I have a 20 YO Kenmore and a 2 YO Haier fridge. Guess which one just crapped out

[JoeN]

The prize for a correct guess is a hearty handshake, a pat on the back, and the warm glow of victory.  Do not peek below otherwise you will encounter a spoiler.

Symptoms:  Every 5 minutes I hear a click (probably a relay?), 8 seconds later it clicks again.  That attracted my attention.  Opening it up, all the melted frost was a giveaway something is wrong.  Everything is still cold, though, I caught it fast enough.  So all my goodies go into the Kenmore.  I guess the compressor is not coming on.  Will troubleshoot tomorrow.

Positive development:  Now with everything out and a wet interior, the fridge is clean and frost-free for the first time in two years.

[japasetelagoas]

Thumbs up for old Kenmore appliances. I've been making sandwiches for the last 25 years on their sandwich maker, never had to be repaired, the thing just works.

[amyk]

I don't know how the newer ones are designed but in older models this is probably due to a bad start relay.

[tszaboo]

There are a lot of Made in CCCP washing machines and fridges still working from where I'm from. There is nothing strange bout it, it was before planned obsolescence was a thing. My parents have a Samsung microwave oven working fine for 25 years now. Try that with any new samsung stuff. 

[Photon939]

Most fridges aren't that smart,  you're likely hearing the bimetal overload switch tripping from a stalled compressor motor.

If it has a run capacitor check that first, then the starting PTC or relay.

[madires]

There are a lot of Made in CCCP washing machines and fridges still working from where I'm from. There is nothing strange bout it, it was before planned obsolescence was a thing. My parents have a Samsung microwave oven working fine for 25 years now. Try that with any new samsung stuff. 

In former East Germany factories were ordered to build fridges and other home appliances that last 25 years at least. Another interesting tidbit is that Narva produced an incandescent lamp outlasting the common 1000h lamps several times (IIRC 5000h). But no retailer ouside the Eastern Bloc wanted to sell them.

[NiHaoMike]

I'm going to suspect the cheap "solid state" starter which is actually just a PTC. Try replacing it with a "3 in 1" that has a proper start cap - about $15 or so from a HVAC supply store. If it has a run cap, test it and replace with one of a higher voltage rating if needed. I have also read about adding a run cap if there isn't already one - 10uF is a good starting point but measurement is required to determine if it's helpful.

[CatalinaWOW]

Twenty years ago people were moaning about the reliability of the then new refrigerators compared to "the good old days".

One thing that is going on is that refrigerators like anything else usually have a bathtub reliability curve.  An initial high failure rate due to random problems in the parts and assembly.  Then a low and steady failure rate during most of the life.  And finally a rapidly increasing failure rate as things actually wear out.

After twenty years we have forgotten all of the refrigerators that failed early and just see and remember the ones that are still ticking along.

[Tomorokoshi]

A refrigerator is really about the same as a dehumidifier. One problem I've found with dehumidifiers built over the last 20 years or so is they tend to lose refrigerant after a while, and fail in a mode similar to what was described. Without enough refrigerant, the pressure switch will shut down the compressor.

The construction method in the dehumidifiers that seems to lead to them leaking is galvanic corrosion that happens on the evaporator coil. The ones I have seen fail have copper loops, with aluminum fins, secured to the framework by galvanized steel supports. The corrosion seems to happen at either the entry point on the top from the compressor where the coil is coldest or on the bottom where it's in contact with water well after the machine turned off.

[joseph nicholas]

In my GE fridge it has a ceramic like disk inside the relay thing attached to the compressor.  I can be removed but I couldn't find a replacement for the disk.  There is also a fuse (I think) which appears to be attached to the ground prong on the inpute.  These relays come in different amp ratings had have different size blade which mechanically prevents you from installing a relay for a compressor of higher amperage. 

These is not much else which would trip this relay except for a compressor overheating and drawing too much power, but if I were you I would remove the relay and hot wire the ac directly to the compressor to see if it blows your circuit breaker or house fuse.  If it does replace the compressor or check your warrenty.  2 years seems rediculous for a compressor.

Hope this helps.

[langwadt]

Twenty years ago people were moaning about the reliability of the then new refrigerators compared to "the good old days".

One thing that is going on is that refrigerators like anything else usually have a bathtub reliability curve.  An initial high failure rate due to random problems in the parts and assembly.  Then a low and steady failure rate during most of the life.  And finally a rapidly increasing failure rate as things actually wear out.

After twenty years we have forgotten all of the refrigerators that failed early and just see and remember the ones that are still ticking along.

a twenty year old refrigerator uses so much more power than a modern one that it should have been replaced by now

[rsjsouza]

Twenty years ago people were moaning about the reliability of the then new refrigerators compared to "the good old days".

One thing that is going on is that refrigerators like anything else usually have a bathtub reliability curve.  An initial high failure rate due to random problems in the parts and assembly.  Then a low and steady failure rate during most of the life.  And finally a rapidly increasing failure rate as things actually wear out.

After twenty years we have forgotten all of the refrigerators that failed early and just see and remember the ones that are still ticking along.

Exactly. I have a 10 year old GE Arctica and a 3 year old Whirlpool freezer. After I bought the GE, I got several people talking about how GE was crap and I should have gone for LG, Samsung, Whirlpool, etc. At about the 5 year mark the GE had two electrolytic caps failed but otherwise it has been working just fine. I could also see the build quality was quite good. 
The Whirlpool had rave reviews but it showed severe frosting issues immediately after the warranty had expired. I fixed it after replacing the defrost resistor and then the defrost timer (two issues). The build quality made me weep. 

[CatalinaWOW]

a twenty year old refrigerator uses so much more power than a modern one that it should have been replaced by now

There is a lot of truth in that.  Of course that twenty year old refrigerator is already much more efficient than the now forty year old one it replaced.  And may have some operational weaknesses because of the changes made for efficiency.  For example the exterior volume will be larger due to the extra insulation that has been added.

I have a thirty year old freezer that is working fine.  I have figured out that the payback on energy costs would be about four years if I replaced it with one that is as efficient as current freezers.  But the old one is still chugging along for a variety of reasons.

[Bryan]

I noticed on my new fridge they put the condenser coils or is it evaporator coils, never can remember; on the side panels as opposed to the back of the fridge.