Author Topic: EBAY: LED Display Module FLUKE 8840A/42A (DIY Kit) replace broken, damaged VFD  (Read 24456 times)

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Offline Crambone

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Just ordered one like the blue better, I always hated green.
 
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Offline AHOLTopic starter

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Thank you for the order.
To be precise, they are with a wavelength of 480-485 nm.
Close to cyan. ;)
 

Offline AHOLTopic starter

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I am updated the listing.
Welcome: https://www.ebay.com/itm/155392809126
 

Offline staticresident

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Another order in!  They are going fast. 

Thank you for hanging in there to make more. 
 
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Offline AHOLTopic starter

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Hi to all. A few more modules.
Welcome: https://www.ebay.com/itm/155422029090
 
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Offline TomWinTejas

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Many thanks to AHOL for bringing this to market, it is a dramatic improvement and well worth the money and effort.  I am as newbie as one can get and was able to do the swap without damaging my 8842A.  I'll share my notes for any other total newbies, most of you can ignore what's likely obvious advice.

The disassembly guide in the owners manual was quite good.  I was nervous removing the switch extension rods because I was afraid to break anything plastic, but the switch parts were all quite sturdy.  When putting the extension rods back in place I did support them from under where I was applying pressure so there would be less pressure and that worked nicely.  I did manage to break one of the clips on the front panel where the screen board attaches to the metal frame.  I was able to use superglue to fix it, but with all of the pressure that didn't hold up.  But in the end it didn't matter as once the board is screwed into the front bezel everything is held in place (whew!). 

I didn't have a crimper for the included crimp ends and wound up using my precision needlenode pliers to do the crimp.  I tried pulling it off with a lot of force to test it and it didn't budge... so it was good enough.  I did find that for my 8842A the blades for 5V and GND were larger than the crimp end, so it was tricky getting them on... I had to use pliers to really push it down and even then I could only get them half way down. 

I was able to get away without removing the main board.  If you remove the plastic clips holding the board in place you can shift the board down enough to angle the screen board to remove and re-insert it.  I have the RMS AC module and did have to remove that. 

It was tricky desoldering the VFD, but I don't have much desoldering experience.  Even after it appeared to be desoldered there was enough solder in the thru-holes to bind the pins.  Liberal application of flux with the braid wasn't enough, nor was a solder sucker... but applying some fresh solder worked like a charm.  Others mentioned how fragile the pads are at high temperatures and perhaps I just got lucky, but with my Hakko 888D at 550F, I didn't have any problems.
« Last Edit: March 12, 2023, 06:59:32 pm by TomWinTejas »
 
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Offline Crambone

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Installed mine the other day, very simple installation and looks great!

Thanks
 
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Offline AHOLTopic starter

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Hello all!
I am glad to announce that fresh ;D modules are on sale.
Welcome.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/155514220604
 
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Offline AHOLTopic starter

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Attention buyers from regional eBay sites!!!

Shop online at ebay.com
The discount is valid only on .com, where everyone bought with a discount (from different countries).
This is probably due to the fact that regional sites are separate sites, and you need to create a separate listing there.

Happy shopping.
« Last Edit: April 21, 2023, 07:56:45 am by AHOL »
 

Offline AHOLTopic starter

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Hi to all!
Thank you for shopping!
Another small batch of modules are on sale:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/155540541685

Welcome.
 
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Offline Kjo

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For anyone looking for a quick turnaround on fully assembled Fluke display assemblies (#728873),
I now have them available using our new assemble PCB and the AHOL blue LED module. I am one of AHOLs
biggest customers, and no display repair on the Fluke 8840A/42A would be possible with out his development effort.

I have customers who just can't do the de-solder/solder rework reliably. I started by pre-wiring AHOLs modules.
But I always wanted a mechanical-only replacement. So I bit the bullet and re-engineered the Fluke display PCB
to work with both the AHOL blue LED module and our graphic OLED mono-color programmable display module.

