, but flux, flux and flux. |
| charliex:
as said drag soder with a chisel tip, takes a little bit of practice, good solder flux and an iron that'll give a consistent temperature and its not that bad at all, bit of copper braid to rmove bridges. check out http://www.schmartboard.com/ too. i saw a neat one yesterday that took some verobard in which that tracks were cut in half lengthways for a soic-8 |
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