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Junctioning 32A cooker circuit with a 13A spur.
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paulca:
As a complete aside, not electrical related at all, but quite frankly the most scary part of this whole cooker swap over.....

The original plumber who installed the hob, didn't test it, wasn't "Gas SAFE" certified and just an "odd jobs" man who does a bit of plumbing. 

IT LEAKED!  FOR A WEEK!  Half a bottle of gas gone down into the under floor cavity of the house.... while I slept, while I played with my daughter.  There are SOME benefits to still having the underfloor breather vents for the (now removed) coal fire.  Even though they cause annoying drafts in winter.

I occasionally smelt gas, particularly when pulling the old oven out to inspect the wiring I had to do, but figured it was just because I'd used it recently and any "spilt" gas while lighting it, would collect in there.

I became more suspicious when, as a random impulse put my nose on the floor of the kitchen first thing in the morning when the cooker had been out of use for 12 hours.  I caught a few whiffs of propane, decided to turn the bottle off and wait 15 minutes and check with my nose again.  No gas smell!!!

So I pulled the oven out, turned the gas bottle on again and sprayed the gas pipe with kitchen cleaner spray.  It immediately fizzed and bubbled angrily.  I turned it back off.  I "weighed" the bottle in my hands and swung it around, it has got liquid propane in there still, but maybe only half a bottle.

Called another plumber out.  He asked why I don't get the previous guy out to fix his work.  I replied, "with a gas leak, you only get one strike.  I don't want him to fix it."

Looking at the joint, I seen unburnt flux, not just uncleaned flux, but unburnt flux and you could feel with your finger nail part of the joiner collar was not flowed with solder at all.  Additionally there was a drop of oil dripping off the pipe (before I had used the spray).  I figure this was machine oil impurity in the gas from the compressor that had been collecting over half a bottle of leaking through a tiny hole.

I did for about 5 seconds consider fixing it myself.  However, I knew none of my irons stood a chance against a cooper pipe and I doubt the heat gun on max would be capable either, besides, I only have leaded solder.    Anyway, the slap around the back of the head came internally rather rapidly with "IT IS GAS, NO!  GET PROFESSIONAL!".  Wiring, fine, careful, paranoid, planned, thought out and implemented cleanly and tested.  Fine.  Gas, no.  Just no.
paulca:
The chance of the house going "BOOOM!" was relatively remote.  What was NOT remote however would have been any spark in that oven cavity under the hob.  I had left everything disconnected and I am thankful for that now.  If I had wired the old oven back up, powered it and the relay clicked and arced while the hob was filling the oven with gas...  the leak had enough flow to become a right flame thrower, spreading through the undercounter cupboards trying to find ways up and out.
SteveyG:

--- Quote from: paulca on February 17, 2022, 09:27:02 am ---In Europe the cooker point is most likely a single 2.5mm 16 Amp spur circuit.  Possibly with a larger circuit for the hob additionally.  It could be a 30A circuit that is split into 2x16A circuits locally to the device, but... 16A isn't enough to run a 6kW hob.

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Technically, a 16A supply is fine for a cooking appliance up to 6.5 kW. Bear in mind Table 6.2 in the regs that allow for diversity to be applied to certain types of load ;)
Lectro:

--- Quote from: themadhippy on February 09, 2022, 03:46:36 pm ---
--- Quote ---Second problem is I would need to cut the single tall vertical box out and replace it with a double box,
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or use a contactum X1457


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I've been looking for one of these for ages, but I can't find them anywhere.
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