General > General Technical Chat
Best lens for macro electronic components
Zucca:
Thanks to TiN for his excellent guides:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/how-to-make-decent-photographs-for-forum-postsarticlespublications/
https://xdevs.com/guide/hwphoto/
anyway I would like to know what are the macro lenses you use for shooting electronics components/circuits.
Yes I know the right light is the key to success, but I am now shopping for a new macro lens and before I pull the trigger I would like to know what you guys are using.
Ah my new horse is a Canon R6, so I am looking at the RF Macro lens, but I am open to everything.
What do you suggest?
EDIT: First on my list
Venus Optics Laowa 100mm f/2.8 2X Ultra Macro with Canon AF version
https://www.venuslens.net/product/laowa-100mm-f-2-8-2x-macro-apo/ref/515/
Kleinstein:
If the purpose if the pictures is more for documenting / finding faults one may not even need a dedicated macro lense. A "normal (e.g. 100 mm)" lens and additional conversion lenses to put in front may be good enough and much cheaper. A main down-side of the cheap way is often chromatic aberations and some lack of compfort (e.g. actual aperture and focal distance is not what is seen on the lense). This may be an issue for artistic pictures, but less for fault finding. Good (bright) light is also important, as one may use a relatively small aperture (e.g. 1/16) to get more depth of field.
For macro shots I use a Sigma 105 mm DG Macro HSM with a Nikon D5300.
For electronics pictures the focal length is a bit on the long side as one may need quite some distance - for insects this is nice.
alm:
In my opinion comfort features like being able to go from high magnification to lower are very useful. For example taking an overview shot of a large PCB and then a close-up of a dry joint. Or autofocusfor low magnification work. Autofocus is useless at 1:1. Linear distortion might also be important.
My absolute favourite lens for documenting electronics is the Nikon Micro-Nikkor 70-180mm. The short end is just short enough to capture a 19" rack enclosure in one frame, while the long focal length and high 1:1.33 magnification ratio allow for capturing small details without worrying about shadows. Unfortunately, this lens is discontinued and I'm not aware about any current real zoom macro lens, as opposed to a regular telezoom that marketing slapped a macro badge on.
I don't think you need a 2:1 lens for electronics. A 1:1 already let's you fill the frame with a piece of a pcb the size of your thumbnail. The majority of shots will be at much smaller magnification.
How big are the pcbs you're working on and how big is your space? I've had to climb on chairs to fit a large pcb in my frame. I'm wondering if something like a 60-70mm macro lens wouldn't work better. What current lenses do you have? What focal lengths do you use for electronics pictures?
Zucca:
Thanks for all the comments.
I should add I have a 20-70mm f2.8L and I need something to get closer than that.
--- Quote from: alm on August 10, 2022, 10:07:47 am ---I don't think you need a 2:1 lens for electronics. A 1:1 already let's you fill the frame with a piece of a pcb the size of your thumbnail. The majority of shots will be at much smaller magnification.
--- End quote ---
True but if I pull the trigger I would like something to cover me if I need to get a details of a cold joint.
mawyatt:
If cost is a concern look to the Raynox DCR-125 and 250 add on Lenses, these are very usefully and work well, and should do a decent job with your Canon 20-70mm. We used these often and they also work well as a "tube" lens working with infinity type microscope lenses for getting down to detailed chip images. BTW be sure to get the necessary "ring" adapters for the lenses you would like to use with the Raynox.
Dedicated macro lens are usually very good, especially the ones from the camera body OEM, but can be somewhat expensive. Recall the Venus Optics did receive some good reviews.
A couple important things to consider when working at macro levels, the subject to lens distance is important because the further the lens front surface the better because of getting "quality" lighting around the subject. Others are vignetting and image edge distortion and focus.
Also consider a sturdy tripod, rather than trying handheld, our experience with image stabilization at macro and below levels has't been good.
Caution: Quality images fo electronics can become addictive, if you get "bit" prepare to open your wallet, and a deep study into optics ;)
Don't ask how we know this ???
We can elaborate on our progress and developments from ~2000 if interested, but don't want to clutter up the thread.
Anyway, you have a fun journey ahead enjoy :-+
Best,
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