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Junctioning 32A cooker circuit with a 13A spur.

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themadhippy:

--- Quote ---At the point is drops to 13A the fuse needs to be present between the 32A circuit and the 13A one.  I don't find junction boxes with fuses, so that only leaves the 2 way consumer unit with 2 fused outputs the "best" option
--- End quote ---
The only time you need to fuse down is when the current carrying capacity of the circuit  is reduced,and thats exactly what the fused spur is doing,the point were the circuit splits into 2 doesn't need protecting if the junction box and cables are rated for whatever size fuse if feeding them

--- Quote ---I can just run the hob off the plug socket for the dishwasher and a double extension
--- End quote ---
best stock up on double extension leads and 13A fuses

paulca:

--- Quote from: themadhippy on February 10, 2022, 12:09:01 pm ---
--- Quote ---At the point is drops to 13A the fuse needs to be present between the 32A circuit and the 13A one.  I don't find junction boxes with fuses, so that only leaves the 2 way consumer unit with 2 fused outputs the "best" option
--- End quote ---
The only time you need to fuse down is when the current carrying capacity of the circuit  is reduced,and thats exactly what the fused spur is doing,the point were the circuit splits into 2 doesn't need protecting if the junction box and cables are rated for whatever size fuse if feeding them

--- Quote ---I can just run the hob off the plug socket for the dishwasher and a double extension
--- End quote ---
best stock up on double extension leads and 13A fuses

--- End quote ---

Yes, the feeding circuit is 32A on 6mm cable.  You mention that the point at which the cable splits does not need protecting as long as the cables it splits into being capable of carrying the full feed circuit current. A fused spur would need to be fed with the 6mm cable then.  That still involves trying to spur, split or junction the 6mm cable. 

The old hob had a junction box on it, using brass bus clips to join the incoming 6mm to an outgoing 13Amp flex to the over, ironically the previous OVEN was 13A.  No fuse.  In fact their bus contacts where so cheap and flimsy there was evidence of burning and high heat around the live connections.

On the dishwasher extension... the new hob is gas.  It only has a mains plug for purposes of running the spark ignitors.  That' can't be more than 1 watt instantaneous load?

paulca:
So we have established various options with different amounts of "correctness".

My plan now is to wait on the oven arriving and if it happens to have a junction box for the 6mm and implies I can link the hob to it, then that is what I will do.

If the oven has no provision to share it's junction box with the hob, I will wire the hob to the dishwasher spur "for now"... "permanently temporarily" with the aim to fix it up properly later.

themadhippy:

--- Quote --- junction the 6mm cable
--- End quote ---
yes

--- Quote ---I will wire the hob to the dishwasher spur "for now"
--- End quote ---
whip the spur off  and fit a double socket,job done, or  fit another spur beside the existing,if the existing is flush you could use a surface dual accessory box fit the existing spur oneside and the new spur/single socket on the other

dmills:
I think you are over thinking this.

A standard UK ring circuit (It is a weird UK thing for the non UK crowd) is typically fed by a 32A breaker, and nobody worries about a 2.5mm spur to a single socket.
Seems to me that the 6mm 32A line to the oven switch with a short 2.5mm spur to a socket (or more usefully, a switched fused spur for the igniters) is very much equivalent and should be just fine.

Or just change the breaker to a 16A one at the DB and call it good, I don't see the issue. 

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