I. HATE. KEYSIGHT. SO. MUCH. RIGHT. NOW.

[SiliconWizard]

Go look up how much it costs in parts and labor to replace a headlight in a Bugatti Chiron... It should make you feel better.

Certainly not half the price of a brand new Bugatti Chiron like in this case.

Yeah. When a company quotes a ridiculous price, that's usually because they don't want to do it, but don't want to decline - as that could be even illegal to refuse service. But overcharging is not... really.

[thm_w]

I would try jbweld as suggested, works well for me on plastics. Usual advice: surfaces clean, way to clamp the part in the correct position for 24h, etc. I don't know what you can do about the color though.

https://www.jbweld.com/product/plasticweld-syringe

[Zondar]

You do realize that, for your $7000, you will get back a fully repaired, tested and expertly calibrated unit?

Yes, that's very expensive, but the last time I asked, their minimum, flat-rate charge for any repair on this unit was over $6000 (probably $7k by now, as you have found). I think that's except for strictly calibration-only on a fully functioning unit, but that is frightfully expensive on its own, too. So it's not "$7000 for a piece of plastic!" It's for essentially whatever it takes to restore a repairable unit to proper calibrated operation.

(I do decry the way some companies are shutting out the little guy, and I've bought my last item from them and others like them too.)

[vk6zgo]

White is the color of innocence. This is why all new KS products are black.

Before the lawyers took over the steering wheel KS was excellent in regard of poor Hobbist support.

That was a F U price.

As I stated before and I know KS is reading this:

I will treat you at work in the same way you treat me at home. I just bought Tek scopes in the company I work.

This is what the "suits" in such companies don't understand
The "impoverished hobbyist" that you treat like dirt may well be, in their daytime job, the person with the say on who a large organisation buys their equipment from.

[Monkeh]

So it's not "$7000 for a piece of plastic!" It's for essentially whatever it takes to restore a repairable unit to proper calibrated operation.

Yes, it is $7000 for a piece of plastic - because that is the only thing he is asking for.

[wraper]

You do realize that, for your $7000, you will get back a fully repaired, tested and expertly calibrated unit?

Yes, that's very expensive, but the last time I asked, their minimum, flat-rate charge for any repair on this unit was over $6000 (probably $7k by now, as you have found). I think that's except for strictly calibration-only on a fully functioning unit, but that is frightfully expensive on its own, too. So it's not "$7000 for a piece of plastic!" It's for essentially whatever it takes to restore a repairable unit to proper calibrated operation.

(I do decry the way some companies are shutting out the little guy, and I've bought my last item from them and others like them too.)

This pricing is total bullshit because it's half the price of a brand new unit. If it was say $150 multimeter, half the price would be fine because labor is not free, at this price point it must be repaired by CEO himself to explain hourly labor rate. Not to say he needs a plastic bezel held by 4 screws, not repair.

[Analog Kid]

I would try jbweld as suggested, works well for me on plastics.

Small note: no, just epoxy, not JB Weld.
JB is epoxy with other stuff mixed in (metal powder?) which doesn't increase its adhesion at all and maybe marginally increases its strength, which isn't an issue here (you're repairing plastic, not metal).

[thm_w]

I would try jbweld as suggested, works well for me on plastics.

Small note: no, just epoxy, not JB Weld.
JB is epoxy with other stuff mixed in (metal powder?) which doesn't increase its adhesion at all and maybe marginally increases its strength, which isn't an issue here (you're repairing plastic, not metal).

Click on the link.
https://www.jbweld.com/product/plasticweld-syringe

[Analog Kid]

I would try jbweld as suggested, works well for me on plastics.

Small note: no, just epoxy, not JB Weld.
JB is epoxy with other stuff mixed in (metal powder?) which doesn't increase its adhesion at all and maybe marginally increases its strength, which isn't an issue here (you're repairing plastic, not metal).

Click on the link.
https://www.jbweld.com/product/plasticweld-syringe

So? What am I supposed to take away from that?
Looks like a lot of marketing info.
I'm not saying it's bad stuff, but I think just plain epoxy is actually better in most cases.

[jheissjr]

Grey JB weld is for metal. It's a metal epoxy. I have experience with plastic epoxy and it's not that strong. Even super glue cyanoacrylate is more often stronger than plastic epoxy from my testing. Plastic welding is stronger than plastic epoxy and super glue. It's done with a discarded iron tip by melting and mushing the plastic together. My suggestion is to weld it.

[Analog Kid]

Grey JB weld is for metal. It's a metal epoxy. I have experience with plastic epoxy and it's not that strong. Even super glue cyanoacrylate is more often stronger than plastic epoxy from my testing. Plastic welding is stronger than plastic epoxy and super glue. It's done with an old iron tip by melting and mushing the plastic together. My suggestion is to weld it.

What's this "plastic epoxy"? I'm talking about just regular old epoxy, not plastic.
It does work on all plastics that I've used it on.

Plastic welding might be a good way to go, if you can de-uglify it after melting it together.

[wraper]

If it's made of ABS, you need solvent to fix it, not glue.

What's this "plastic epoxy"? I'm talking about just regular old epoxy, not plastic.
It does work on all plastics that I've used it on.

Epoxy is among the worst glues to fix cracks in plastics. Especially if pieces fit tightly.

[booscrawl]

Just design a replacement rear bracket in OnShape and order it through SendCutSend. It should be... maybe $200?

[neverendingstudent]

Just design a replacement rear bracket in OnShape and order it through SendCutSend. It should be... maybe $200?

I had not even thought of that possibility.  Definitely more economical than buying a printer... IF I get the model perfectly correct the first time.

