First attempt at soldering.

[chris36202]

Hi all, I know I was away for a "Long" while and I just wanted to actually post something.
Well, I've never soldered at all. So this is my first attempt at it

[Ian.M]

Far too much solder - the curve of the joint surface between the lead and the board should be concave, not convex.
The joint on the right may be defective ('dry joint') - its surface is lumpy and the solder hasn't fully wetted the pad.

[chris36202]

I forgot to mention that the PCB is an vellerman kit http://www.vellemanusa.com/products/view/?country=us&lang=enu&id=351280
So, It's pretty low quality by itself if you ask me

[tautech]

Notice the RH pad is not fully covered with solder, you need a little more time on it or a bit more heat.
Also try to get out of bending the component leads so much as it makes it a real bitch to remove a component if need be. Just  the smallest of bends is enough while you invert the PCB for soldering.
If you have a bench mat or some thin tough foam flip the PCB onto this and populate the PCB with the thinnest components first, passives only preferably at first then bit by bit populate with taller components. This method in some way negates the need to put more than minor bends on component leads.

[Muttley Snickers]

So, It's pretty low quality by itself if you ask me

Still that's no reason to make a dogs breakfast out of it, after you finish soldering in the components and cutting the legs off don't forget to clean up the excess flux residue with a cotton swab or ear bud and some isopropyl alcohol (IPA).

Perhaps you should practice your technique a bit more with a small sheet of prototype or vero-board and some sacrificial components before taking on a kit, if you attempt to re-solder a component too many times or apply too much heat then you could start damaging or lifting tracks which will then be much harder to repair, it may also take the enjoyment out of the project.

[Brumby]

Agree with above.  I have never yet seen an example where the quality of a hand soldered joint is anything but a function of the person making it.  Rubbishy kits might have several problems, but quality of the soldering is not one that is inherent with the kit.

This might sound a little harsh - but the message here is that you need to accept that the fault lies in your technique, otherwise you can get into the attitude of blaming the wrong things - and you'll never get better.

Now please don't feel that we are jumping on your head to make us feel good.  We all want you to improve - and if you come back later showing us some 0201 SMD beautifully soldered using a nail and a blowtorch, we will be extremely happy for you.

We also do realise that this is a first effort - and the fact you have presented what you have shown us gives us some confidence that you have a basic understanding.  We do want to encourage you to do better, but sometimes engineering brains can be a little too direct - so bear that in mind in reading responses.

[P90]

This should be of help

[Ampera]

The moral of the day is, never show an electronics engineer your hand soldering job, they will never like it.

[tautech]

The moral of the day is, never show an electronics engineer your hand soldering job, they will never like it.

That, I don't care about. 
What I DO care about is constructive guidance on how to do better.

I forgot to mention that the PCB is an vellerman kit http://www.vellemanusa.com/products/view/?country=us&lang=enu&id=351280
So, It's pretty low quality by itself if you ask me

It's damn fine if you need it and you'll learn a lot from your project, do keep us up to date with progress.

[calexanian]

Gotta go big font for this one. That board appears to be gold plated. Solder takes longer to flow on gold plated pads.

What you have there is a very typical result. RA flux lead solder does much better on gold, but needs to be properly cleaned afterwards. The joint will actually be fine the way you have it, but if you are using lead free solder it will just be that much harder to make a good looking joint. HASL (Hot air solder leveled) boards or plain old tin plate will solder more easily. Sometimes on gold plated boards in production we have problem areas on I will solder the pads, then remove the solder before assembly. I have also had luck with organic core, or water clean lead solder. Don't forget to clean that stuff off or it will cause problems later on.

Apart from that not bad for a first attempt on a gold plated board. 

[calexanian]

Not satisfied with just my experience and looking for a reason for gold plate solder ability problems I found this helpful article.

http://www.pcbdesignschool.com/2012/11/25/when-enig-doesnt-solder/


I did not know that ENIG plating (The most common form of gold plating, and on PCB's in general today for lead free) had such a short shelf life. It explains a lot.

[Halcyon]

Also, it's pronounced phonetically (i.e.: "solder") not "sodder" as the Americans would have you believe 

It's a bit like those who mispronounce Moët and Chandon wine as "moey". It's "mo-wett".

 

[Halcyon]

Also, it's pronounced phonetically (i.e.: "solder") not "sodder" as the Americans would have you believe 

It's a bit like those who mispronounce Moët and Chandon wine as "moey". It's "mo-wett".

