Do you still use leaded solder? I was today refused to buy it ...

[james_s]

I don't like paying taxes but I recognize it is a necessary evil and that it costs money to support the infrastructure required by a civilized society. I pay taxes because I use many of the amenities my tax dollars support, not because a politician is forcing me to do it.

[Marco]

You pay taxes which pays for the guns they hold to other people's head to pay taxes they don't happen to agree with. You're the tyrant now

PS. are we having this bizarre discussion because you're an piston airplane owner/pilot and took offence to my entitlement comment?

[Halcyon]

On the subject of leaded solder, I need to order some more. I don't use a lot of solder, but I usually keep a few different thicknesses on hand for hobbyist purposes.

There are so many different formulations available with varying ratios of lead and other metals such as copper, tin, silver etc...

I don't have a specific requirement for anything exotic, should I just stick with the standard 60/40 Sn/Pb stuff with a rosin core?

[BreakingOhmsLaw]

I don't have a specific requirement for anything exotic, should I just stick with the standard 60/40 Sn/Pb stuff with a rosin core?

There may be more refined stuff out there, but with this classic you can't really go wrong.
Personally, i have been using 1mm STANNOL Sn60PB40 as my daily driver for 30 years, and it is great stuff IMHO.

[Ed.Kloonk]

I've mentioned it before but for those who are pack-ratting solder, check that you are getting the metals you are paying for not some mislabelled ripoff. Sooner or later the fraudsters will show up. We need to identity a new fraudulent seller as you receive the items. Don't wait 10 years to discover you got dupped.

[Cerebus]

On the subject of leaded solder, I need to order some more. I don't use a lot of solder, but I usually keep a few different thicknesses on hand for hobbyist purposes.

There are so many different formulations available with varying ratios of lead and other metals such as copper, tin, silver etc...

I don't have a specific requirement for anything exotic, should I just stick with the standard 60/40 Sn/Pb stuff with a rosin core?

I grew up on 60/40 and in recent years have switched to 63/37. There's not a lot in it, but I find that I get slightly better flow on hand soldering with the 63/37 - I've started getting the perfect dished fillets on the other side of plated through holes that used to elude me when I was using 60/40. I acquired some Sn62/Pb36/Ag2 solder paste, and it has been a dream to work with. Wets everything, flows really well and leaves gleaming joints. I've been sufficiently impressed that I'm planning to acquire some similar alloy solder wire the next time I've an order in with someone who stocks that alloy.

[Miyuki]

On the subject of leaded solder, I need to order some more. I don't use a lot of solder, but I usually keep a few different thicknesses on hand for hobbyist purposes.

There are so many different formulations available with varying ratios of lead and other metals such as copper, tin, silver etc...

I don't have a specific requirement for anything exotic, should I just stick with the standard 60/40 Sn/Pb stuff with a rosin core?

I grew up on 60/40 and in recent years have switched to 63/37. There's not a lot in it, but I find that I get slightly better flow on hand soldering with the 63/37 - I've started getting the perfect dished fillets on the other side of plated through holes that used to elude me when I was using 60/40. I acquired some Sn62/Pb36/Ag2 solder paste, and it has been a dream to work with. Wets everything, flows really well and leaves gleaming joints. I've been sufficiently impressed that I'm planning to acquire some similar alloy solder wire the next time I've an order in with someone who stocks that alloy.

Sn62/Pb36/Ag2 is nice but looks like phased out as a wire. Paste and wire are still common.

[james_s]

PS. are we having this bizarre discussion because you're an piston airplane owner/pilot and took offence to my entitlement comment?

No, I would love to be one but that's a very expensive hobby today. Sadly the days when an ordinary middle class person could reasonably afford to own and fly a small airplane are long over.

[Cerebus]

Sn62/Pb36/Ag2 is nice but looks like phased out as a wire. Paste and wire are still common.

12 varieties of solder wire in that alloy at RS today, 2 varieties of paste.

[Bassman59]

On the subject of leaded solder, I need to order some more.

Why?

What are you working on that requires lead-based solder?

[coppercone2]

I like how they use a ladle to plumb the wire (*no tin here AFAIK*). The lead is sculpted like clay by hand in its semi molten state.

many are left in service today. If I could shrink myself down like ant man I would do all soldering this way. Pour lead into a VIA from a 'cement mixer' 

[james_s]

Why?

What are you working on that requires lead-based solder?

I work on lots of older equipment that was made using lead based solder. I also have never been happy with the performance of lead free when doing hobby projects, it just makes nicer joints, and the amount of lead I will use in my lifetime is negligible anyway so it's not an issue.

[tooki]

On the subject of leaded solder, I need to order some more. I don't use a lot of solder, but I usually keep a few different thicknesses on hand for hobbyist purposes.

There are so many different formulations available with varying ratios of lead and other metals such as copper, tin, silver etc...

I don't have a specific requirement for anything exotic, should I just stick with the standard 60/40 Sn/Pb stuff with a rosin core?

Go for Kester 63/37. The 3% make a difference that makes hand soldering just nicer: the lack of a plastic phase makes joints less susceptible to disturbance.

I recommend Kester 44 without reservation. Digi-Key sells it in various diameters, of which 0.032” (around 0.8mm) is my favorite. (As well as versions with other fluxes which I haven’t tried.)

