Author Topic: EEVblog #411 - MiniPro TL866 Universal Programmer Review (Read 1030535 times)

Shock · « **Reply #1925 on:** October 29, 2020, 11:25:09 pm »

I don't have that adapter but here is some info I found after a quick search, is it this problem? The programmer firmware rollback is a workaround obviously.
https://proghq.org/wiki/index.php/TL866_TSOP48_adapter

There is also a substitute firmware to turn a board into a V3 please check though if it's the latest firmware and info on this, as I've not done it.
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/blog/eevblog-411-minipro-tl866-universal-programmer-review/msg936055/#msg936055

Other than that I'd be verifying the programmer works on anything. Then pay close attention to the seating and orientation of the adapters and device. If you have just taken it off the board this includes cleaning and removing excess solder/flux/corrosion. Sometimes some slight pressure helps with intermittent contacts and sockets may need cleaning as well.

Have you used the programmer before? Are you saying you cannot perform a successful read? Are you getting a specific error? You can try turning the "check device ID" off. Attach some detailed shots of the front and back of the adapters so they can be identified and how you are orientating or setting them up.

parkerlewis404 · « **Reply #1926 on:** October 31, 2020, 03:34:41 pm »

The programmer itself appears to work as I can read other devices that don't use the TSOP48.

However looking at the images and the link to program the adapter's attiny13 chip to be v3.. my adapter doesn't have any active-ics! I ordered the wrong one (tl866ii)

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33014215074.html

So now I ordered a tl866cs v3 adapter,
https://www.ebay.com/itm/TSOP-32-40-48-complete-standard-Adapter-set-for-TL866-programmer-no-soldering/321496089532
hopefully that will fix it, thanks for the links!

TheSteve · « **Reply #1927 on:** November 17, 2020, 04:23:21 am »

Replaced the USB connector on my TL866plus tonight. It has sucked since I got it. The USB plug would frequently fall out. Not a good thing when programming stuff, it could also have easily lead to a brick during a firmware update. At least it was easy to change. If anyone else has a sloppy jack I recommend it be replaced.

Greybeard · « **Reply #1928 on:** November 23, 2020, 08:23:24 am »

Can FM18W08 and FM16W08 (FRAM) be programmed by TL866A ?

I could not find them in the compatibility list:
http://www.autoelectric.cn/minipro/MiniProSupportList.txt

There are still TL866A available on ebay, how probable is it, to get a counterfeit?

TheSteve · « **Reply #1929 on:** November 23, 2020, 08:43:21 am »

You need the newer plus model to program the FM series of FRAM parts. If you buy an older A/CS there is a 99.9% chance it's a counterfeit as they've been discontinued quite a while. I have both and would only buy the plus model. The only limitation is the max Vpp programming voltage which is only needed for some EPROM's and there is a work around if needed. The plus also lets you program 1.8 volt parts.

Greybeard · « **Reply #1930 on:** November 23, 2020, 11:46:15 am »

Quote from: TheSteve on November 23, 2020, 08:43:21 am

...the newer plus model...The only limitation is the max Vpp programming voltage which is only needed for some EPROM's and there is a work around if needed.

That's the other problem.
I cannot understand, why the manufacturer did not support 21/25V anymore...

Is there a workaround from the manufacturer?

Does the TL866A counterfeits work reliable?

ebastler · « **Reply #1931 on:** November 23, 2020, 05:38:24 pm »

Quote from: Greybeard on November 23, 2020, 11:46:15 am

I cannot understand, why the manufacturer did not support 21/25V anymore...
Is there a workaround from the manufacturer?

I guess the large majority of customers is not interested in programming legacy EPROMs, so XGecu are not losing a lot of the addressable market and could probably save a few pennies in the design.

The manufacturer's workaround is to sell you the more expensive T56 model...

http://forums.xgecu.com/redirect.php?tid=19&goto=lastpost

Shock · « **Reply #1932 on:** November 24, 2020, 10:48:30 am »

Quote from: Greybeard on November 23, 2020, 11:46:15 am

That's the other problem.
I cannot understand, why the manufacturer did not support 21/25V anymore...
Is there a workaround from the manufacturer? Does the TL866A counterfeits work reliable?

There is a workaround, you inject a few more volts when programming. But it requires modification or messing around with a custom adapter, then there is the software side of it. But it's not manufacturer supported no.

"Are TL866A counterfeits reliable?" is an age old question. An easier one would be "Can they be made reliable if needed?". Which I think is yes, the circuit has been reverse engineered so you can build and flash one as reliable as you like.

Greybeard · « **Reply #1933 on:** November 24, 2020, 01:12:54 pm »

Thanks, I think I'll order a new TL866II+, and add some self-made adapters for 21/25V, if I need them.