 

Who'd have thought I'd come to the EEVBlog forum to be learned how to talk proper like?
I've been pronouncing it wrong all this time. So it's mo-wett and mo-flux mos-def from now on.
Champagne and soddering is not recommended though. 

Indeed. It's linguistic snobbery at it's finest. Just don't say "mo-ey" in front of serious wine drinkers unless you want to be (a) told otherwise and/or (b) sound like a complete bogan. (It's not even that nice of a wine... Bollinger is far more delicious.)

[alsetalokin4017]

...Pronounced "Boy-en-jay" no doubt.   

[chris36202]

Here's a picture of the solder I'm using

[GreyWoolfe]

+1 for using proto boards to learn on.  You can buy them cheap as chips along with cheap China passives kits.  You didn't mention what type of soldering iron you use.  Is it a firestick or a temp controlled unit?  If it is a firestick and you plan on soldering a lot, consider upgrading to something better. 

Look at soldering videos.  Much easier to watch than try to figure out what someone is trying to explain with text.  The Pace videos, though old, will be a big help.  So will the NASA videos but that is mil spec soldering and a bit extreme for hobbyist use.

Your choice of solder is good.  I use Kester 44, 66 core in 63/37 because it's eutectic.  You could also use liquid flux for better wetting of the joint.  I use MG Chemicals RMA flux myself.

Finally, PRACTICE, PRACTICE and PRACTICE some more.  You will get better the more you solder.

[nanofrog]

The solder you're using is fine (Kester 44 has an RA flux core).  Though like GreyWoolfe above, I prefer 63/37 as well. Being eutectic, there's no plastic region that makes it easier to disturb the joint before it's fully solidified.

Having some additional liquid flux on hand is something I'd highly recommend as well (MG Chemicals 835-100ml; BTW it's RA, not RMA). Dispense as you see fit (needle bottle, brush, brush pen, nail polish bottle w/ brush, ...). Much less expensive than disposable pens this way. 

And as mentioned, practice will improve your technique immensely. 

[chris36202]

I kinda of messed up on this one

[CraigHB]

You can fix those joints first shown in two seconds with some desoldering braid.  Also get a flux pen or other flux applicator and wet your connections before soldering.  It will make solder joints come out nicely with little effort.  Your second photo shows some issues.  Looks you need to practice some before doing an actual kit.

[Quarlo Klobrigney]

I kinda of messed up on this one

Please throw away your slobbering iron and get a real soldering iron.
Practice makes perfect. Try to master soldering on a 2200 hole or less cheap perfboard such as https://www.radioshack.com/products/radioshack-grid-style-pc-board-with-2200-holes?variant=20332061829 from Radio Shack if it is still in business... The task is to not join all the pads where you do not want to...

What I see on your board is either not enough heat or not enough time. I do use Kester 44, but not on fine work as it leaves too much rosin behind.

Pace offers a Youtoob course
for the absolute beginner. Although dated, the theory remains the same, only the packaging and old skool tech are outdated.
Remember these videos are done by a "professional announcer". Like all Disk Jockeys, it is done with a "natural voice". Only emphasizing when necessary, for proper effect.
You may jump ahead to #6 Component soldering if you wish

[jonovid]

why anyone would make a beginners pcb with just the minimum clearance needed?    keeping so much excess copper next to the pads , this is bad beginners pcb design.  i find  now days with chinese pcb's i need lots of flux, clean pads , pre-tinning and tap-n-go soldering. 
but what would I know 

[vk6zgo]

Also, it's pronounced phonetically (i.e.: "solder") not "sodder" as the Americans would have you believe 

It's a bit like those who mispronounce Moët and Chandon wine as "moey". It's "mo-wett".

 

Yeah,they told us that when we visited the Moët and Chandon vineyard/plant in Victoria  (bet you didn't know they had one in Vic)

M.Moët was a Flemish bloke from Belgium,hence the commonsense pronunciation.

People try to give it a "French" pronunciation,hence "moey".or as I've heard more often,"Mo-ay".

[chris36202]

Noted. Any suggestions of a soldering iron or a soldering station that i could find in Canada?

[Quarlo Klobrigney]

It all depends on budget, continued usage and quality, What are you using now?

[chris36202]

It all depends on budget, continued usage and quality, What are you using now?

The iron came in a kit. I can see a model number on it that says GCH-25D, The Kit is a pro point "8492902" 25W soldering iron kit
I'd say my budget is around $100 CAD. Not USD