Oh they probably did have some sort of qa test, the standards were probably just really low. Pictures and test data would be pretty good to have.
For what it's worth the serial number of my unit is 1042111302610.
man that is bad
surprised it did have any sort of qa test
I see a lot of lighting fixtures from China here in the US with bad/loose connections, bad mechanical assembly, missing parts etc. to the point where now I have to check everything before I install one.
I always use an RCD and treat every new piece of equipment (particularly from China) as a deadly threat until proved otherwise. After 50 odd years playing with electrical stuff I am still alive but have had a few close calls.
It's a lot cheaper to employ people direct off the street,& just set them loose assembling things.How is it these products are allowed to be sold? That's what I want to know. Aren't our tax funds supposed to prevent this sort of cheap garbage from entering the market?
The best answer to this at our level,is to check for earth continuity with a multimeter,& lack of continuity
between active OR neutral & any accessable metalwork.
Tough luck for non technical people though!
At my old work,we received some Chinese equipment using metal cased mains connectors(Cannon style).
The only problem was that the only panel mount connectors they could find were female,so that the loose
plugin leads had MALE connectors with pins sticking out that you could touch!
Needless to say,this was quickly modified "in house".
By the way,the things didn't work either,so this was just the first of many modifications needed! :D
VK6ZGO
Attached are pictures illustrating the existence of the fault.
How is it these products are allowed to be sold? That's what I want to know. Aren't our tax funds supposed to prevent this sort of cheap garbage from entering the market?how china regulates? nada! its free global market there. or maybe you have to ask the "police of the world" to impose the regulation on them, can they?. and you'll be more pissed off if you paid the item but blocked at your custom cleareance. as a lesson, if you dont tolerate this kind of stuff, dont buy from china. thats the only thing rules, you buy or you dont.
hello got one of these yesterday, good looking machine. How would I go about fixing this bad wiring problem, also would you have a picture of the problem.
I just received an Atten 858D+ hot air rework station direct from China. When I plugged it in and switched on it was completely dead - no display or any activity. On taking the front panel off I found that the power input socket had been mis-wired and mains active was tied directly to the exposed metallic parts of the heat gun.
This is a potential killer - no pun intended. Please if you have purchased but not received one of these items check the mains wiring before switching on. Even if you have one that appears to be functioning ok it would be best to have a look whether it has more insidious faults such as neutral to earth or active-neutral transposed.
For what it's worth the serial number of my unit is 1042111302610.
man that is bad
surprised it did have any sort of qa test
What's a qa test?
858 8 5 LED speed speed 120 120 121 150 148 146 200 203 202 300 310 315 400 412 420 480 494 493 |
I found, indeed, that the casing was not grounded anywhere! Same problem with paint all over the place.
Also, the mains plug didn't comply with BS1363 (shrouded earth pin!) and contained 13A fuse, highly inappropriate for the very thin bundle of strands in the cable...
I changed cables, scraped off paint all of those spots, and added a ground tab using the transformer's connection to the casing, directly to the earth pin on the inlet.
Initial looking at the circuit board suggests, also, that little attention is paid to isolating low and high voltages anywhere. Had anybody noticed this?
I was sure i took my 858 apart when i got it and it was fine, starting to doubt myself now :/
If you see dull solder joints it's definitely bad joints, i have never seen a china brand product with lead-freeWhen was the last time you bought electronics from China? They've been lead-free for years (RoHS), and leaded solder is becoming more expensive.
Fused on the wrong leg? That's what they do to save money, >:(
If you see dull solder joints it's definitely bad joints, i have never seen a china brand product with lead-free
Fused on the wrong leg? That's what they do to save money, >:(
'If you see dull solder joints it's definitely bad joints, i have never seen a china brand product with lead-freeWhen was the last time you bought electronics from China? They've been lead-free for years (RoHS), and leaded solder is becoming more expensive.
