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| DEADLY WIRING FAULT ; Atten 858D+ Hot Air Rework Station |
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| saturation:
The simplest thing to try for any hot air reworkstation is a calibration procedure, to determine how the output setting is set and if its correct. Now, how the hot air output from the nozzle translates to heating any item is another story as it depends on the mass needed to heat, if the item has been preheated and ambient temperature of the lab. https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/deadly-wiring-fault-atten-858d-hot-air-rework-station/msg54588/#msg54588 Enjoy. --- Quote from: 3roomlab on November 12, 2016, 09:54:42 am --- comparatively, i did not take 1-2 minutes to melt solder, i think the heating speed feels about the same as what i saw before. then i got curious about the temperature, and here is what i discovered the wide margin of error between temp setting and actual output. when i first tried at a dial of 200, flow = minimum, the temperature imparted to the PCB after about 30s is way way way way way over 210C. in fact, to hit 210C in about 30s, all i need to dial in is about 165 (see pic). with a wallwatt device, at 165 setting. the station draws periodic cycles of 100-260w of power draw. i hope the above temperature points are helpful hints to users. --- End quote --- |
| jonovid:
--- Quote ---The simplest thing to try for any hot air reworkstation is a calibration procedure, to determine how the output setting is set and if its correct. Now, how the hot air output from the nozzle translates to heating any item is another story as it depends on the mass needed to heat, if the item has been preheated and ambient temperature of the lab. --- End quote --- and Quote from: 3roomlab on Yesterday at 08:54:42 PM --- Quote ---comparatively, i did not take 1-2 minutes to melt solder, i think the heating speed feels about the same as what i saw before. then i got curious about the temperature, and here is what i discovered the wide margin of error between temp setting and actual output. when i first tried at a dial of 200, flow = minimum, the temperature imparted to the PCB after about 30s is way way way way way over 210C. in fact, to hit 210C in about 30s, all i need to dial in is about 165 (see pic). with a wallwatt device, at 165 setting. the station draws periodic cycles of 100-260w of power draw. i hope the above temperature points are helpful hints to users. --- End quote --- something for a diy weekender all you need is the chinese head unit like this one. the rest of the unit can be made in the lab . ie arduino temp and fun control in a case. the had part is calibration of the temperature for accuracy. standby run commands . looking at the data shows the chinese 220V ceramic heating element can push a top of 500c so that 24v fan must keep the air flow high as needed.so maybe fun with arduino programming the heating map. only time will tell if this will work. note- how light the wires are. needs better cable & more air holes in the handle grip. also note- the reed switch and magnet used as head unit sits in a cradle mounted on the side of the case . the magnet in the cradle trips the reed switch B inside the head unit case. for standby or low setting. I will post when i start work on it. find a 700w step down transformer & re-wire the output 40V? need to test it . then map out a schematic, then make art work of the case, and all the parts inside it. by mid 2017 I hope. |
| netdudeuk:
Is there any way that these (potentially wrongly wired) units could damage the 240v UK mains socket ring cabling ? I'd like to get one myself but would like to know that it couldn't damage any existing equipment. Thanks |
| Back2Volts:
I purchased one of the WEP units. Inspection showed the fuse on the neutral and a couple of questionable solder joints on the ground wiring. I have rewired the fuse, re-soldered, scrapped paint here and there, improved the case grounding, and tided up the wiring mess. After all the "tuning" it seems to be in good working condition and I fell better safety wise. I will be using it one of these days. EDIT: I am ordering a new power switch from Mouser to replace the existing one. |
| Housedad:
I just got a WEP unit in the mail today. Same situation. Before I even plugged it in I rewired the fuse, removed small solder blobs, separated a solder bridge, scraped paint, checked grounds. All good now. Works like a charm. |
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