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| cleaning a flaky ZIF socket? |
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| SgtRock:
Dear Mightyohm: --You can find a 40 pin gold plated DIP socket at Digikey for $2.81 at the below link: http://parts.digikey.com/1/parts/297142-40-pin-solder-tail-dip-socket-40-6518-10.html --And you can find a 40 pin gold plated ZIF socket also at Digikey for $13.92, see below link: http://parts.digikey.com/1/parts/297076-40-pin-zif-socket-gold-40-6554-11.html --Digikey's shipping is very reasonable. If these are not perzactly what you need, just let us know, and we will find you something that'l do er. Please let us know how the desoldering goes. Best Regards Clear Ether |
| Milacron:
--- Quote from: mightyohm on August 25, 2011, 12:59:45 pm --- SgtRock and Milacron - thanks for the suggestions on cleaners. Both of the ones mentioned are quite expensive (particularly Stabilant), costing more than a new socket. I guess I need to trade this off against the possibility of destroying the Dragon by trying to remove the ZIF. --- End quote --- I hear ya, but you don't buy Stabilant for one project. One tiny bottle may last a decade or more, as you typically only need a few drops of it per incident. |
| Excavatoree:
Mightyohm - Your profile indicates you are in the US, so shipping won't be prohibitive. I'd be glad to change your socket as I have an antique, through-hole re-working soldering iron/vacuum pump. Send me a PM if you are interested - but I understand if you'd rather not send your board to a somewhat complete stranger with unverified skills. I used to use the hand vacuum pump to remove 64 pin, DIP package CPUs from VCRs - holding the soldering iron with one hand with the pump in the other, sucking the solder, pushing the plunger against my leg, and continuing - 64 times. (or more if one try didn't get all the solder out of one or more holes.) I was very happy when the boss bought me an ancient de-soldering tool. It did not have a vacuum pump - it connected to an air compressor and used a venturi to suck the solder. (In fact, I'd like to have one of those - they seemed to be more reliable.) (Sorry everyone, at least I was somewhat on-topic (removing through hole components) with this rambly post.) |
| mightyohm:
Sorry, I missed the original recommendation to use hot glue. I've done that in the past, with some success. Using a machine pin socket sounds like a good idea too, and $3 is acceptable. :) Does Chipquick work well on thru-hole parts? I've never tried it. Excavatoree - Thanks for the offer to help! Let me see what I can do here with my dremel and my solder sucker. It will be a few days as I am traveling this weekend, but I'll report back next week with my progress. |
| SgtRock:
Dear Mightyohm: --Yes it works. I just removed a 24 pin DIP socket using it, since I did not want to possibly destroy the socket or the board. It should not be any problem if your iron has enough mass and enough heat to do the job. I use a Hakko 936 with a converted wand to carry larger mass 908 tips. I have the larger chisel tip mounted. Since you were talking about desoldering I assumed you had more than more than enough iron to do the job. I should have explained further about the heat masses involved. --You just have to be able to keep the ChipQuick above the melting point of the solder holding the DIP pins. It seems hold heat for a very long time. All it does is greatly increase the total mass of the the material in contact with board, the pins and the meniscus of the solder around each pin. So the surface area of contact between the ChipQuick and the target solder and pins is quite large, relatively speaking. I think any but the wimpiest iron should not have any trouble elevating the temperature of the ChipQuick well above the melting point of even silver solder. The flux you get with the kit seems to work well and the material clumps up rather well, allowing you to push it off of the board rather easily, with out it trying to join up with everything else. You just have to let it start to solidify then push it off the board with your iron. It actually much easier that it sounds. ChipQuick is hypoeutectic, that is it does not a have sharp melting point. ChipQuick also contains Gallium which lowers its plastic melting range, it key feature. When the ChipQuick is just starting to solidify is is well below the melting point of ordinary solder, and will not try to join up when you push it away. --It is quite possible a solder pump will work without the Dremel. It will almost certainly work if you eliminate the socket from the board side using the Dremel. Just be careful. I know a guy that lost an arm. Best Regards Clear Ether |
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