FWIW, I’ve not been enamored by the Stannol 60/40 we use at work. It’s not bad, but the Kester is better. Stannol’s 62/36/2 is nice. Their lead-free solders work well, but I find their fluxes spit more than I like. I’ve also used Tamura-Elsold 62/36/2 and it’s great, but I don’t know of anyone that sells it.

[tooki]

I don't have a specific requirement for anything exotic, should I just stick with the standard 60/40 Sn/Pb stuff with a rosin core?

There may be more refined stuff out there, but with this classic you can't really go wrong.
Personally, i have been using 1mm STANNOL Sn60PB40 as my daily driver for 30 years, and it is great stuff IMHO.

You should try a good 63/37 solder like the Kester I mentioned. It’ll be quite a treat!

[tooki]

Why don't you use leaded solder for SMD? No such solder-paste anymore?

Sn62/Pb36/Ag2 is nice but looks like phased out as a wire. Paste and wire are still common.

Haven’t you guys ever looked at Digi-Key, Mouser, or Farnell? You’d know that both of those products are still readily available.

[tooki]

Been using SN100C for at least a decade. I much prefer it to leaded stuff. If low temp is needed, just use a bismuth alloy.

This looks like an interesting alternative to try
Just read quality vary significantly between manufacturers 

I use Nihon Superior for SN100C, and Chipquik for bismuth alloys. I am very happy with both.

Someone here on the forum said STANNOL one is terrible

Stannol is one of the biggest solder brands. They’re not my absolute favorite, but it’s not junk.

I think that is a big issue as you do not see a huge difference between brands in SnPb stuff
People might just buy some nasty stuff from even reasonably looking brand 

As in, a company whose leaded product is good might have a lousy lead-free? Possibly. But it’s been so long that every reputable solder manufacturer has gotten it basically perfected by now.

The most common lead-free alloys were developed years ago. I think the real technical change since the dawn of RoHS is in the fluxes. The higher temperatures burn off traditional fluxes too fast, and I think it took time to really develop fluxes that work as well as classic activated rosin without being corrosive.

[Halcyon]

On the subject of leaded solder, I need to order some more.

Why?

What are you working on that requires lead-based solder?

Because I can and I've mostly used leaded solder over the years, so why change now?

[Ed.Kloonk]

No good can come from change!

 

[Halcyon]

No good can come from change!

 

Exactly! Look at Windows 10.

Seriously though, even though I do little soldering, why change from something that works for me? If it means that leaded solder flows better, then I'll keep using it. If there is a better solution out there, I'll consider that too.

A roll will last me for ages, so I'd rather make the right choice.

Feel free to give me a compelling reason why I shouldn't use leaded solder?

[Someone]

Seriously though, even though I do little soldering, why change from something that works for me? If it means that leaded solder flows better, then I'll keep using it. If there is a better solution out there, I'll consider that too.

A roll will last me for ages, so I'd rather make the right choice.

Feel free to give me a compelling reason why I shouldn't use leaded solder?

Availability will be the reason to stop using leaded solder, right now if you can get the alloy, size, and flux combination you prefer then it doesn't make much difference.

For Australian delivery, Element14 have a range of Multicore and Stannol alloys and sizes with the very pleasant 362 or 366 rosin fluxes (cheaper than the sources/brands mentioned above). 62Sn/36Pb/2Ag "low melting point" is a joy to use for hobby/personal work. With a good soldering iron that you can get enough heat into the joint, even the 99Sn/1Cu alloys are fine.

[rdl]

I've used Kester 63/37 for decades. It works very well.

On the subject of leaded solder, I need to order some more. I don't use a lot of solder, but I usually keep a few different thicknesses on hand for hobbyist purposes.

There are so many different formulations available with varying ratios of lead and other metals such as copper, tin, silver etc...

I don't have a specific requirement for anything exotic, should I just stick with the standard 60/40 Sn/Pb stuff with a rosin core?

[Halcyon]

Availability isn't a concern for me (right now) in Australia. Of the top 10 cheapest rolls of solder on Element14 that were in stock and ready to ship, 8 of them contained lead. Price isn't a compelling reason either since most of the lead-free solders are more expensive.

Aside from the obvious health hazards associated with ingesting lead (which can be easily mitigated), I see no reason not to use it.

[M4trix]

Lead free solder....

[james_s]

Availability isn't a concern for me (right now) in Australia. Of the top 10 cheapest rolls of solder on Element14 that were in stock and ready to ship, 8 of them contained lead. Price isn't a compelling reason either since most of the lead-free solders are more expensive.

Aside from the obvious health hazards associated with ingesting lead (which can be easily mitigated), I see no reason not to use it.

When a 1lb roll of solder lasts me typically around a decade, cost is never really an issue anyway. There may be some exotic solders that are absurdly expensive but nothing a hobbyist is likely to ever need.

[Halcyon]

Availability isn't a concern for me (right now) in Australia. Of the top 10 cheapest rolls of solder on Element14 that were in stock and ready to ship, 8 of them contained lead. Price isn't a compelling reason either since most of the lead-free solders are more expensive.

Aside from the obvious health hazards associated with ingesting lead (which can be easily mitigated), I see no reason not to use it.

When a 1lb roll of solder lasts me typically around a decade, cost is never really an issue anyway. There may be some exotic solders that are absurdly expensive but nothing a hobbyist is likely to ever need.

My point still stands... why switch? No one has provided a good reason yet.

I can understand not using it as a manufacturer in order to meet local/environmental requirements, but none of those apply to me.