There you go, expecting another big wave of price hike on used scopes with broken lcd.
So now with the LCD fixed, you could make use of the service manual by fixing the scope input, Dave.
EEVblog #808 - Fluke 196 Scopemeter Repair - Part 2
Once he knew or watched your video, he will hate you, just look the number of repairs he sold.
Oh wow, 56!
Says he replaces something though. I don't suspect my repair will be very reliable, I don't trust that conductive adhesive, it came loose for a reason...
Pretty much certain that scopemeterrepair.com uses NOS LCDs to replace the existing LCDs. This used to be big business back in the day with lots of standard hitachi graphic LCDs.
You can't really justify the hours spent on such a thing if you can buy OTS identical LCD modules (and maybe an adapter board) for a couple bucks wholesale.
We have the same Fluke 196 in our office. Your rants about Fluke's lack of LCD reparability & support bring back fond memories (Fluke stopped supporting & selling the LCD shortly after we purchased the 196). I think every tech here has had their hand at repairing it with various levels of success. The hot-bar never kept a good connection.
Now we just keep our 196 around as a warning to other Fluke meters should they decide to develop faults. I don't believe any meter should suffer the same fate as our 196.
Although I have to admit, when I saw that you had a repair video for the 196 (and when I peeked at the end of the video and saw the thumbs up), I was hoping you found a solution that we did not think of for a permanent repair! Nope - same Band-Aid repair.
Love the videos & keep up the great work!
-Mike AD0OY
When repairing hotbar connections, the pressure must be applied until the glue has cooled down.
You can also use a soldering iron set to <200°C with a clean tip for repairing. But you still have the problem applying pressure until the glue has hardened again.
VOGT was a German manufacturer of inductors and transformers. Now it is part of Sumida. Custom built transformers made by VOGT are quite common in all kind of products made in Europe.
Hitachi merged with Mitsubishi and formed Renesas in 2003. That was the end of of Hitachi beeing the most common manufacturer of lcd controllers and drivers.
When repairing hotbar connections, the pressure must be applied until the glue has cooled down.
That's what I was thinking...
I would have placed a bar of metal (old heatsink, whatever) across the strip using clamps then heat it up and let it cool before releasing.
Using This one?
That's perfect! I'll be opening up an eBay repair store in the next few minutes...
Excellent repair, Dave.
It's a shame that it's more of a meter than a scopemeter, though. Maybe that would make a good followup video?
I agree with Max66. Please finish the job. Get rid of the EEVBlog curse.
Wow Dave what a coincidence, you post a thread on trying to fix a scopemeter and it's the same night that I decide to summon up the courage to take my 196C apart to try and fix it as well.
The problem with mine seemed less drastic than yours the screen works great but it had recently stopped charging and would not operate from the mains adapter, yet still fired up with what was left in the battery (which is new). I must admit I was a bit more hesitant about taking it apart than you are but I fix air conditioners for a living and don't pull electronic stuff apart every day. So far the problem with mine appears minor, the power input connector is knackered as the centre pin has no continuity through the connector to where it goes down onto the PCB in the top corner.
So if you decide not to go ahead with trying to fix the scope section and are going to dump it I'm in Oz too and would happily dispose of the main board for you
I also found something really strange, it appears that the cooling fan on the back of the PCU unit has never been plugged in
I guess I really should start a repair thread on my unit instead of taking yours up.
Cheers
if the charger doesnt work check out the switching transistor v4102. they fry very easily ... small sot23-6 pin package. obsolete but can be replaced by a fdc666 if you snip off one of the pins. the original transistor has a unique pinout that nobody else uses.
Just a little aside: I think below that bodge cap there is a resistor
The university where I studied had one lab with a bunch of those scope meters and every single one of them had those horizontal lines all over the display.
Fluke refused to fix them since they were out of warranty. Apparently the lab doesn't buy Fluke equipment anymore.
The university where I studied had one lab with a bunch of those scope meters and every single one of them had those horizontal lines all over the display.
Fluke refused to fix them since they were out of warranty. Apparently the lab doesn't buy Fluke equipment anymore.
There was a number of displays that used similar technology that had the same reliability problems. A piece of amateur radio gear I own is notorious for the displays developing horizontal lines just after warranty.
Do the various chips that looked like they had a thin heatsink pad on them require heatsinks? Being at least one person has previously tried to fix it they may have removed the heatsinks. Or do the pads make contact with a metal shield when assembled?
I actually own a hotbar press for the anisotropic adhesive that is used on these things.
It is literally a PID controlled heating element and a machined copper shape attached to a press with a torque-reading gauge for an arm. It was $4000.
There was a number of displays that used similar technology that had the same reliability problems. A piece of amateur radio gear I own is notorious for the displays developing horizontal lines just after warranty.
Let me guess, an Icom IC-756 transceiver
There was a number of displays that used similar technology that had the same reliability problems. A piece of amateur radio gear I own is notorious for the displays developing horizontal lines just after warranty.
Let me guess, an Icom IC-756 transceiver
Same problem with the Kenwood VM-7. Think that model is correct.
Good job Dave. Now fix the scope