General > General Technical Chat
cleaning a flaky ZIF socket?
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alm:

--- Quote from: mightyohm on August 25, 2011, 03:58:53 pm ---It's a black Aries socket with tin plating on the contacts.  I have no idea what part number it is, or whether it is genuine - it was cheap and came with a PIC programmer I purchased several years ago.

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My guess is that it's a fake then. Genuine Aries/3M sockets are not cheap, at least $10. Most cheap Chinese ZIF sockets I've seen have Aries/3M branding and part numbers, but are a lot flimsier than the real thing. A real one may survive for longer.

I don't see the worry about damaging the Dragon, it's not that expensive. Plus you can still use the ISP, JTAG and debugWire features, which are the hardest to get. You could also make a simple PCB with a ZIF socket and ISP header. I would only use the internal socket for high-voltage programming, which needs a lot more pins.
mightyohm:
This weekend I went out and bought a Hakko 808 desoldering tool - this made quick work of removing the 40 pin ZIF socket.  What a useful tool!  I wanted to get a wand type instead of the gun style, but the 808 is relatively inexpensive and more importantly was available at my local electronics store (Fry's).

Once the socket was removed, I installed a machine pin DIP socket (the one SgtRock recommended) and a new Aries ZIF socket and everything is working fine now.  The ZIF seems to stay in the socket just fine, but if it starts popping out I'll hot glue it in place.

Thanks for all of the help and suggestions.  My AVR Dragon is working better than ever and now I have the desoldering tool I secretly wanted.   :)
SgtRock:
Dear Mightyohm:
--Congratulations on the Hakko 808. I would like to get one myself. The Fry's price of $152 seems very tempting. Could you please desolder entire boards 8 hours a day for a while and report back. Just kidding. What is your opinion of the 808 as an industrial tool. How long would it last in heavy usage, can it be kept in service with regular maintenance, replacing tips, etc.? I only want your best guess. I have two Hakko 936s, with one converted to use 908 heavy duty tips for desoldering. I also have a Weller 300 watt gun for big jobs. I am going to get a vacuum desoldering setup. I just do not know exactly what to get. Advice by any and all would be welcomed. Best Regards
Clear Ether
IanB:
The reviews of the Hakko 808 suggest it will not disappoint. However, Radio Shack sells a desoldering tool for $11, which I am going to try out. The Hakko is undoubtedly better, but can it be 15 or 20x better?
Uncle Vernon:

--- Quote from: mightyohm on September 04, 2011, 07:32:40 pm ---Once the socket was removed, I installed a machine pin DIP socket (the one SgtRock recommended) and a new Aries ZIF socket and everything is working fine now.  The ZIF seems to stay in the socket just fine, but if it starts popping out I'll hot glue it in place.
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The one recommended after recommending magic spray, LOL.  ;D


--- Quote from: Uncle Vernon on August 26, 2011, 12:41:52 am --- I'm surprised at the need for hot glue in BAW's solution, like he and Jeff I've experienced similar issues, but found that if the regular socket below the ZIF was a quality machined item, the force needed to dislodge the ZIP was substantial. Yeah I know. two expensive sockets, but I figure if you only get 80 odd years on the planet the least amount of that time you spend redoing repairs the better.

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To be pedantic with the attribution BAW suggested a practical and working solution, I added input from personal experience and from this Mr Rock was able to locate a suitable part. Teamwork albeit from a somewhat less than cooperative team.


--- Quote ---Thanks for all of the help and suggestions.  My AVR Dragon is working better than ever and now I have the desoldering tool I secretly wanted.   :)
--- End quote ---
Yep, one and all lived happily ever after, all except the evil peddlers of sprays and goops who had to shut up shop due to poor sales and the GFC.  Glad to hear all worked out well.  8)
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