Author Topic: 3D Printer yet?  (Read 66929 times)

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Offline metrologist

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Re: 3D Printer yet?
« Reply #125 on: October 23, 2018, 03:55:36 am »
Guise! I keep getting these blobs after being well into the print. The bottom part of the image and all the rest is fine, but hopefully you can see the blob happening there. The nozzle smacks into these blobs. It's odd because it happens almost identically on the same parts, for example I was printing 8 of these and they all had the same problem at the same spot. The rest of the infill looks practically flawless. That blob is nearly as high above the current printing surface as the part is thick!  I measure the part thickness at 0.61mm and the total height at the blob is 1.42mm :scared: Oh, the bottom first layer is perfect under that too. It would have made it to the 4th layer, 0.15mm before stopping the print..

These are designs I downloaded and wonder if there is not something inherent in the design of the part? Another thing I notice is smaller defects arise from the plastic curling up behind the nozzle. Usually that gets "ironed" down on the next layer.

Any ideas?

Oh, I measure the raft and bed height seems perfect. Rafts measure 0.2 or 0.15mm, correlating to the slicer settings...
« Last Edit: October 23, 2018, 04:02:46 am by metrologist »
 

Offline ANTALIFE

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Re: 3D Printer yet?
« Reply #126 on: October 23, 2018, 06:31:07 am »
First thought you are extruding too much filament, here is what I would do:

Check your actual filament diameter with some calipers, though it might say 1.75mm you are likely to find it being a bit higher/lower. Make sure to measure at multiple points and then average the value. Change setting in slicer and try again, tell/show us how it goes

Offline metrologist

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Re: 3D Printer yet?
« Reply #127 on: October 23, 2018, 02:11:03 pm »
I am definitely going to have to start writing things down and labeling the parts. The bulkhead is large and the rest looks good, so it's a puzzle of how to fix it given they all had that same spot fail. Also, the fuzzy part closer looked to be under extruded on some, I could see some very small voids, but the surface there was smooth and mostly complete. I'll see if all the settings can be exported to a spreadsheet as bringing them up in the GUI is cumbersome and not as easy to spot changes.

I was having some other problems printing small (5x6mm)rivets. The best looking one in upper center (1) came from a lot of 16, where one did not adhere to the plate. I tried printing one-off using the same slicer settings and the results were far different. The lower right (2) was the first try and it looked over-extruded and too hot, and it wiggled off the bed. I made changes to the printer by tuning the print speed lower to help with bed adhesion and hopefully let it cool while printing upper left (3). It at least finished but still looked too hot or over extruded, and it wiggled on the bed. I resliced with a brim, then lowered the temp in the upper right (4), then lowered the flow in the lower left (5). These were just small changes, one click of the dial moves a value from 100% to 96%, for example. Nozzle is set to 200° It might be this PLA, I was having great prints with another black and the sample white.

One more thing I can say is that this orange PLA runs out a lot during the end of initial heating, I do not recall that on the other colors... :box:
« Last Edit: October 23, 2018, 02:13:14 pm by metrologist »
 

Offline CatalinaWOW

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Re: 3D Printer yet?
« Reply #128 on: October 23, 2018, 03:47:02 pm »
I have found printing multiples very different also.  The cooling time before the next pass changes greatly.  Same kind of effect based on size of part.  I am thinking of making an enclosure to make the temperature warmer and more stable.  I'm sure that will require a whole new round of optimisations, but maybe less sensitivity to size and quantity.
 

Offline beanflying

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Re: 3D Printer yet?
« Reply #129 on: October 24, 2018, 01:33:18 am »
Not sure about your slicers but Sli3er Prusa had the option for sequential printing so one after the next rather than layer by layer for all. You just need to spread the bits apart to clear the print head and allow for the height of the tallest object. I have done it both ways but for buts you need better strength or quality then sequential.