Our module cannot compete with the AHOL display. But I hope that, with several avenues of repair, many more Fluke
8840A & 8842A meters will be saved from the scrap heap!


I have included a few pictures and links.

eBay
https://www.ebay.com/str/hollywoodcontrols/Suplus-Equipment/_i.html?store_cat=985206012

website
https://www.hollywoodcontrols.com/phpFluke/HC700013P.php

kjo KO3Y
 
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Offline Kjo

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An update for this thread:

For anyone looking for a quick turnaround on fully assembled Fluke display assemblies (#728873),
I now have them available using our new assemble PCB and the AHOL blue LED module. I am one of AHOLs
biggest customers, and no display repair on the Fluke 8840A/42A would be possible with out his development effort.

I have customers who just can't do the de-solder/solder rework reliably. I started by pre-wiring AHOLs modules.
But I always wanted a mechanical-only replacement. So I bit the bullet and re-engineered the Fluke display PCB
to work with both the AHOL blue LED module and our graphic OLED mono-color programmable display module.

Our module cannot compete with the AHOL display. But I hope that, with several avenues of repair, many more Fluke
8840A & 8842A meters will be saved from the scrap heap!

The Fluke disassembly procedure should be followed. Dont try to shortcut.
Disconnect everything from the front panel including 2 16 pin ribbon cables.
Remove power bottom switch arms and F/R sw arm and cal sw arm.
Remove bottom shield. 
Remove 4 front panel screws.
Release ALL 6 main PCB rivets without breaking them.
Release main PCB below frame about 1.5".
Remove face plate.
release 2 plastic clip retainers from metal frame.
Remove display assy from frame. This is challenging.

Insert new assy as old one came out. The fit is tight, but it will go in!
Once in place, reverse everything and inspect before hooking up 5V display power!

You did unplug the meter from the mains....
You did use a static guard on your wrist...




I have included a few pictures and links.

eBay
https://www.ebay.com/str/hollywoodcontrols/Suplus-Equipment/_i.html?store_cat=985206012

website
https://www.hollywoodcontrols.com/phpFluke/Fluke_LED_Display.php
kjo KO3Y
« Last Edit: July 13, 2023, 04:46:48 pm by Kjo »
 
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Offline AHOLTopic starter

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Hi to all!
Thank you for shopping!
Another small batch of modules for sale:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/155681025627

Welcome.
 
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Offline AHOLTopic starter

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Hi to all!
Thank you for shopping!
We continue to rebuild our FLUKEs :)

New small batch here:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/155853129116

Welcome.
 
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Online coromonadalix

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Nice to see some extra life given to theses meters ...  :-+

aging vfd's  is a nightmare on many brands ...
 
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Offline watchmaker

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Hi to all!
Thank you for shopping!
We continue to rebuild our FLUKEs :)

New small batch here:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/155853129116

Welcome.

I installed two of these.  Both from eBay.  One that was pretty much assembled, the other from Ukraine where you solder the header pins.  Both are easy, all the time is in getting to the display.  $80 USD vs $40 USD.  The boxes were exactly the same.

Both meters look identical as far as the displays go.

I can recommend either.  Its like everything else, the parts are cheap compared to the installation.
Regards,

Dewey
 
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Offline AHOLTopic starter

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Hi to all!
Thank you for shopping!
We continue to rebuild our FLUKEs :)

New small batch here:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/155853129116

Welcome.

I installed two of these.  Both from eBay.  One that was pretty much assembled, the other from Ukraine where you solder the header pins.  Both are easy, all the time is in getting to the display.  $80 USD vs $40 USD.  The boxes were exactly the same.

Both meters look identical as far as the displays go.

I can recommend either.  Its like everything else, the parts are cheap compared to the installation.