Fused on the wrong leg? That's what they do to save money, >:(
RoHS my ass ... walk into the SEG and tell me if you come back with lead-free products. Want me to show it? I bought a couple of things from the SEG (which all dont work anymore properly) and the solder they use easily melt at 250C (Still bad solder but definitely not lead-free) with a 936
At least when it comes to Yihua and Atten and BEST i used them all i know what it is.
htassell , that hot gun is nearly exactly the same in my new YiHua 853d , see on the pcb board a YH !, the only slight difference is the colour of wires to the heater , i think (its all back together) there were 2 clear wires but i cannot remember if they were from the sensor or reed switch now , but a carbon copy and works well for the cost ...Well ... Yihua is known as a OEM actually
Just got one of these, and tore it right the heck apart. I was very surprised that find everything in order. Fuse on the hot, mains connected correctly, and ground to chassis and to metal parts nozzle. The machine is labled YiHua, as are all the boards inside. The construction was a bit sloppily done, bit the solder connections all look good. I was somewhat annoyed at their propensity to use whatever color wire they had laying around instead of using some sort of logic. But at least it functions properly and probably won't kill me.
There was even a shiny holographic Q.C. sticker on the outside. Of course the sticker did say "Qenuine Q.C. Passed". I guess they spell "genuine" with a 'Q' in China.
Anyway, I had fun taking it apart, and I really appreciated this thread that helped me to look out for all the potential pitfalls.
Is the market demand really so biased to this line voltage
I have one of these Atten 858D on it's way from Hong Kong. I was planning on a teardown to check for issues, even whithout knowing of this topic. Now that I read it it's definitely getting a thorough inspection.
Nicest surprise from the chinese QC was a extension cord that had "one of the other wires" :-DD and ground swithed over. Since I live in Europe, our plugs don't care for polarity. First time I plugged it in it worked fine because the neutral went to ground and vice-versa, which it did anyway in the panel board(no RCD). Second time I plugged it the other way around and got hot on the chassis ground. |O As a bonus the equipment that's plugged in was not working, so it begged for me to touch it. :-/O
I then realized there's a problem, opened the extension cord and checked for continuity, since the colors were right (yellow/green to ground) and found out that they were switched over insinde the moulded plug. It wasn't my cord to throw away, so I text labeled them and soldered them the correct way.
Is the market demand really so biased to this line voltage
Well, yes. The exceptions to 240VAC 50Hz consist of: The USA, Canada, Japan, and various South American countries.
The entire planet uses 240V 50Hz with the exception of those under the thumb of the US.
In terms of the hot air wand, there are no signs of grinding or hacking of the fan enclosure to make it fit. Likewise all wires are well attached to the PCB with no large stretches of bare copper exposed or anything like that seen in other stations.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8036/7991416858_62e2d16e22_b.jpg)
So after strain relief was fitted to the mains cable, the mains earth wire re-attached, and the active and neutral swapped around plus a bit of tidying up and re-bundling of wires, the station was good to go.
http://imageshack.us/a/img803/1617/p1020799n.jpg (http://imageshack.us/a/img803/1617/p1020799n.jpg)
Dear Monkeh:
--You said "The entire planet uses 240V 50Hz with the exception of those under the thumb of the US.". An interesting an provocative assertion. I would be very interested to see any evidence of the US forcing countries "under its thumb" to use 240V 50Hz. Do you have any similar theories about which side of an automobile the steering wheel is on?
"Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence"
Carl Sagan 1934-1996
Best Regards
Clear Ether
Is it just me, or does the resistor in the bottom left corner look like it has a bad solder job?
Just got one of these, and tore it right the heck apart. I was very surprised that find everything in order.
....
There was even a shiny holographic Q.C. sticker on the outside. Of course the sticker did say "Qenuine Q.C. Passed". I guess they spell "genuine" with a 'Q' in China.
Fized cable with Euro plug supplied with travel adapter, will put iec socket or replace cable.
You know you can replace the plug without changing the entire cable.. right?
You know you can replace the plug without changing the entire cable.. right?
ha ha yes, but Ill just chop the iec plug off a spare iec mains cable and use that so has moulded mains plug on the other end. I work in IT so I always have spare free iec cables around.
Oh and anyone know what this is?
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/04/emanahyq.jpg)
I am sure it is obvious but I cant see it...
Anthony
Alas, it's switched neutral. While certainly not a deadly fault (hey, they used to do this on house wiring in the states), I will fix it. I just don't get why they'd do it that way... how much could it really save?It saves cutting and connecting one more piece of wire... probably a not insignificant cost if you're building millions of units.