The filament runout sensor microswitch on my CR-10 fell apart from having a knob of plastic pulled backward past the blade  :palm: I had some leftover limit switches from my CNC mill and I wasn't happy with the 'upgraded design' I printed from thingiverse some months ago for the stock board. So off to fusion 360, swap the 3 pin jst header for a 4 pin one, chop down the board a bit, print the new design and off it goes again. My Filament rolls sit on top on the CR-10 like the Ender so some sweep on the design is built in along with a Teflon liner as per the pictures. Version 1 with a vertical board just didn't work so re rolled the design and built a dustcover into it too. Cable holder is included to bring it more inline with the Bowden tube than the stock one. If anyone wants the STL's let me know but it is built with top mount spools so won't suit the stock CR-10.

There is also an Ender version spun out of the same design if anyone wants it for personal use. I only did this as I was made a very good offer by Creality on another Ender Pro with a glass bed  ::) I have attached the STL below for this one, just snip a bit of bowden tube, smooth the end and push it in to the stop point (about 3mm inside the outlet point) If the Bowden it to tight to push in then warm the print as needed to soften it a little.
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Offline metrologist

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Re: 3D Printer yet?
« Reply #130 on: October 24, 2018, 01:46:48 am »
This is a small pumpkin (~17mm diamter) I printed a few days ago using Cura's "vase" mode, spiral contour or something like that. It is thin as anything and impressed me to death. Such a night and day difference to my rivet... I've made several of these with full top as earrings using the default fine 0.15mm layer setting...this one broke the top off with handling...
« Last Edit: October 24, 2018, 01:49:20 am by metrologist »
 

Offline beanflying

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Re: 3D Printer yet?
« Reply #131 on: October 25, 2018, 05:29:59 am »
So I built a light pipe/box to use up some leftover Labware. 0.8mm walls on the sides and box and no need for fasteners to hold the 3mm base on. Russian Dolls might be the next model  >:D

Still need to play with what goes in the tubes but I am leaning toward Glow in the dark pebbles (concrete industry) filled to the top with resin to cut down the dusting. Then how much light under it is the next thing.

Getting the supports out of the pipe section was a   |O !

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Offline metrologist

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Re: 3D Printer yet?
« Reply #132 on: October 25, 2018, 02:04:42 pm »
I missed your filament guide post. It looks sturdy. I tried a clip-on one from thingiverse and it does not stay. Now I'm just using a plain old drinking straw to keep the filament off the lead screw. That has been a potential issue for so many printers I'm not sure why they haven't addressed it?
 

Offline beanflying

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Re: 3D Printer yet?
« Reply #133 on: October 25, 2018, 10:22:48 pm »
Like the filament runout sensor Creality shipped with initially it was an add on from the original CR-10 so it just slid over the mount. Any side or vertical loads dragged the filament into the lead screw  :palm:

The STL for the Ender is in the Zip file above. Print it with supports from the bed ONLY (or your hole get filled  >:D ) at 0.1 or 0.15 layer height and give it a go.
« Last Edit: October 25, 2018, 10:25:45 pm by beanflying »
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Offline beanflying

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Re: 3D Printer yet?
« Reply #134 on: October 27, 2018, 01:25:37 am »
3D Printer Yet?  YES :-+

Four Custom tools to make stripping and reassembly of one of my coffee toys easier. Yes the tools are available but for the wrong side of $200 commercially. Lever Spring clamp, Spring compressor, Piston Removal Nut, Piston Insertion tool. Stripped de-calcified after 8 years of ownership, new seals and teflon guides all round and sipping the reward  8)
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Offline beanflying

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Re: 3D Printer yet?
« Reply #135 on: October 31, 2018, 07:35:18 am »
Doing battle with cloud based Fusion 360 without terrestrial broadband is a major PITA (contractors cut the line during an 'upgrade' still two more days of BS). Seems you need internet to export STL's from it so tethering to a mobile periodically  :wtf:

Couple of this weeks projects.

Arthritic or Damaged hand Crown decapper. Either Twist or just push down. Works a treat this one is off to a worthy cause.

Double overhead adjustable spool holder. Will take 150 or 200mm drums with clearance spare  2nd Ender Pro at work on most of it. 20 hours plus  :-+

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Offline metrologist

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Re: 3D Printer yet?
« Reply #136 on: October 31, 2018, 02:54:59 pm »
I'm still having mountain ranges. My last print I wanted to complete so heated the scraper and "ironed" them down during the print. Once they start they just seem to grow, but only and consistently in the same places. I've tried temps and lower seemed to help a bit, like 195, but then I'd have more adhesion problems. I tried lowering extrusion and that helped a bit, but then under-extruded in other places and adhesion problems. The mountains start on the first few layers where there is solid fill. Once I ironed them down the print usually gets into a partial fill and will be fine.

