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| Frost-free freezer "modification" |
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| helius:
It could be that the drains are plugged up. Inside the evaporator chamber, are the fan, defrost heater, and a drainage channel. When the ice is melted off the evaporator, it runs down the drain and should pour into a pan near the condensor (this provides extra cooling effect from the water vapor to the condensor). Defrosting turns on a heater, which you should be able to measure if you have a power meter (Kill-O-Watt, etc). The power used by the defrost can be more than the cooling cycle. |
| VanMarco:
Hello. I am rewiring the thing correctly and decently, as it was really badly made. I have uploaded pics of inside the evaporator, as i wanted to know which cable goes where, now that i checked, other than i found a huge lot of electrical tape in a high moisture environment, i found these two parts that i have no clue what they are. if you read the exploded view the red part that i dont understnd what it is should be 0140, listed as "NTC sensor" but the white part that looks like a cap, I cannot find it. https://imgur.com/a/bgel63r exploded view https://www.siemens-home.bsh-group.com/uk/spareparts/media/58300000195577_aet_000_a_01.png?dataPk=9382965968926&width=1442&height=1019 it appears the red part is some sort of sensor for temp, it should be 25C one like this. https://sajjs.com/en/sensors/112-sensor-refrigerator-bosch-480132103383-whirlpool-sensors-whirlpool-nr57180.html So do you know how do I wire this correctly, and most importantly, how do i avoid moisture going into the connections? |
| helius:
The 25°C sensor is described in reply #6 by Seekonk: --- Quote from: Seekonk on November 03, 2020, 04:24:12 pm ---In series at the heater is another sealed thermostat. That opens when the coils reach a temp over freezing. These tend to fail a lot so make sure the heater circuit has continuity once down to temp. --- End quote --- Making the connections moisture-safe is a good use for silicone dielectric grease. Put a little grease inside plug-in terminals and put grease in a heatshrink tube, then shrink the tube over the connection/splice. (It helps to use a sheet of waste cardboard or whatever to catch grease squeezed out during shrinking). This is a good compromise between protection and serviceability, since the dielectric grease can be removed later if needed, but provides very good moisture protection. |
| VanMarco:
thanks mate. It also appears they wired 2 defrost coils in some way, there is some sort of blue wire that goes all around the drain pipe, i am almost 100% positive it's not stock, as it does not appear on the exploded view. I have put up a schematic of what all that mess look like. The white part i have no idea what it is, looks like a capacitor of sort. Is this defrost "coil" around the drain really necessary? |
| helius:
The defrost timer is outside of this, right? Without knowing how the different sensors are placed, I can't hazard a guess to their function. Maybe they are both overheat/PTC elements that become open when the evaporator is sufficiently warmed. |
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