our soldering lady (we have a person in my lab that hand assembles small series, she's mil-spec soldering approved) swears by the following approach :
flip the chip over , flux in the thermal pad. apply dot of solder on a wide tip and then apply solder on the heat pad
apply flux on the board.
put chip on the board
re-heat using hot air , or using the iron form the backside.
the advantages are :
solder does not have to 'wick' upward through the via's. you never know how many actually make contact. by applynig a dot of solder on the pad first you are sure the entire pad is covered in solder. this also goes for paste. there is no risk of 'voiding' or poor wetting. you have already wetted the entire surface.
over solder paste the advantage is that there is no risk of 'not enough solder' : meaning voiding and bad thermal contact. it also avoids having small droplets or balls of tin underneath the board
Now, in Dave's video notice that he is using a solder mask defined pad. there is a square of copper and the solder mask defines how much copper is exposed. this is different from a copper defined soldering pad. here there is copper and an opening between the copper and the soldermask where the substrate is visible.
for packages such as BGA and MLF it is not advisable ot use solder mask defined pads. the problem is cracking of the solder mask. there is a risk that , under power , a remnant of lfux reacts with the solder and dendrites start growing.... eventually creating conductive pathways.
Always clean off flux !!!! i had it a couple of weeks ogo. a board that works fine.. and after a few days behaves weird i had 100k ohmson certain pins, ther pins were 30 ohms. flux remnants ! when i applied power to the board ( nothing was heating up , this is like a 10mA conumption board ) i coudl actually see the fluxstart to bubble between component pins. after about half an hour there was resistance ! let it sit under power overnight and the flux had 'caramelised' itself to be about 100 ohm ...