Surprised that 3M part is rated 7 to 15A. Its basically a vampire tap, which are not known to be terribly reliable.
No they’re not. They work like punchdown blocks (but with the movement in reverse): a v-shaped blade that slices the insulation and clamps down on the conductor. This is a very reliable connection.
IDC is a broad term that covers many different contact geometries. Most are the punchdown type. Others just stab little teeth into the wire. Either way, though, IDC is widely used and certainly isn’t considered unreliable.
Yes, crimp is great for stranded wire. But what about solid/solid and solid/stranded wire connections?
In my experience, crimp on heavy gauge solid is not very reliable, at least using ordinary crimpers. Even smaller gauge (e.g., 22 awg) is prone to loosen.
Crimping is always a precision operation, and whether solid or stranded, the contact, wire, and tool must all be matched. Anecdotally, I’d say that the vast majority of crimp systems are designed for stranded wire exclusively, but some do work with both. It’s no problem at all with circular indent crimping (the military/aerospace type).
One issue with solid wire and crimping is stripping precision: if a strand is nicked during stripping, on stranded wire it doesn’t cause catastrophic damage: future flexing may break the one nicked strand, but the others will be fine. With solid wire, a nick leaves the only strand weakened, and the crimping process may exacerbate the damage.
Ultimately, again anecdotally, practically all of the crimped solid wire I’ve seen is to specialty wire that can’t be soldered, like nichrome wire in heating appliances.