Ah, the irony!
I've been working on my own hack for my Hakko 936. Doing an LED hack like Dave's on a 936 requires the handset socket to be de-soldered just to get the faceplate and the PCB separated so that the LED can be accessed. Because of this and since I can't easily see the LED anyway (my bench top is seriously cluttered), I wasn't going to bother with an LED hack.
Call it feature creep or whatever but I changed my mind. Heck, I had one whole pin not doing anything on my microcontroller!
![Grin ;D](https://www.eevblog.com/forum/Smileys/default/grin.gif)
One of the restrictions that I've put on myself for this particular project is that I'm going to only use parts that I have on-hand. So when I went looking for an LED to use, guess what I found? Yep, you guessed it: a red/green bi-color common anode 5mm LED--12 of them actually. Yep, the exact LED Dave was looking for. I bought them from one of those clearance sites so there's no telling what the story is with them.
To add to the irony, like I said, I need to drive the LEDs using the last remaining pin on my MCU. Which basically means I need a circuit nearly identical to the one Dave showed in his video. LOL.
So thank you very much Mr. Dave Jones.
By the way, the LED in my hack isn't going to replace the normal heater indicator LED. I'm going to drill a hole in the panel and the LED is going to be a power indicator. I'll use green for normal operation and probably make the LED blink red when my circuit shuts the station down. (Or maybe I'll use yellow so that the LED isn't confused with the heater LED.)
If you still need some of those LEDs, Dave, let me know. I'll drop them in an envelope and send them your way.