[mawyatt]

Just design a replacement rear bracket in OnShape and order it through SendCutSend. It should be... maybe $200?

I had not even thought of that possibility.  Definitely more economical than buying a printer... IF I get the model perfectly correct the first time.

Consider designing a replacement rear bracket that is in two or more pieces, it doesn't have to be exactly like the OEM bracket. This could fit in a smaller type 3D printer and gives a reason, excuse, necessity, requirement for a 3D printer 

Best

[andy2000]

If it's made of ABS plastic, I wold use a solvent welding adhesive designed specifically for ABS.  If all goes well it will be almost invisible, and very strong.  I've had good results using plumbing adhesive rated for ABS, or Weld-On #3 acrylic adhesive.  These will only work if no other adhesives have been used on the crack.

It is a shame to hear how unfriendly Keysight is.  The last time I ordered some parts from Agilent (before the spinoff) they couldn't have been more friendly, and the prices were reasonable.  I just ordered on the web site, which showed price and availability. 

[TUMEMBER]

If it's made of ABS, you need solvent to fix it, not glue.

What's this "plastic epoxy"? I'm talking about just regular old epoxy, not plastic.
It does work on all plastics that I've used it on.

Epoxy is among the worst glues to fix cracks in plastics. Especially if pieces fit tightly.

First, you need to identify the type of "plastic": ABS, polypropylene, polyamide, etc. Each has different properties and should be glued differently and DIFFERENTLY. Some of them cannot be glued without etching the bonded area, so you need to pre-treat the area with PRIMER. Only then will the cyanoacrylate glue "penetrate into the recesses" and hold; otherwise, it will "glass" and quickly "pop" under slight stress.
If this type of plastic is susceptible to MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) drops, it's a form of ABS. Without primer, it's impossible to assume it will bond well, even with two-component resin. The resin may be stronger than the material being bonded, but the bond will hold edges poorly.
Test it from the inside, invisible side, with a drop of acetone to see if the area becomes "wrinkled" or permanently dull after evaporation.

[squadchannel]

I always use methylene chloride(dichloromethane), sold in Japan as an acrylic adhesive. it can weld together most plastics.
I use it more often than epoxy.

but it may be difficult to obtain in some countries.

[coppercone2]

Ok here is the deal with hard to bond plastic epoxy (smells like wintergreens and is expensive). DP8810


It works good. You need a 10:1 mixer gun for it.

But the thing is, it only cures in thin bond lines. It will not gap fill. I thought the guy was selling me tooth paste. It will cure in a thin bond line (0.005 inch or so) deep in a part, within 4 minutes. If you try to do any gap-filling with it, you will get a mediocre cure after... 7 to 21 days with little strength. I had hardly congeled paste on the outside (squeeze out) 7 days later, but the part (this being a part with a bore) was good within like 12 hours.

Normal epoxy does not like to bond to certain plastics, but it will gap fill. The good plastic bonder will not gap fill.

It depends on the nature of the damage.

You use this glue if you find normal epoxy does not hold, i.e. I glued delerin to brass to make a new blow torch knob. If its a true crack (i.e. comes together looking like the original part) I think the acrylic epoxy will work well, particularly if you have tight fitting tie rods that you add in. But keep in mind tensile strenght, epoxy  is no better then 4000 PSI. For weird extrusions, you might not get the strenght you need even with a good bond without reinforcements. Lead solder will do 9000 PSI+ (if you think its 'weak')


The welding solvents if you can use them , are stronger, because it 'welds'. But I had abysmal success with them, I find them hard to use. I hate plastic welding. The welding pastes are easier to use, and i  don't know if you get the full strength of the solvent weld (i.e. weldon #16). A thin welder like weldon #4 needs really good fit up and 48 hours fixturing

[wraper]

Ok here is the deal with hard to bond plastic epoxy (smells like wintergreens and is expensive). DP8810

It's not epoxy.

[coppercone2]

comes in a epoxy 2 part tube from a epoxy manufacturer many people call it epoxy

[wraper]

comes in a epoxy 2 part tube from a epoxy manufacturer many people call it epoxy

3M website outright says it's an acrylic adhesive. Calling it epoxy is either clueless or dumb. It's like saying that superglue and PVA are the same thing because both of them are single component adhesives.

[Fraser]

When repairing cracked plastics I always try to add strength to the repair using a repair patch or metal rods/bars on the unseen side of the plastic. I have used ABS plasticard (modelling supplies), Aluminium rod/plate and brass rods/plate as mechanical reinforcement across a crack. You choose the best mechanical reinforcement material to suit the situation. Even glass fibre mat material or carbon fibre mat could be used. The reinforcement increases the strength of the repair when using suitable adhesives. I plastic weld using a solvent so ABS plasticard is well suited to making repair patches as it bonds well to the ABS  surface being repaired. I tend to embed metal reinforcement in epoxy based repairs and have yet to have a failure in this approach. With plastics, surface preparation is important as you need to provide a good ‘key’ for epoxy and all oils from the plastic etc need to be removed (plastic excretes oils and other stuff over its life). Surfaces to which a patch is to be applied should be ‘roughened’ with a dremel tool of sand paper.

Fraser

[free_electron]

There's other machines in that housing. If memory serves right there is a relay multiplexer 3499a i believe that has the same enclosure. Scrunge one of those on ebay , or see if you can buy a "spare" for that machine. may be a lot cheaper.

[mikeselectricstuff]

Just design a replacement rear bracket in OnShape and order it through SendCutSend. It should be... maybe $200?

I had not even thought of that possibility.  Definitely more economical than buying a printer... IF I get the model perfectly correct the first time.

or JLC/PCbway's 3D printing services