General > General Technical Chat
I thought LED lights were efficient?
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james_s:
If you buy quality bulbs they are pretty reliable. I have lots of LED bulbs that are >10 years old, the one in the porch light by my front door was installed in 2011, runs dusk till dawn and still looks like new. I have a bunch of Philips Hue bulbs too, both white and RGB varieties and I've yet to have one of those fail.
Northy:
I've ordered a couple of the V-Tak 40W LED battens today, when they come I'll see if they'll open up easily to see how they are driven. I've seen Big Clive on YouTube turning down LED bulbs to greatly improve their life.

Thanks,

G
cdev:

--- Quote from: james_s on April 08, 2022, 07:51:33 pm ---If you buy quality bulbs they are pretty reliable. I have lots of LED bulbs that are >10 years old, the one in the porch light by my front door was installed in 2011, runs dusk till dawn and still looks like new. I have a bunch of Philips Hue bulbs too, both white and RGB varieties and I've yet to have one of those fail.

--- End quote ---


How do they do in cold weather. When its cold, it seems some LED lamps struggle to stay lit. CFLS are even worse.

I've never read about this.
james_s:

--- Quote from: cdev on April 09, 2022, 12:37:10 am ---How do they do in cold weather. When its cold, it seems some LED lamps struggle to stay lit. CFLS are even worse.

I've never read about this.

--- End quote ---

LEDs love the cold, I've never heard of one having trouble in cold weather. Certainly none of mine have ever caused me problems, the coldest I've ever seen it get here since installing the LEDs was about 12F and they were perfectly fine in that.
PushUp:
Just as an add-on to a message I wrote - this is my main equipment, together with a small saw not in the picture:






As for checking/repairing a dead SMD LED, you immediately spot the black dot:






My HMC8012 and Gossen Metrawatt do use > 6V in diode mode, so that I am able to test each SMD LED. Of course I don't see the voltage drop, but the DMM is able to light up any SMD LED, which neither my Fluke 289, nor my Keysight U1273A is able to do so.






If you wanna have it a bit easier, you may wanna invest in a ZEN50 from Atlas Peak, which shows the voltage drop of around 7.2V at 2mA or a little bit more at 10mA and so on.

You can shorten this procedure with the ZEN50, when only testing the (most likely) one dead SMD LED and all other start flickering immediately, so that you know, that you are on the right track!






That's it. Cheers!   :)
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