I also cut a glass bed. It was a little thicker glass than I wanted, but that's what was there. Adhesion is fine once I get the flow going, which is hit and miss at the start. PLA is not sticking as well to the glass and could break loose later in the print, and once the glass cools it is ready to fall off, so I need to keep the bed hot. I may try to find a place to sand blast one side. I thought sandpaper would cause scores and might crack.
 

Offline CatalinaWOW

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Re: 3D Printer yet?
« Reply #137 on: October 31, 2018, 10:35:57 pm »
Finally getting somewhere on this.  The first picture shows a gallery of the attempts to print a replacement knob for a Tektronix scope, running left to right.  The farthest left is my best attempt at resin casting these.  Wasn't getting there.  The next three are my first attempts at printing.  They aren't bad, which is good, I might have given up on the whole idea if the ones in the middle had come first.  The shape is not right due to depending on the low cost version of TurboCAD.  The model doesn't match the original perfectly, but was fully functional.  The faceting is obvious as is the lack of taper in the fluted section of the knob, but the banding turns out to be a heated bed failure I mentioned earlier in this thread.  The next three are after a switch to FreeCAD.  The model now matches the original very well but but the prints are sparse due to a couple of things, the interface between the model details and the slicing program and problems in the extruder nozzle.  A couple of software updates on the slicer program (Cura) didn't help either.   Switched material for the rest, primarily for a better color match, but also hoping for help in the fill and strength.  The rest of the way to the end is just working through details in slicer/print setup and for extruder problems.  The final result in the second picture is fully acceptable to me, in spite of a few minor remaining flaws.  I think I know where to look for those and will hopefully improve future efforts.

I hope others can take hope from all of the failures and realize that there really is a light at the end of the tunnel.
 
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Offline beanflying

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Re: 3D Printer yet?
« Reply #138 on: October 31, 2018, 11:24:48 pm »
I'm still having mountain ranges. My last print I wanted to complete so heated the scraper and "ironed" them down during the print. Once they start they just seem to grow, but only and consistently in the same places. I've tried temps and lower seemed to help a bit, like 195, but then I'd have more adhesion problems. I tried lowering extrusion and that helped a bit, but then under-extruded in other places and adhesion problems. The mountains start on the first few layers where there is solid fill. Once I ironed them down the print usually gets into a partial fill and will be fine.


Lower Temps will reduce the viscosity of the molten plastic and so reduce oozing. That isn't a solution due to the poor layer adhesion so put that back to 200-205 (what I use on generic evilbay PLA).

1: Measure your filament some of mine has varied from 1.69 - 1.75, may not sound like much but it is over 3% which translates to under extraction if you are set at 1.75. Raising the extrusion multiplier to mask this isn't correct set it properly as a diameter in your slicer.

2: Setting an extrusion multiplier. Mark a bit of filament at 100mm apart and manually set your printer to extrude 100mm, check where the back mark is and set your multiplier based on that for a start. My CR-10 got tweaked to 1.03 and as I based my Ender profiles on that they are also 1.03 and are producing the results as per the photos.

3: Blobbing will be generally systematic and patterned as it related to retraction and to what I have seen if step 1 & 2 are somewhere near it then that is the case. Speed and amount of retraction are what you should have control over in your slicer. This is best done by experiment and I produced many many Benchy's playing with this  ::) In the end 3mm retraction and 40mm/sec worked well on PLA on my printers.

4: If your Blobs or mountains can't be fixed by this then my only other thoughts would be one or more of your axis is tight or loose causing inconsistent acceleration of the head. So basically the head passes one point to slow so it over extrudes. This isn't likely IMO but just a thought.

Be systematic, change ONE setting at a time print a sample, observe, add a note to the sample and tweak and repeat.

