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Electric shower, anything I can do?
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soldar:
There's no way I would run a water system without, at least, 30 m water pressure. 40 m is better and 20 m bare minimum. I want to see water coming out of the faucet when I open it.

In the country home I have an automatic pump. It used to be you needed a pressure system with a pump that would cycle on and off and the water pressure would be like sawteeth, up and down, which is a pain if you are using a tankless water heater. Now I have a pump that automagically detects flow and starts itself and maintains constant pressure until flow stops. No pressure vessel, no pressure switches, no nothing, just the self-priming pump.

It maintains a pressure of about 25 ~ 30 m which works pretty well. It is mounted in the garage, over the 1000 L water tank.

Same at home as on the boat the first issue to resolve is maintain good and stable water pressure.
paulca:

--- Quote from: BMK on July 24, 2019, 02:33:27 pm ---If this is your ubiquitous plastic tanked instant electric shower my Mira / Triton etc.. .
There is no thermostat except a high limit safety to stop the thing from boiling. The outlet water temperature is completely dependent on incoming water temp, element power and flow rate. There are 2 fixed heater powers (hi/low switch) and the main knob actually just adjusts the flow rate. Depending on on the temp of incoming water and the flow rate chosen (seasonally variable as most attics are blazing hot in summer) you get steady water outlet temp.  In my experience the flow gets restricted due to blocked inlet filter and/or scaling of the shower head itself. The effect of the adjustment knob is dominated by the other restrictions. It is a 2 minute job to remove and clean the filter. Google your model.

--- End quote ---

Thanks, good info.

It's this one:
http://secure.tritonshowers.co.uk/media/custom/upload/File-1352735182.pdf

I'll see if cleaning the filter helps.  I also intend to replace the shower head as it's a bit knackered and doesn't actually have the "mode" I like.
Towger:
You have the wrong model shower for a tank feed system. Yours is designed for mains feed.
The Triton T90 (+various sub versions) is their tank feed shower, it is much the same but has a small (noisy) pump.  The new (si?) version moved to a DC pump motor and is supposed to be much quieter.  In any event the T90 should have it's own feed point from the tank, not 'T'ed from the main outlet.
Someone:

--- Quote from: soldar on July 24, 2019, 09:51:05 am ---On-demand systems intrinsically suck at maintaining water temperature because basically they dump a fixed amount of energy into the water and any change in any parameter will result in a change in temperature. So you need to be able to modulate the energy and have a feedback loop that measures output temperature and modulates energy accordingly. This is possible and is done but adds initial expense and complication and risk of problems and failures.
--- End quote ---
This is all dependent on the specific heater, instantaneous/continuous/on demand gas water heaters are widely used in Australia but they have closed loop regulation at the heater. When used with a controller to set the desired output temperature for each use there are no problems with stability other than low flow rates.
paulca:

--- Quote from: Someone on July 25, 2019, 07:45:51 am ---
--- Quote from: soldar on July 24, 2019, 09:51:05 am ---On-demand systems intrinsically suck at maintaining water temperature because basically they dump a fixed amount of energy into the water and any change in any parameter will result in a change in temperature. So you need to be able to modulate the energy and have a feedback loop that measures output temperature and modulates energy accordingly. This is possible and is done but adds initial expense and complication and risk of problems and failures.
--- End quote ---
This is all dependent on the specific heater, instantaneous/continuous/on demand gas water heaters are widely used in Australia but they have closed loop regulation at the heater. When used with a controller to set the desired output temperature for each use there are no problems with stability other than low flow rates.

--- End quote ---

I think it depends on how you want to use the hot water.  I 'can' imagine that a shower could send a signal to the boiler to request a temperature so the shower only runs the hot water and varies it's signal to the boiler to achieve the temperature it wants.  However I can't see this as practical unless that boiler is specifically for the that shower alone.  If someone turns on the kitchen hot tap what temperature would the boiler deliver?

The on-demand combi boiler in my last place produced water around 70-80*C and the shower had a bi-metal valve.  As soon as the hotwater was flowing the heating circuit would be shut off, if active and the boiler would produce hot water as hot as it could get it.  The shower bi-metalic valve then regulated the amount of cold water that got added to maintain a temperature.

Anyway, I checked my mains inlet stop cock and found it not fully open, so my water pressure on the cold taps has increased.  This included the bathroom cold tap which tells me the upstairs cold feed has been redirected to the mains and so the shower is most likely running on mains water pressure.  I didn't get to test the shower last night or this morning (long story), but I also bought a new shower head to exclude the existing one was gunked up.  I'll see how it goes tonight.
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