16g stranded good enough for the load?
For 110v, 700W? Would think 22g would be a bit small for that... 16g is probably a bit big too. =)
Eh, I'd just take it as the price of cheap tools and replace the switch.
Hi everyone! just want to share my experience. I received my ATTEN 858D+ 4 days ago, everything was working great for the first 3-4 times but today when I've turned it on I saw the temp screen numbers going crazy, but it was under 100C only above 100 it was showing good. Then I spotted that temp was raising way to slow, 3 minutes to go to 350C and only to 370-380 not more, sometimes only to 280. So I opened a nozzle to check if there was any problem, redid all the joints but nothing. Then I unscrewed the mainboard to check the joints there and guess what...it worked, only by unscrewing it. There is one very bad big join so I hope this was a problem. Sorry for my English folks. ::)
So would you rather they power the heater with 24V and have a gigantic thick cable?
So would you rather they power the heater with 24V and have a gigantic thick cable?
Well... Most of the power consumed by this soldering station goes into the heating element and it uses a 5A fuse.
In worst case scenario (ex : failure of temp sensor), can this small wire handle 1150W ?
upload the photos and someone definetly will help you on that. as for the thermocouple its the actual elements which limit the sensing range specially its insulation. i melted part of my original supplied fluke probe when i set my chinese thing to approx a correct temp, the meter measures up to 1000c or more i dont really remember the range. but the probe is rated for 2xx celsius
upload the photos and someone definetly will help you on that. as for the thermocouple its the actual elements which limit the sensing range specially its insulation. i melted part of my original supplied fluke probe when i set my chinese thing to approx a correct temp, the meter measures up to 1000c or more i dont really remember the range. but the probe is rated for 2xx celsius
Ok, got some pics, it looks pretty clean.
The pcb is Atten branded.
Few issues, live and neutral are both blue. Earth goes straight to the pcb and so the bottom half of the chassis is earthed only via the screw holding the pcb to the base.
The housing of the tranny measures about 23ohms to the earth pin and the top cover is as good as open circuit (not earthed).
The tip of the wand measures about 6ohms to earth.
I switched it on anyway after putting it back together and it works really well.
Mounted some RGB pixels with leaded solder paste and the atten set to 220 degrees.
Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk
Beware of the IEC lead it came with. Fake as hell.
Beware of the IEC lead it came with. Fake as hell.
Thanks for the heads up, what issues am I likely to suffer with it being fake? And should I just bin it and replace it immediately? I have spares lying round al over the place.
I used it last night for my first attempt of removing components as opposed to placing them. I tried removing a few components from an old HDD board, couldn't remove any of the TQFP with it set to 400 degrees. Managed to remove plenty of 8PDIP and SMD resistors etc. I think I had too small of a nozzle attached for the TQFP. I'll be a bit more agressive in my next attempt.
I'm still not sure what temperatures I should use. At 220 I can easily solder new components with my lead solder paste, but desoldering the board from a WD HDD wouldn't budge at 22, or 280.
I used it last night for my first attempt of removing components as opposed to placing them. I tried removing a few components from an old HDD board, couldn't remove any of the TQFP with it set to 400 degrees. Managed to remove plenty of 8PDIP and SMD resistors etc. I think I had too small of a nozzle attached for the TQFP. I'll be a bit more agressive in my next attempt.
It could also be one of those chips that have the metal pad on the underside.
Like this one:
(http://andtfoot.smugmug.com/photos/i-jWSf58r/0/L/i-jWSf58r-L.jpg)
BBQ sauce with lost lambs.
Drunked wannabees.
Nice circus show.
:-DD
I just received an Atten 858D+ hot air rework station direct from China. When I plugged it in and switched on it was completely dead - no display or any activity. On taking the front panel off I found that the power input socket had been mis-wired and mains active was tied directly to the exposed metallic parts of the heat gun.
This is a potential killer - no pun intended. Please if you have purchased but not received one of these items check the mains wiring before switching on. Even if you have one that appears to be functioning ok it would be best to have a look whether it has more insidious faults such as neutral to earth or active-neutral transposed.