Only one more day of tethered internerd or else you !@@#ing contractor  :horse:
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Offline beanflying

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Re: 3D Printer yet?
« Reply #139 on: November 01, 2018, 06:54:55 am »
Got inches millimetres to spare  ;D Room for 8 rolls of filament and two on the rollers. Most likely remount most of the electronics under the cabinet, add some additional heating if needed and certainly an exhaust for ABS or other similar plastics.

Sometimes not everything can be fixed with 3D printing but hotsnot and self drilling screws are also needed. Aldi gas lift chair repair btw.

Woohoo slowDSL2band is back on.
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Offline CatalinaWOW

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Re: 3D Printer yet?
« Reply #140 on: November 03, 2018, 02:29:22 am »
One of my problems - not yet totally resolved - is blobbing which is caused by leakage around the back of the nozzle.  Tightening the nozzle has helped but I am already beyond Gootentight(with the hot end heated).  Haven't found a torque spec, and even if there was one it would be meaningless in a used hot end with residual polymer in the threads.  Most times I check tightness there is no obvious bottom, but one two occasions there seemed to be a bottom.  Either the nozzle loosens during operation or these weren't bottoms as I have subsequently been able to get more turns.

So one more possibility for you to look at Metrologist.  Look for a slowly growing blob growing around the base of the nozzle.  When it grows to the tip it messes things up.
 

Offline beanflying

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Re: 3D Printer yet?
« Reply #141 on: November 03, 2018, 03:18:20 am »
You shouldn't be getting plastic between the s/steel barrel and the nozzle or near the threads. There are some very good videos on youtube about removing and reinstalling nozzles and setting the heat break correctly but the basis of it is to adjust the heat break so it mates flush with the back of the nozzle when tight. So install the nozzle back out a 1/4 turn then snug the barrel down reassemble then tighten the nozzle in lastly. If you don't do this you can get plugs of plastic stuck in this area which causes all sorts of extrusion or lack of issues.



https://youtu.be/tDq1Du9gaWM
« Last Edit: November 03, 2018, 03:20:33 am by beanflying »
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Online rdl

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Re: 3D Printer yet?
« Reply #142 on: November 03, 2018, 05:12:48 pm »
I think something like this must be what's wrong with the used Select Mini I bought a while back. It goes through the motions, but prints garbage. Now that I look, I can see plastic has oozed out where it shouldn't. I just don't have a real need to print anything right now. I guess it will go to storage for now. Good thing I didn't pay much for it, though it was probably too much anyway.

You shouldn't be getting plastic between the s/steel barrel and the nozzle or near the threads. There are some very good videos on youtube about removing and reinstalling nozzles and setting the heat break correctly but the basis of it is to adjust the heat break so it mates flush with the back of the nozzle when tight. So install the nozzle back out a 1/4 turn then snug the barrel down reassemble then tighten the nozzle in lastly. If you don't do this you can get plugs of plastic stuck in this area which causes all sorts of extrusion or lack of issues.
 

Offline beanflying

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Re: 3D Printer yet?
« Reply #143 on: November 05, 2018, 12:54:27 am »
As the costs of reasonable quality printers has dropped it makes it a tough sell for any branded secondhand printer. It's not just printers by any means either the secondhand market has been ratbagged across a range of industries.

Get it fixed make a design then sit up until after midnight Sunday waiting for it to finish so you can put the base on before you get to bed  :palm:

160mm diameter, 0.1mm layers, 0.4mm walls no supports. Was getting a little touchy on the top overhang but the shallow layers kept it going. Time to try out sli3er's new selective supports and see if I can complete the ball top and then remove them without destroying the thin walls  :scared:

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Offline beanflying

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Re: 3D Printer yet?
« Reply #144 on: November 07, 2018, 04:05:01 am »
So I cheated and printed a top cap to glue in. Much faster than printing and removing the supports from a full globe. It's actually a bit bright for the small room I am testing it in with a 4W filament type LED bulb inside (very low heat output). Shadowing isn't anywhere near as pronounced to the eye.

Trip down memory lane to a hammer I made in school about 35+ years ago. Nylon Injection molded heads have finally run out so until I get some nylon to play with PETG will have to do. The 7/16 14TPI thread printed really nicely at 0.2 layer.

