Author Topic: EEVblog #1343 - DEAD Deck Cree LED's  (Read 1835 times)

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Offline EEVblog

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EEVblog #1343 - DEAD Deck Cree LED's
« on: October 19, 2020, 10:56:35 pm »
An update from EEVblog #50 (yes, #50!)
The CREE XPG LED's on the deck finally died and Dave needs a replacement, so time to hack some existing T8 LED tube lights.


#50:
 
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Offline Barny

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Re: EEVblog #1343 - DEAD Deck Cree LED's
« Reply #1 on: October 20, 2020, 09:59:49 am »
I used clamps for cable conduit tubes to mount my LED-tubes.
This could be a usable solution for you too.

You should get them in your hardware store for a couple of cent.
 
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Offline lowimpedance

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Re: EEVblog #1343 - DEAD Deck Cree LED's
« Reply #2 on: October 22, 2020, 01:49:06 am »
 What about tool clips , see thumbnail, in a suitable size. Readily available at Bunnings etc. Use say 4 for each tube.
The odd multimeter or 2 or 3 or 4...or........can't remember !.
 
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Offline coppercone2

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Re: EEVblog #1343 - DEAD Deck Cree LED's
« Reply #3 on: October 29, 2020, 08:43:03 am »
give that a paint job with aluminum primer and some nickel paint and it will probably last longer next time. Paint is the best protector here. Dremel flap wheel would clean up the old glue well

3m scotch bright pads will clean that up no problem (preferably drill mount) and prep it for painting. Unpainted metal suck. If its something that needs to look like real metal put some mothers magnesium and aluminum polish and car wax (requires maintenance). I have an aluminum table base thats outside in the rain for 1 year under a small table (its not well protected) and it only has minor hazing after 1 year, I have no doubt if I put mag polish and car wax on it before the winter it will look great next year (it was done to a mirror finish).

You will be surprised how well mothers mag and aluminum polish can clean up crusty aluminum if you use a buffer of some kind, I got stuff that I thought I would need to sand and completely refinish to near mirror look with it (used proxxon tool bases).

I think its worth doing because the backing strip is beefy, that is a high quality heat sink and undoubtably your power system is more advanced and it might be more pleasant to the eyes with 50hz lighting

Keep in mind the green kitchen pad is not the best tool here, that might require a brown hardware store pad, and using that mag polish with the pad does still seem to improve removal rate (chemical help), that stuff does some kind of reaction with the aluminum oxides. Worth getting a small buffer for the car anyway, that will pay itself off with wax jobs.. just don't fall too deep into the finishing hole from car finishing guys (OCD like crazy).

I can't stand any flickering lights because it reminds me of old yellow city lighting... screw that crap

I made something similar for indoor lighting using high quality strips on aluminum flat bars. Not perfect but worth it because I got 100% coverage under the rafters.
« Last Edit: October 29, 2020, 08:59:49 am by coppercone2 »
 


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