Is there a 50ms pulse mode for those stone aged UV-EPROMS?

Pedro147 · « **Reply #1934 on:** December 01, 2020, 09:25:16 pm »

Hi guys. I bought this TL866II Plus programmer on Ebay https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TL866II-Plus-Programmer-Suite-USB-2-0-TL866-USB-EPROM-EEPROM-7-Adapters-Socket/164171018343?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=463800793745&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 to use for working on Macbook "BIOS" chips. Cleaning ME region and the like. I am a bit out of my depth here although I have done some firmware flashing on various drone flight controller and receiver projects in the past. There was no software link on the Ebay vendors site, but after some Googling I found this site http://forums.xgecu.com/viewthread.php?tid=20&page=1&extra=#pid23 and installed their software. I seems to see my programmer but I just wanted to ask you guys in the know if this seem's like my best option for software to use with this no doubt Knock-off product. Thanks in advance.

Shock · « **Reply #1935 on:** December 02, 2020, 06:16:55 am »

The cloners can call their programmer whatever they like. I would double check if it's the older TL866CS/A first as they are no longer sold and widely cloned. The page linked below is the official page where you can find dealers links and photos to identify if you have a clone TL866CS/A model at the PCB level.
http://www.autoelectric.cn/en/tl866_main.html

If it is a TL866CS/A clone then obviously you want that software instead. The developer has clone detection in his software to partially brick clones at a firmware level. This should be able to be reversed on a TL866CS/A which is discussed in this thread your reading.

If it's different it might pay to upload some images of the PCB so someone can tell you if it's the same layout as the newer TL866II Plus model or not. If it was me and it looked like a fake/clone of ANYTHING I'd be lodging an Ebay/Paypal dispute for a full refund (unless you specifically wanted a clone that is). You shouldn't have to send a counterfeit product back.

There are good reasons for owning both a genuine or clone TL866CS/A AND a genuine TL866II Plus, one is that the TL866 Plus model only supports programming voltages up to 18V. Other than that unless someone has brought from that specific seller who knows what it is. Their advert states from between 3.3V to 21V so that is wrong for a TL866II Plus model for a start, it should be 1.8V-6.5V VCC and 18V VPP.

Pedro147 · « **Reply #1936 on:** December 02, 2020, 08:05:39 pm »

Quote from: Shock on December 02, 2020, 06:16:55 am

The cloners can call their programmer whatever they like. I would double check if it's the older TL866CS/A first as they are no longer sold and widely cloned. The page linked below is the official page where you can find dealers links and photos to identify if you have a clone TL866CS/A model at the PCB level.

thanks for the link I will check it out

Quote from: Shock on December 02, 2020, 06:16:55 am

If it is a TL866CS/A clone then obviously you want that software instead. The developer has clone detection in his software to partially brick clones at a firmware level. This should be able to be reversed on a TL866CS/A which is discussed in this thread your reading.

Thanks I will read back through the thread and hope that I don't have to go through the potential hassle of unbricking it if it is a clone. I suspect (read hope) that it is simply the earlier version

Quote from: Shock on December 02, 2020, 06:16:55 am

If it's different it might pay to upload some images of the PCB so someone can tell you if it's the same layout as the newer TL866II Plus model or not. If it was me and it looked like a fake/clone of ANYTHING I'd be lodging an Ebay/Paypal dispute for a full refund (unless you specifically wanted a clone that is). You shouldn't have to send a counterfeit product back.

To be honest as long as it works for my Macbook BIOS stuff I will be happy

Quote from: Shock on December 02, 2020, 06:16:55 am

There are good reasons for owning both a genuine or clone TL866CS/A AND a genuine TL866II Plus, one is that the TL866 Plus model only supports programming voltages up to 18V. Other than that unless someone has brought from that specific seller who knows what it is. Their advert states from between 3.3V to 21V so that is wrong for a TL866II Plus model for a start, it should be 1.8V-6.5V VCC and 18V VPP.

I don't think that the lack of being able to handle higher voltages will be an issue in my case but thanks for the heads up.

MRCMRC · « **Reply #1937 on:** December 03, 2020, 05:58:40 pm »

Quote from: vobs on February 27, 2015, 08:10:13 pm

For programming an old 2732 EPROM on my TL866 I designed a quick&dirty adaptor to apply an external 25V programming voltage, see attached schematics.
Works like a charme :-)

Hi there,

Has someone succeeded in programming 2732s with a T866II Plus? Even using this Vpp raiser circuit, I can't program them. I've read about the insufficient programming pulse width used by the software. Is there anyway to change that parameter, or an alternative to the official software that can do that? Any trick for programming 2716s and 2732s with this programmer?

