| General > General Technical Chat |
| Copper plating nickel covered brass contacts |
| << < (4/4) |
| Buriedcode:
Well, just an update. Got some Kester 44, and it worked beautifully. :-+ Each contact took around 2 seconds to solder, and it wetted so easily I didn't bother just tinning the second contact before soldering the wire, just do it all in one. I also tried it on some DC barrel sockets that have always given some grief when soldering - even when using large mass tip, took a few seconds to "take" at least some solder - and that pretty much instantly wetted. The stuff I have is leaded, so I'll have to pick up some SAC305 with 44 in it for work, but I'm completely sold. I didn't realise there were fluxes that could do nickel without requiring extensive cleaning afterwards. --- Quote from: mawyatt on August 10, 2022, 11:06:53 pm ---One could use a very "aggressive" flux and tin all the terminals, and clean them IPA. Then use a "normal" flux and solder to attach the wire. Best, --- End quote --- That was my backup plan if this 44 stuff didn't work. Just tinning the joints using the harsh stuff then cleaning. --- Quote from: Cerebus on August 10, 2022, 11:33:59 pm ---Perhaps turn the problem on its head. You said "requires higher temperature, by which time the plastic housing becomes soft". I've fixed that problem before by cooling the plastic. It just needed something as simple as wrapping as much of the plastic part as possible with wet paper towel (making sure to include the part where the metal and plastic join). Messy, not elegant, but it got the job done. That solution of course requires that your part is situated where you can afford to have water slopping about and that you have enough room between the "bit to be soldered" and "bit to be kept as cool as I can". --- End quote --- The sockets - like IEC figure 8 sockets - have a recess which I suppose could have water flowing into/out of it, but soldering near running water, it all sounds like a massive hassle. Thankfully, with the decent flux I can solder the terminal before the other end of the pin is too hot to touch, let alone melt plastic. I still use a custom moulded plug to hold the pins more or less in place whilst soldering jsut incase. Thanks folks. I was almost looking forward to trying out plating as I haven't done it in years (had limited success with plating copper over solder years back) but it's an expensive experiement to try, not to mention messy. |
| Kleinstein:
An important part with plating is cleaning the surface. So if the "nickle" (maybe zinc ?) surface does not solder well, it may as well not plate well. |
| Buriedcode:
--- Quote from: Kleinstein on August 12, 2022, 09:58:45 am ---An important part with plating is cleaning the surface. So if the "nickle" (maybe zinc ?) surface does not solder well, it may as well not plate well. --- End quote --- I emailed a couple of plating companies that sell "kits", and whilst of course they want to sell their products, all suggested some form of activator (that removes protective oxides and sometimes etches the surface). Some can clean and activate at the same time. From what I remember of my brief experiments years ago it wasn't just an important part, getting the surface clean and activated was probably the most difficult bit. Definately more hassle than its worth. |
| Navigation |
| Message Index |
| Previous page |