The ones inthe video are preheat start. The initial condition when mains is applied is that the starter glows, and this heats up the one electrode inside which is made from a bimetal strip. This then shorts out the glow bottle, and this high current heats up the tube filaments. After a second ortwo the bimetal cools and breaks contact, this then interrupts the current through the ballast, generating a high voltage pulse and applying about 600V across the tube, enough to start it conducting. The tube then draws a constant current and generally drops from 50V to 100V, depending on size, age, temp and fill gas. This is less than the 90-150V required to start the glow bottle in the starter and it stays off. As th tube gets old and the voltage drop increases it will eventually try to start continuously, giving the flashing of an EOL tube. If left long enough the filaments go open circuit from the repeat starts ( only on T12 tubes, T8 do not do this often) or the starter goes short circuit ( the tube is out with orange ends) and the fitting draws typically 3 times the normal power until it burns out, if poorly designed or made.
The other method is to have a magnetic ballast that provides 4VAC to each heater, and provides a 600VAC current limited supply to the tubes. This is Rapid start, and typically starts the tubes without flashing in under a second.
The last method is Instant start, where the heaters are shorted together ( either in the end cap which has one pin or in the socket) and the tube has 1-2kV applied to cold start it.
Most electronic ballasts ape preheat, either using a capacitor and varying the high frequency voltage applied depending on load, or use a PTC thermistor to do the heating during startup.
The LED replacements can only be used with preheat systems, all others need rewiring and ballast removal, as well as a sticker inserted to warn about the LED tubes only being replaceable with the same, not a regular tube.