The hobbyist working on low voltages definitely does not need an incredibly safe meter, and if the temptation to use it on a household circuit can be kept at bay, there is a very high chance the meter will survive for quite a long time. So, go for it.
Even if from time to time the meter is used around in the household (but away from the circuit breaker panel), there is an incredibly low chance the meter itself will cause personal injury - still a gamble, but incredibly low. The chances the meter will be destroyed are much higher - especially with my biggest pet peeve of the super cheap meters such as this one: the quality control. While certain meters have reasonable design and ergonomics, in my experience I have *always* found one of a few problems related to quality inside brand new meters: bits and pieces of solder or tiny metallic shards; loose springs, screws or even rotary switch leads, blobs of solder that reduce creepage distances to 1mm or less; massive amounts of flux residue with impurities that also reduce dielectric resistance. Another factor that contributes to the longevity of cheap meters is the current inputs: either unfused or merged with the V range. An inadvertent flip on the switch range is enough to short very high power lines (if used around on the outlets).
A very small probability of accidents can happen with voltage surges coming from the power lines. That is quite unusual and has unpredictable consequences, but a safer meter will have more chances of preventing the user from being harmed.
With any meter, always keep in mind that accidents happen when someone is most distracted or tired or misinformed - a gamble that has less probability of having terrible consequences if the meter is safer and better built.
The way I see these evaluations is that Dave, on his position of educating and influencing the crowds, is hard pressed to provide a verdict that is based on his own experience with several brands. If the quality is not comparable, I would want to know that his "grade" would reflect that, otherwise there would be a lack of reliance in his evaluations if the standard of a well built meter is reduced to cater to the ultra low cost audience.