EEVblog #1095 #1096 - ANENG Q1 Multimeter

[EEVblog]

A review and teardown of the new low cost $38 ANENG Q1 Multimeter
How dos it compare with the $25 AN8008?

[joeqsmith]

I wonder if the relay behaves like the Gossen.  If it changes stated from an external source does the meter let you know?  The Gossen does not have feedback to detect it so in the voltage mode, if it changes you have no idea.  The meter could have several hundred volts across it and you would have no idea.   A really poor design IMO.   Maybe this cheap meter does something right.

[joeqsmith]

The Ultra changing states with a hanger..

https://youtu.be/COuCsWDoI9E?list=PLZSS2ajxhiQBTCU8Mq_i9jidT024A0dV6

[joeqsmith]

Of course that POS couldn't even hang with the cheap meters in the chamber.   Damn these marketing people.....

https://youtu.be/wYuzFtoHMqg?list=PLZSS2ajxhiQBTCU8Mq_i9jidT024A0dV6&t=837

[NiHaoMike]

The 4K teardown looks great. Definitely much better than upscaling 1080p. (To be fair, the upscaling shader code is tuned for upscaling images of models, not PCBs!)

As for the meter, I have had plenty of problems with the rotary switch on meters used in the field. A bit of dust gets inside and the switch becomes intermittent until the meter is disassembled and cleaned. A pushbutton control or even a slide/rocker switch can be more robust with less to go wrong. Or even a dedicated low voltage socket like what the Mooshimeter has.

The display is a nice idea with a big flaw. I have seen a LCD that was black on white with ambient light but white on black with backlight. Any reason they couldn't have used that?

Aside from the display, if they add power measurement and Bluetooth, it can very well become a contender for top pick of the budget meters.

[EEVblog]

I wonder if the relay behaves like the Gossen.  If it changes stated from an external source does the meter let you know?  The Gossen does not have feedback to detect it so in the voltage mode, if it changes you have no idea.  The meter could have several hundred volts across it and you would have no idea.   A really poor design IMO.   Maybe this cheap meter does something right.

No, the relay is not mu metal shielded.

[Muttley Snickers]

I wonder if this meter will still work properly when powered at 3.6 volt to simulate using lithium batteries, I remember the Brymen BM235 didn't like the higher voltage lithium batteries and perhaps these are similar, certainly another thing to test.

[Barny]

Is this Meter the first legit use for Batteriser?   

[woox2k]

Is this Meter the first legit use for Batteriser?   

Came here to say this too. Batteroo sponsored this meter perhaps? Like this is the perfect example where batterizer would be actually useful.

[McBryce]

@Dave: You zoomed right in on the voltage reference and still didn't notice/comment on how ridiculously bad the soldering was on that part?

McBryce.

[Fungus]

I wonder if the relay behaves like the Gossen.  If it changes stated from an external source does the meter let you know?  The Gossen does not have feedback to detect it so in the voltage mode, if it changes you have no idea.

Is it as dangerous as the Gossen?

a) The ANENG seems to reset the relay state more often, and
b) The ANENG relay doesn't have any effect on the main voltage ranges, ie. It's not going to read 23V instead of 230V (or whatever it was the Gossen read when the relay was out of sync).

[Fungus]

For those who missed it, there's already been some discussion of these videos here:

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/new-aneng-q1-9999-counts/msg1605820/#msg1605820

[GeorgeOfTheJungle]

Dave you can fix that thingy: flip the polarizer and disconnect the backlight led.

[joeqsmith]

No, the relay is not mu metal shielded.

I ended up using Netic on the Ultra.   Of course, the Gossen was certified to be safe.  In this case, I think the standards are lacking. 

I wonder if the relay behaves like the Gossen.  If it changes stated from an external source does the meter let you know?  The Gossen does not have feedback to detect it so in the voltage mode, if it changes you have no idea.

I don't think it's as dangerous as the Gossen. The ANENG seems to set the relay state more often and the ANENG relay doesn't have any effect on the main voltage ranges, ie. It's not going to read 23V instead of 230V (or whatever it was the Gossen read when the relay was out of sync).

There you are, reading your 600V 100Amp power supply... all is well.. The meter comes too close to the magnetic hanger.  What's this 600V CAT III marked meter do?  It's not like you rotated a switch.   This meter may give you some sort of visual that the relay changed state, making it safer. 

The free Harbor Freight meters are now derated to 250V.   At least they were smart enough not to share the current input with the voltage input this time.  Still, it does need to handle 1000V plus margins across the open contacts.  Easy enough to try.   

[EEVblog]

Dave you can fix that thingy: flip the polarizer and disconnect the backlight led.

Nope, it's all embedded.

[EEVblog]

a) The ANENG seems to reset the relay state more often, and

There is basically no effect on electrical safety of the meter itself under normal use.
The lack of correct display would be another issue.

[EEVblog]

@Dave: You zoomed right in on the voltage reference and still didn't notice/comment on how ridiculously bad the soldering was on that part?

For probably the 10th time now I've had to comment on this:

This is common for hand soldered through hole parts, the solder didn't flow through from the bottom. It's not generally a problem, just inconsistency in the hand soldering. The bottom was soldered fine.

[GeorgeOfTheJungle]

I can send you some good quality adhesive polarizing film if you have none. Can't you peel off the one on the display?

[LapTop006]

I wonder if this meter will still work properly when powered at 3.6 volt to simulate using lithium batteries, I remember the Brymen BM235 didn't like the higher voltage lithium batteries and perhaps these are similar, certainly another thing to test.

Put a lipo pack in, and perhaps a Qi charge coil (likely easier than any other safe option) and you might actually have a really nice combo. Although that said, the only meter I've had with rechargeables was one of the Agilent ones where they tried to use a rechargeable 9v NIMH, it was always dead when I wanted it, even after only a week or two sitting unused after charging so I swapped in a primary cell.

[NiHaoMike]

I wonder if this meter will still work properly when powered at 3.6 volt to simulate using lithium batteries, I remember the Brymen BM235 didn't like the higher voltage lithium batteries and perhaps these are similar, certainly another thing to test.

A one cell lithium is actually 4.2V at full charge, might be too much if it runs a 3.3V microcontroller directly from the batteries. LiFePO4 would be near perfect with a voltage range that pretty much exactly coincides with that of 3.3V logic.

Dave you can fix that thingy: flip the polarizer and disconnect the backlight led.

I remember doing that to impress my friends in middle school...

[tszaboo]

Seriously, if your meter uses 16mA, just place a boost converter on the input. I like using Eneloops, and hate 9V batteries. But this one is just stupid, it wouldn't even turn on with those.
The VA display could mean Vertical Aligment.
But I still think the UT210e is a better second meter.

[Fungus]

Do you have any Batteroos with contacts still attached to them? How about a real-life test?

Maybe two wrongs can make a right? 

[Towger]

@Dave: You zoomed right in on the voltage reference and still didn't notice/comment on how ridiculously bad the soldering was on that part?

Sush...  He is still in denial that he needs glasses.   

[bitwelder]

Mod the meter by adding a Joule thief?

[Dave]

You called the fuses inside the meter HRC. They look like regular ceramic body fuses to me, not likely to survive a couple of kA fault currents through them. Do they advertise them as HRC?