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DEADLY WIRING FAULT ; Atten 858D+ Hot Air Rework Station
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Electro Detective:
OneHungLow Electronics and Online Sweatshoppe Supply should offer these death devices in a basic kit form for those of us suspicious -burnt twice three times stupid- burb dwelling battlers/cheapskates/can't afforders

that are going to pull apart and fix/remedy/secure their products anyway

'Promise Products' cobbled together by 6 year olds and their ailing grandmothers using mini blowtorch soldering and used wooden toothpick and clothesline clip vice techniques on oily PCBs,
in some far off local dictator bullied snow buried mountain region poverty province I can't pronounce or find on a map 


I would prefer it that way, it saves on dis-assembly time to make their halfassed assembly/soldered product work right, and be sort of safe,
and spot what needs to be done right off the bat.

i.e. a total board rework, a few beefier component swaps, power lead and polarity check, proper fuse, a bonus surprise troubleshoot/failure  |O 

and the final cable tie frenzy, finding better screws, washers, entry glands and feet etc etc   
and lots of tea, coffee, vodka, headache pills, apologies to the neighbors for the foul mancave language...


This should also amount to less beatings and whippings for the shoeless 6 year olds and their one foot at deaths door ailing grandmothers
when we complain and return the products for a refund from 'Golden Star Online Trading'

and pray you get your paypal credit asap before they go  belly up and resume the same BS as  'Shining Star Online Trading'  ::)

joeyjoejoe:
I just got a WEP 858D from Amazon.ca.

Happy to find the fuse was on the hot wire, the nozzle was grounded. Board says YH858D V11 for the model/iteration.

I figured I would bump this thread with the new info as it shows up on google searches for these models.
schmitt trigger:

--- Quote from: Tasman on May 20, 2011, 01:53:57 am ---

Last night I also notified the Ebay seller in China and to his credit received a prompt reply indicating his great concern and that he would notifiy the manufacturer and his customers of the problem.

--- End quote ---

I bet he was shocked by your email.
Now seriously. This was a serious problem.
LiftedTrace:

--- Quote from: jonovid on November 13, 2016, 12:12:06 pm ---
--- Quote ---The simplest thing to try for any hot air reworkstation is a calibration procedure,
to determine how the output setting is set and if its correct.  Now, how the hot air output from the nozzle translates to heating any item is another story as it depends on the mass needed to heat,  if the item has been preheated and ambient temperature of the lab.
--- End quote ---
and Quote from: 3roomlab on Yesterday at 08:54:42 PM

--- Quote ---comparatively, i did not take 1-2 minutes to melt solder, i think the heating speed feels about the same as what i saw before. then i got curious about the temperature, and here is what i discovered the wide margin of error between temp setting and actual output. when i first tried at a dial of 200, flow = minimum, the temperature imparted to the PCB after about 30s is way way way way way over 210C. in fact, to hit 210C in about 30s, all i need to dial in is about 165 (see pic).

with a wallwatt device, at 165 setting. the station draws periodic cycles of 100-260w of power draw. i hope the above temperature points are helpful hints to users.
--- End quote ---

something for a diy weekender all you need is the chinese head unit like this one.  the rest of the unit can be made in the lab . ie arduino temp and fun control in a case. the had part is calibration of the temperature for accuracy. standby run commands .
looking at the data shows the chinese 220V ceramic heating element can push a top of 500c so that 24v fan must keep the air flow high as needed.so maybe fun with arduino programming the heating map. only time will tell if this will work. note- how light the wires are. needs better cable & more air holes in the handle grip.  also note- the reed switch and magnet used as  head unit sits in a cradle mounted on the side of the case . the magnet in the cradle trips the reed switch B inside the head unit case. for standby or low setting. I will post when i start work on it. find a 700w step down transformer & re-wire the output 40V? need to test it . then map out a schematic, then make art work of the case,  and all the parts inside it. by mid 2017 I hope.

--- End quote ---

I just got one off amazon (YouYue 858D). It looks identical to yours. I chose this one because it had a removable cable. When I opened it up after reading these posts, I noticed the wires for feeding the heating element were "TIIIIIIIIIIINY!!!!" The same size as the fan wires.
The wires running up through the cable are tiny too. The wires in the handle for the reed switch are larger than the ones for the heating element  :palm: :-DD
Now I don't know if I should spend time making it better only to find it fails later, or just return it.
I don't have money to spend a few hundred bucks on a nice one, and don't have the experience to build my own.
I guess it would be a fun project to breath some confidence in it to where it wont melt down on me. If it dies down the road....meh! It was only 40 bucks, cant expect much for that  :clap:
MrMobodies:


That hot snot around the receptacle looks dodgy but they made the effort to heat shrink the ends.

It looks like the receptacle  clip does not go down far enough to secure it tight to the cover and without the glue it might be loose and wobble.
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