I am the developer and sole producer of this module.
All other solutions on the market use the module purchased from me.
I only sell on eBay under a nickname:
grudn_2015


My shop on eBay:
https://www.ebay.com/str/aholstore


The price at which I sell the module (without shipping and taxes): - $34.4

The set is sold only in the form shown in the photo:



« Last Edit: November 01, 2023, 11:43:35 am by AHOL »
 

Offline Paceguy

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I bought mine from AHOL who's located in Ukraine and the originator of these displays. There are other ebay sellers who are profiting from his work and selling them at a higher price. I was very pleased with AHOL's professionalism and fast service considering the conditions he and his fellow countrymen are living through. I suggest that one buys them from AHOL.
 
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Offline watchmaker

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Please do consider the Fluke 45 display.  I do not care about fonts; and I suspect others agree.  My display is just a little dim, and I would not attempt rejuvenating it unless there is no other option.

Regards,

Dewey
Regards,

Dewey
 
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Offline AHOLTopic starter

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Please do consider the Fluke 45 display.  I do not care about fonts; and I suspect others agree.  My display is just a little dim, and I would not attempt rejuvenating it unless there is no other option.

Regards,

Dewey

Thanks for the suggestion, maybe I'll try something later. Now is not the best time :-[ for new projects.
 

Offline enut11

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Thank you @AHOL. I received my display kit 3 weeks earlier than forecast!
The only problem was that we were about to go on holidays  :(
Back now and looking forward to getting my 8842 back in service.
enut11

PS
5 stars for customer service
an electronics nut from wayback...
 
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Offline enut11

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Just finished installing @AHOL's LED display in my Fluke 8842A DMM. Mostly went well and the effort was well worth it as the display is now brilliant. I purchased the basic kit so had to remove the old display from the Fluke PCB and install the new one.

Notes on my experience:
1) Follow the Fluke dis-assembly and re-assembly instructions in the manual step by step otherwise you can run into problems.
2) I removed the old display from the front PCB by pressing the glass back and forward until all the pins broke. I then de-soldered and removed the individual pins one at a time.
3) Cleaning up the holes on the Fluke PCB is important for proper fitting of the new display. My less-than-perfect cleanup meant that I had a small problem soldering the new pin headers.

On note 3) above, I suggest using longer header pins. In the photo below the kit header pins are at the top. The bottom set is about 4mm longer and this would have made a difference because the original pins barely went through the Fluke PCB.

All in all, a great upgrade for an 8842A with a dim or blank display.

Thanks a lot @AHOL

enut11
an electronics nut from wayback...
 
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Offline AHOLTopic starter

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Thank you @AHOL. I received my display kit 3 weeks earlier than forecast!
The only problem was that we were about to go on holidays  :(
Back now and looking forward to getting my 8842 back in service.
enut11

PS
5 stars for customer service

Thank you for the kind words!

I believe that these words should be addressed more to the employees of our post office, who risk their lives every day, delivering parcels.
 
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Offline AHOLTopic starter

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Just finished installing @AHOL's LED display in my Fluke 8842A DMM. Mostly went well and the effort was well worth it as the display is now brilliant. I purchased the basic kit so had to remove the old display from the Fluke PCB and install the new one.

Notes on my experience:
1) Follow the Fluke dis-assembly and re-assembly instructions in the manual step by step otherwise you can run into problems.
2) I removed the old display from the front PCB by pressing the glass back and forward until all the pins broke. I then de-soldered and removed the individual pins one at a time.
3) Cleaning up the holes on the Fluke PCB is important for proper fitting of the new display. My less-than-perfect cleanup meant that I had a small problem soldering the new pin headers.

On note 3) above, I suggest using longer header pins. In the photo below the kit header pins are at the top. The bottom set is about 4mm longer and this would have made a difference because the original pins barely went through the Fluke PCB.

All in all, a great upgrade for an 8842A with a dim or blank display.

Thanks a lot @AHOL

enut11

For soldering, I use a gel-like flux with good immersion and a high intensity of the effect of penetration into the seams. High wetting, high strength of connections.
 

Offline AHOLTopic starter

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Thanks to everyone who bought my module. Happy and accurate measurements to you!

We continue to bring the wonderful FLUKE 8840/42A multimeter back to life.
New batch of modules here:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/156079740588

Best regards,
AHOL
 
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