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Dishwasher help.
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paulca:
My dishwasher packed up.  Beeping constantly.  Fault code turns out to be "Optical Water level sensor failure". 

Googling determines it doesn't have an optical water sensor but a diaphragm based one.  I got said sensor out of the machine and tested with a meter.

It has three pins.  There is a short between two of them and 6 Meg between the others.  If I blow into the sensor (after cleaning with boiling water) The pins reverse, the shorted pins open to MegaOhm the Meg pins short.

To me that says it working.

Put it back in and same thing.  Starts filling, about to start the wash and then beeps constantly and empties, same "code 11" fault.

It's a Whirlpool DWH B10, no idea how old as it was here when I moved in a last summer.

When I was moving it around rocking it to get it out of the cabinet, I tried it and it ran. Once.  I reset it and it failed again, so something intermittent and not that sensor... unless I tested it wrong.
paulca:
Checked online with Whirlpool/hotpoint and it's apparently 11 years since manufacture.  They want a one off £135 to repair it.  A new one is £300.

Time to get the credit card out and find out if anyone delivers in current climes.
NivagSwerdna:
https://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/forums/forum/public-support-forums/help-and-support/dishwasher-help-forum/21363-whirlpool-dwh-b10-fault-11-blinks

Quite interesting?
paulca:
Yea went through that one.  Pulled the water sensor.  No overflow in the base.  The base water float switch appears functional.

I think after 11 years it's time it went to the landfill in the sky.

Listing to the washer it sounds like it's unable to pick water up from the sump, there is the sound of a pump gasping and spinning unloaded.

But I ordered a new one to exercise the credit card.
Ralph S.:
I think I've had a similar problem in a Samsung dishwasher. It didn't heat the water and the display returned a low temperature error. I took it all apart, tested the heater, desoldered and checked the relays - it was a PITA to pick the gel off the PCB. The relay coil circuit went through a pressure sensor made of a diaphragm and a micro switch. All of these things seemed OK, but then it struck me. The washing machine must be sure that the heater is filled with water and there is sufficient flow - that's why there is a pressure sensor at the heater inlet. The real problem was the PUMP! Of course, I've checked it before - it ran (kind of), but not good enough. It had a shorted winding, or something - it ran too slow to build up required pressure, and it got hot after 30s. The heater was disabled by the micro switch in the pressure sensor. I've replaced the pump and now it runs well.
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