It was on the news that some time back a poor kid got killed because he bought what he thought was a replacement charger for is game machine from China :rant:, this annoys me greatly that our authorities are not doing much about this, only when someone dies might it become a news item like the poor kid did |O. Why are our authorities not taking effective action against these lethal imports, why are sanctions not brought up on those whom peddle these dangerous goods. |O
For what it's worth the serial number of my unit is 1042111302610.
Attached are pictures illustrating the existence of the fault. Later today I will post teardown pictures that show why the fault occurred.
Last night I also notified the Ebay seller in China and to his credit received a prompt reply indicating his great concern and that he would notifiy the manufacturer and his customers of the problem.
One good idea I have heard is to make a habit of first touching all unknown electrical equipment with the BACK of your hand, so you don't grab hold of it if it is live.Rather bad habit :palm:
I really can not understand so many people here are still buying this crappy lethal junk. |O |O
I really can not understand so many people here are still buying this crappy lethal junk. |O |O
I really can not understand so many people here are still buying this crappy lethal junk. |O |O
It's not lethal if you know what you're doing.
Please suggest an affordable, widely available alternative.
I really can not understand so many people here are still buying this crappy lethal junk. |O |O
It's not lethal if you know what you're doing.
Please suggest an affordable, widely available alternative.
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10706 (https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10706)
well.... I got mine today, and found this while waiting the delivery.
I'm not expert and I'ld like to know if this is a good sign before opening the box.
I tested for continuity and found that only the ground plug pin has continuity when touching the gun tip or the metal plate under the gun holder.... does it count as a valid test for correct wiring?
thanks
Hal.
Only if you can pass 12-25A through it….. ( assuming you are in the UK)
The British Standards have all sorts of tests built in to catch this type of thing, but again……… if you buy from China or those shitty drug induced trolls selling on EBAY ,then you get everything you deserve.
A 100% seller rating could mean 100% of the customers are dead and did not get to complain.
It is good to know what NOT to buy.FWIW, I have a Quick 861DW (http://www.quick-usa.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=60&product_id=94) hot air station that's really well made, and is similarly featured to the Hakko FR-810 at a fraction of the cost ($235.71 here (http://www.gotopac.com/quick-soldering-quick861dw.html)).
Scary :scared:
Looks really good.It is good to know what NOT to buy.FWIW, I have a Quick 861DW (http://www.quick-usa.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=60&product_id=94) hot air station that's really well made, and is similarly featured to the Hakko FR-810 at a fraction of the cost ($235.71 here (http://www.gotopac.com/quick-soldering-quick861dw.html)).
Scary :scared:
Click here (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/buysellwanted/ebay-steinel-heat-gun-(a-k-a-hot-air-gun)/msg426267/#msg426267) for photos of the innards (source thread). ;)
The 957 or 957D are closer to the 858 regarding the size of enclosure, but it's pump is internal, not in the handle (pricing (http://www.gotopac.com/products/solder-rework/solder-rework-systems.html?manufacturer=2862)).
Looks like chepoo $18 version that is selling all over china does not have this stupid interconnect board waiting to kill you. HV wires go stright to the heater:
I received my "WEP 858D" today from eBay. Fully expecting it to be ghetto wired. But for $40... with a guarantee. Can you go wrong?
First thing I did was turn it on to test it. The digital display has multiple burned out/dead segments.
I don't know why people continue to bash Made in China stuff. Just look around you, almost everything's made in China these days. Even my $1500 Apple MacBook Pro is assembled in China, and I've had absolutely no problems with it. You pay for what you get regardless of where an item's made. Someone mentioned preferring to have a German-made Weller WHA900. Well, I would too. Except the WHA900 costs $650 vs. $70 for this thing. I'm sure if the China version sold for a few hundred dollars instead of $70, it would be higher quality.It's certainly true that most anything electronic is made in China. But depending on the brand, it may have been designed elsewhere, and only manufactured in China with a proper QC system in place to catch any defective units prior to them ending up in customers hands. For products that are fully originated in China (design to packaging), there tends to be a lot more compromises to squeeze out every cent possible. So corners that shouldn't be cut happen anyway, which is why we see things such as poor performance, bad user interfaces, dangerous electrical faults, and a much higher defect rate.
Sorry for digging it up,
but I looking into this and was just wondering, which MCU does the WEP 858D+ have?