Rhombicuboctahedron version 1 & 2 because #1 was never going to release from the supports I started with (Da Vinci never considered 3D printing when he drew it in 1509) |O Even the reduced support one was a PITA for over 2 hours of cleanup. There is an electronic'ish purpose for the structure.
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Offline beanflying

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Re: 3D Printer yet?
« Reply #145 on: November 09, 2018, 12:43:01 pm »
Several platters of printing finishing and gluing I have a 330mm spiky ball  :o

It is actually my take on a Moravian/Christmas Star which is based on the frame from a few days ago. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moravian_star There is a few variants already around for 3D printing but none where what I wanted in virtually frameless and certainly zero fill to keep it optically as pure as possible for no internal shadowing when lit.

I have a plan to make the frame printable in a couple of parts to remove the issue of supports and the removal of |O The spikes print easily with support for the first 2mm to cover the locator lip and they are single layer wide (0.4-0.5) which are plenty strong enough just a lot of them to print. Bit of cleaning up on the seams but simple.

Anyone interested in this I will rework the frame tomorrow and post up the STL's.

Lower spikes will get glued in after the LED's Lipo and other gear goes in.
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Offline Rerouter

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Re: 3D Printer yet?
« Reply #146 on: November 24, 2018, 09:41:18 am »
To the people having extrusion issues,

1. Pull down your extruders, most of the housings have a certain level of slack in the screw holes, so you can rotate it to adjust the fit, out of the box mine prevented the release bar from properly tensioning on the filament, so I was getting poor layer adhesion and voids, and bumping up the multiplier just made things worse (leave him at 100%),

2. Measure your retraction when cold at the top of the extruder, the filament has a certain amount of stretch, so while holding the release down, note how much you extra you can push / pull at the top of the extruder, for Cartesian with direct extruders this is likely very small, but for deltas, it can be mm,

3. Have a look into your printers extruder settings if they are available, most that I have seen have there jerk rates set way too low, and acceleration too low, meaning there are times your controller is waiting for the extrusion to catch up to your motion rate.

4. for PLA, cooling is key, Even and complete coverage is best, on my delta I printed a duct to lightly blow air over the whole circumference but not directly on the nozzle, it doesn't need much in the way of flow rate, you just want the filament to solidify a few mm from when it exits the nozzle so its ready for the next layer on smaller shapes.
 
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Offline beanflying

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Re: 3D Printer yet?
« Reply #147 on: November 25, 2018, 11:07:23 pm »
Busy playing with my new 1000x600 CNC Router but still running some 3D printing jobs as needed.

Needed a mitre box for aluminium sections so I rolled one out (based on a lightweight flyscreen one) rather than wait for a decent one from overseas that would have cost me more $ anyway. Designed for 30x30mm maximum (180 long) but could easily be scaled up if you need. I printed mine at 4 layers and 30% infill but maybe do another layer or two if you want it really rigid. STL files in the ZIP if you want.
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Offline beanflying

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Re: 3D Printer yet?
« Reply #148 on: December 02, 2018, 07:34:41 am »
In need of a Kris Kringle present for that 'special' someone? This could be the answer.

Thanks or No thanks to the TEA thread the a Rude Octopus turned up so off to Thingiverse I went https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2986959

I randomly built a 555/4017 chaser circuit a while ago for fun and a demo job pre 3D printers came into my shack. Randomly the diameter of the LED's fits perfectly into Occi's errr 'feeding hole'. The effect of the rear finger is now animated and oscillatory in nature and I think works nicely. Plenty of room inside for circuitry, LED's and or a battery (or tealight as intended) but I will most likely do a variation on the chaser.

If you decide to build it watch the bottom surface it isn't dead flat so some supports are needed for the lower layers. Sorry for the poor low light video too.

https://youtu.be/UJGe3Onw5Fo
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Offline beanflying

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Re: 3D Printer yet?
« Reply #149 on: January 07, 2019, 12:38:18 am »
Interesting test on Breakdown Voltages of thin PLA shims. The Video is VERY LONG but the basics of it show single layer 0.2mm (single layer) breakdown about 10kV. Maybe not something to use as a reference for commercial production but good for confidence on your own projects.

https://youtu.be/ZqXQRq8As1o
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