Thanks in advance!

galaxy76 · « **Reply #1938 on:** December 14, 2020, 04:01:21 am »

Hi everyone. i just bought a TL866II PLUS. reading the thread I realized that there are risks in updating the firmware of this product. the TL866II PLUS may be locked. and as i understand there is no way to unlock it, as you can do with the tl866cs / a.
so I ask:

1) is it really necessary to update? can I use the TL866II PLUS with the latest 10.53 software without being forced to update the firmware?

2)are there fake clones of the TL866II PLUS? possibly how can i find out if mine is original?

TheSteve · « **Reply #1939 on:** December 14, 2020, 04:24:23 am »

I'm not aware of any fakes of the 866 Plus (yet anyway).

I am pretty sure you need to update the firmware in the programmer if you want to use the newer PC software.
I've had no problems updating mine, but I am sure to do it when nothing else is running on the PC and no cables etc are being moved.

galaxy76 · « **Reply #1940 on:** December 14, 2020, 02:14:32 pm »

thanks, I will use version 8.01. It seems that this should match the factory-loaded firmware.

anyway, if it were to brick, is there a way to unlock it today?

galaxy76 · « **Reply #1941 on:** December 16, 2020, 07:32:08 am »

i bought a chinese eprom erase 4w 254nm (grey) . I have to delete some Chinese eprom m27C4001. how many minutes does it take? thanks

Circlotron · « **Reply #1942 on:** December 16, 2020, 11:17:06 am »

Quote from: galaxy76 on December 16, 2020, 07:32:08 am

i bought a chinese eprom erase 4w 254nm (grey) . I have to delete some Chinese eprom m27C4001. how many minutes does it take? thanks

For a good eprom, 10 to 15 minutes should about do it. I've used several thousand M27C801 Chinese eproms and on the rare occasion I've had to erase one they take 1-2 hours. They are branded ST but scrape off the black paint and they have some Chinese writing underneath.

galaxy76 · « **Reply #1943 on:** December 17, 2020, 12:22:06 pm »

thanks. I've read a lot of bad things about Chinese eproms. I eventually found and bought some original but expensive eproms. I preferred to buy good memories than recycled Chinese junk

Circlotron · « **Reply #1944 on:** December 17, 2020, 12:41:25 pm »

Sure. The ones I have been using are supposedly 100nS access time but in reality are about 1uS. Quite okay for my application though. Also, with a "good" batch about 1 in 50 fail programming. I have had bad batches where about 3 in 10 fail programming. Reliability has been fine though, with some having run 15 years now.

TheSteve · « **Reply #1945 on:** December 17, 2020, 06:58:21 pm »

Quote from: galaxy76 on December 14, 2020, 02:14:32 pm

thanks, I will use version 8.01. It seems that this should match the factory-loaded firmware.

anyway, if it were to brick, is there a way to unlock it today?

You might find there are issues with the older versions, many bugs have been fixed. I have done many firmware updates, no issues so far.

galaxy76 · « **Reply #1946 on:** December 17, 2020, 08:55:20 pm »

i have read almost every page in this thread and some have had problems and stuck their TL866II PLUS. of course it is really absurd that this does not unlock and the old ones do. this is my fear.

galaxy76 · « **Reply #1947 on:** December 17, 2020, 08:58:53 pm »

anyway which operating system is best suited? win XP: win 7 32 or 64 ?: win 10? usb 2.0 or 3.0 ports? are quite a lot of questions, but it could make all the difference when updating the firmware

galaxy76 · « **Reply #1948 on:** December 23, 2020, 09:18:59 am »

meanwhile, the eproms have arrived. they look original. what do you think?

[attachimg=1]

frischky · « **Reply #1949 on:** January 21, 2021, 07:14:48 am »

Finally picked up one of these units... went for a TLS866a from overseas, knew it was a clone as there is no legitimate source of the A/CS models anymore.

Right out of the box, I was getting read errors (writing is not a problem) on W27C512 and Atmel AT27C512Rs (from a legit source) when trying to read or verify.

Self test fails 9 out of 10 times, with GND 4/ZIF 4 coming back as a fault. I've looked at Radioman's schematics, but I am not exactly on the level of probably 90% of the people here when it comes to rework (nor do I have their confidence).

If it was a constant error, obviously I would think a bung component or dodgy soldering being a culprit, but I can get it to pass the self-check about 10% of the time.

So I turn to your collective wisdom and ask, where do I start looking to try and track down the issue?


EEVblog Main Site	EEVblog on Youtube	EEVblog on Twitter	EEVblog on Facebook	EEVblog on Library

Author Topic: EEVblog #411 - MiniPro TL866 Universal Programmer Review (Read 1030535 times)

Share me