PC 4K 43" monitors

[paulca]

I was able to tame it a little.



The blue annotation lines, from L to R,
"Disable low latency mode" - drops 50W probably lowering the DSP clock.
"Lower brightness to 0 then raise to 10 (from 50).  Drops 100W!
"Disable Smart controls for brightness and contrast" - basically with these on, it overrides the brightness setting.

So as I'm only dealing with an agregate power value and not the monitor specifically these are all "ball park".

If it was pulling 180W it should now only be pulling 30-40W.

2x Worklaptops = 60W
1x Gaming PC @ idle = 100W
LED lights, auxiliary gubbins, 30W or so.
That leaves about 60W for the monitor which is... acceptible.

Your post had a tone which set me off on proving you wrong.

However it didn't.  It proved you were right and the brightness settings had a massive impact.  Maybe I should have realised I was dealing with a "nice" monitor which will come out of the box with everything maxed out in the "Wow!" factor.

It's ironic that it constantly gives you a speach about USB standby power when you turn it on, but defaults to 180W!

[paulca]

My previous graphics card did not have enough memory to benefit from 4K resolution for games. You need a good graphics card to really benefit from the screen. I am using a RTX4070TI.
With 60Hz, the screen refresh rate is perfectly OK for me, perhaps gamers or special application require more than that and in that case, t he screen would not be suitable.

Yes.  The PC has to be capable of driving the display.

For example, the "energy austerity" PC I use on dull days draws only 8-13W.  It "will" produce a 4K@60Hz display over DisplayPort (only), I will also produce a 1440p ultrawide display at 60Hz but... I ended up dropping it to 1080p.

Why?  At 1440p the desktop is fine.  However if you open YouTube and stream 1080p content it works "ok" windowed, but hitting full screen and it can take 5-10 seconds before it actually goes full screen.  Then it will drop frames like crazy for a few seconds, stabilise and be "ok" for 5 minutes or so until the APU die temp gets up and the clock throttles then it's back to dropping frames.  At 4K@60Hz this was un-usable.  At 1440p@60Hz it was still irriating enough to go down to 1080p where it's perfect.

It will not game period.

Obviously the 2022 top spec gaming PC with a 3080 doesn't care at 4k@100hz pulling 500W gaming.

However.  You don't need to go to the extremes of 3080s if you don't want to game, if you want a solid, responsive 4K@60Hz display output to drive a 4KTV over HDMI you can get away with a Gtx1030.  I use these in the living room and bedroom to do that with Dell eWaste boxes.

With a Gtx1030 in a Dell Optiplex 7010 with an intel i3 3rd gen "T" class CPU, think it's an i3-3200T maybe?  It does 4K60Hz with HDR responsively.  The HDR can ocassionally cause video lag, but it's normally fine.

If only low profile 1030s or 1650s weren't still over £100 a pop!

[Ranayna]

One observation.  The Phillips panel's power efficiency is pathetic.  It's like an old school monitor of 5-10 years ago.  It runs "hot".  The screen itself is warm to the touch, maybe 35-40*C.

That is something i have noticed with our meeting room setups. Large screens, 65" and larger. Hold your hand to the display and you can feel the heat it radiates, you do not even have to touch it.

[PlainName]

Power draw is around 180W!

That's terrible. Can't remember the exact figure for mine (Iiyama X4372UHSU) but it came out the same as two of the three sceeens it was replacing, so 50-75W. Checking the manual it says "80W typical", so that ties with my memory.

As to the other issues... glad I the Philips was too expensive when I was looking for one

[tom66]

One observation.  The Phillips panel's power efficiency is pathetic.  It's like an old school monitor of 5-10 years ago.  It runs "hot".  The screen itself is warm to the touch, maybe 35-40*C.

That is something i have noticed with our meeting room setups. Large screens, 65" and larger. Hold your hand to the display and you can feel the heat it radiates, you do not even have to touch it.

We have an 80" LCD, 4K, in the boardroom.  So often it gets left switched on showing "no signal" showing pretty pictures of landscapes, according to the datasheet that pulls about 300W in average usage.  So no surprise they're hot to the touch.

[wraper]

Phillips blaming is quite stupid. Basically all TV/monitor manufacturers use more or less the same LCD panels from the same suppliers. So similarly specced monitors and TVs manufactured at similar time will have roughly the same power consumption if settings are similar. It's like taking two 1000W heaters, setting one to 50% power and then blaming one set to 100% for consuming too much power. Also do not forget that LCD with same size can have quite a bit different maximum brightness. So one that is much brighter is capable drawing quite a bit more power too. But complaining about max power due to max brightness is stupid because if you lower the brightness to the level of a less bright panel, it will likely consume less power than that.

[paulca]

Well.  It's not like I am comparing like for like.

The Philips is NOT the same panel type of the Samsung.  Nor it is the same manufacturer.  If I am lead correctly, Samsung make their own panels and TPV make panels for Philips.

The phillips has a multi segmented backlight.  The samsung goes not.  The philips is HDR the samsung is not.

The samsung runs on a 70W DC brick.  The Philips has it's own IEC mains cable.

One runs cool off a 12V car battery, the other heats the room up and brings the fan on 600W inverter!

I don't care if it's made by Philips of ACME, its power usage is excessive in default configuration.

[wraper]

Samsung usually uses their own panels only for high end products. In general more likely you'll find something like BOE or Innolux inside.

[wraper]

BTW Samsung stopped producing usual LCD panels last year, so if it's not quantum dot LCD or OLED, there is no chance to have a Samsung panel inside.

I don't care if it's made by Philips of ACME, its power usage is excessive in default configuration.

Your Samsung likely came with 100% brightness setting by default and you just don't remember that.

[SiliconWizard]

Yeah, even LG uses non-LG panels on some of their lower-end monitors.
I haven't seen a real Samsung panel in a while.

[paulca]

Your Samsung likely came with 100% brightness setting by default and you just don't remember that.

You are correct.  However.  It still is in full 100% brightness with Samsung smart brightness and all the bells and whistles turned on.  It pulls around 30W.

Again, not saying they are like for like.  The Philips is an HDR monitor so has far brighter backlights.  The Philips has sectional backlighting.  If a game opens with a small white logo in the centre a square of backlight bleed can be seen only in the centre.  If that logo is wider than about 30% of the screen then a whole row across the centre can be seen.  I believe it also explains the "contrast" ghosts across the screen.

I'm pretty sure the Samsung has a single standard LED backlight around the edges.

So 43" in SDR mode @4K and 10% brightness = 65W.   

To be honest it looks the same brightness to me.  As I mentioned though, at 10% brightness the color calibration isn't great.  The forum background looks almost pink or rosey coloured.  I partly fixed that by readjusting the Gamma and colour temp, might need more tuning.