Which Model has the Atmel Chips to mod?
thanks
I just asked this from seller on ebay ( http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220V-WEP858D-SMD-SMT-SOLDERING-REWORK-STATION-welder-HOT-AIR-858D-Sale-/151993774809?hash=item236388f2d9:g:DbQAAOSwGotWjcCH (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220V-WEP858D-SMD-SMT-SOLDERING-REWORK-STATION-welder-HOT-AIR-858D-Sale-/151993774809?hash=item236388f2d9:g:DbQAAOSwGotWjcCH) )
He told me:
"Dear customer,
Thank you so much for your interest on our prosuct!
The picture is attached.
And the type of the processor is samsung.
Have a nice day!"
comparatively, i did not take 1-2 minutes to melt solder, i think the heating speed feels about the same as what i saw before. then i got curious about the temperature, and here is what i discovered the wide margin of error between temp setting and actual output. when i first tried at a dial of 200, flow = minimum, the temperature imparted to the PCB after about 30s is way way way way way over 210C. in fact, to hit 210C in about 30s, all i need to dial in is about 165 (see pic).
with a wallwatt device, at 165 setting. the station draws periodic cycles of 100-260w of power draw. i hope the above temperature points are helpful hints to users.
The simplest thing to try for any hot air reworkstation is a calibration procedure,and Quote from: 3roomlab on Yesterday at 08:54:42 PM
to determine how the output setting is set and if its correct. Now, how the hot air output from the nozzle translates to heating any item is another story as it depends on the mass needed to heat, if the item has been preheated and ambient temperature of the lab.
comparatively, i did not take 1-2 minutes to melt solder, i think the heating speed feels about the same as what i saw before. then i got curious about the temperature, and here is what i discovered the wide margin of error between temp setting and actual output. when i first tried at a dial of 200, flow = minimum, the temperature imparted to the PCB after about 30s is way way way way way over 210C. in fact, to hit 210C in about 30s, all i need to dial in is about 165 (see pic).
with a wallwatt device, at 165 setting. the station draws periodic cycles of 100-260w of power draw. i hope the above temperature points are helpful hints to users.
How can RS resell this when it has no safety approvals? There are laws, in USA/Canada/UK that you can't sell products (vs import) without proper regulatory certs.
I believe RS would be liable if you got electrocuted or it burned your house down.
Last night I also notified the Ebay seller in China and to his credit received a prompt reply indicating his great concern and that he would notifiy the manufacturer and his customers of the problem.
QuoteThe simplest thing to try for any hot air reworkstation is a calibration procedure,and Quote from: 3roomlab on Yesterday at 08:54:42 PM
to determine how the output setting is set and if its correct. Now, how the hot air output from the nozzle translates to heating any item is another story as it depends on the mass needed to heat, if the item has been preheated and ambient temperature of the lab.Quotecomparatively, i did not take 1-2 minutes to melt solder, i think the heating speed feels about the same as what i saw before. then i got curious about the temperature, and here is what i discovered the wide margin of error between temp setting and actual output. when i first tried at a dial of 200, flow = minimum, the temperature imparted to the PCB after about 30s is way way way way way over 210C. in fact, to hit 210C in about 30s, all i need to dial in is about 165 (see pic).
with a wallwatt device, at 165 setting. the station draws periodic cycles of 100-260w of power draw. i hope the above temperature points are helpful hints to users.
something for a diy weekender all you need is the chinese head unit like this one. the rest of the unit can be made in the lab . ie arduino temp and fun control in a case. the had part is calibration of the temperature for accuracy. standby run commands .
looking at the data shows the chinese 220V ceramic heating element can push a top of 500c so that 24v fan must keep the air flow high as needed.so maybe fun with arduino programming the heating map. only time will tell if this will work. note- how light the wires are. needs better cable & more air holes in the handle grip. also note- the reed switch and magnet used as head unit sits in a cradle mounted on the side of the case . the magnet in the cradle trips the reed switch B inside the head unit case. for standby or low setting. I will post when i start work on it. find a 700w step down transformer & re-wire the output 40V? need to test it . then map out a schematic, then make art work of the case, and all the parts inside it. by mid 2017 I hope.
Because of the heat and difficulty soldering